All Discussions Tagged 'Crack' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T19:52:59Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Crack&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHeel Crack: Reinforce or Glue Only?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2023-01-19:2177249:Topic:2878562023-01-19T18:55:01.271ZMarkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Mark793
<p>Hi</p>
<p></p>
<p>Inexpensive classical guitar with a heel crack.</p>
<p>Trying to decide whether to just work some titebond in and clamp it, or follow that up with a hardwood dowel (stepped/Miller dowel? straight with a longtitudinal groove for air evacuation?) or steel threaded device (screw?, long allen bolt? cap head screw) that spans the crack in the heel...</p>
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<p>Some online advice is just to glue, but wanted to gather any intel I could find here before proeeding (already have…</p>
<p>Hi</p>
<p></p>
<p>Inexpensive classical guitar with a heel crack.</p>
<p>Trying to decide whether to just work some titebond in and clamp it, or follow that up with a hardwood dowel (stepped/Miller dowel? straight with a longtitudinal groove for air evacuation?) or steel threaded device (screw?, long allen bolt? cap head screw) that spans the crack in the heel...</p>
<p></p>
<p>Some online advice is just to glue, but wanted to gather any intel I could find here before proeeding (already have the cap off).</p>
<p></p>
<p>Does leaving maximum wooden side grain surface along the glue joint have more benefit than putting a wooden or threaded steel rod inside the heel spanning the crack?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks!!</p>
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<p></p> Tricky Crack Diagnosis Issuetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-10-09:2177249:Topic:2012722020-10-09T16:00:36.899ZDave Domizihttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
<p><span>Hi,</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>My name is Dave Domizi and I run The Fret Shop in Athens, GA. I hope that you’re all well.</span></p>
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<p><span>I’m writing to ask for any experienced ideas that you might have for sorting out a trickier crack diagnosis issue (finish crack vs wood crack) that came to me today. The guitar is a 1967 Gibson Hummingbird that has had various owners and is changing hands again from a previous customer of mine to a reseller as part of a…</span></p>
<p><span>Hi,</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>My name is Dave Domizi and I run The Fret Shop in Athens, GA. I hope that you’re all well.</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>I’m writing to ask for any experienced ideas that you might have for sorting out a trickier crack diagnosis issue (finish crack vs wood crack) that came to me today. The guitar is a 1967 Gibson Hummingbird that has had various owners and is changing hands again from a previous customer of mine to a reseller as part of a trade.</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span><strong>ISSUE:</strong> The back of the neck has a roughly 6” long, tight crack that starts about 1/4” inside of the high-E tuner plate and runs somewhat diagonally across to the bass side/down the neck toward the body across the V-carve transition area behind the nut, ending roughly 3/4” from the binding/edge of the neck, roughly 3” past the nut. This is a strange one - not a traditional headstock break, maybe not a break at all. Rather it may simply be a finish crack, or it could be a stress crack in the wood, possibly from the internal truss rod hardware. The guitar hasn’t been abused or suffered any obvious hits/dings on the neck, and it has been stored in proper climate.<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></p>
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<p><span>Under mild magnification, the crack does not show any visible signs (larger dark shadow line) that it is open/deep, and light pressure grabbing and gently flexing the headstock did not appear to change this, ie - it doesn’t appear to move under light force. I wouldn’t want to apply heavier force out of concern that it could cause further damage, even if only aesthetic. I suppose it’s possible that 53 years of internal force from the truss rod/anchor could cause such a crack in the wood, but there is no significant doming/bubbling/spreading open of the crack to indicate this definitively.</span></p>
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<p><span><strong>QUESTION:</strong> Are there any additional techniques or equipment that should be considered (x-ray, MRI, dry ultrasound, high powered magnification, etc) that might help to determine the actual nature and depth of such a crack? The involved parties need a definitive diagnosis to aid in the deal & reselling process, and I am unfamiliar with how porous wood grain/wood filler/finish/etc would behave under these techniques, and whether it’s even possible to achieve this goal.</span></p>
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<p><span>I’m very grateful for your time and any thoughts and info that you might have. Stay healthy & well.</span></p>
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<p><span>Thank You,</span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span>Dave</span></p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Identifying Cracks # 1tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-03-19:2177249:Topic:1292112014-03-19T04:23:50.430ZJoshua Diazhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JoshuaDiaz
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952367?profile=original" target="_self"></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952507?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952507?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"></img></a> What kind of crack is this? By the way, this is a Breedlove AD25/SR with a Solid Sitka spruce top.</p>
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<p>I found a similar crack on Frets.com. Are they similar cracks?</p>
<p><img align="bottom" border="0" height="267" src="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenMaint/CrackID/CrackIDViews/1887cracks.JPG" width="360"></img></p>
<p></p>
<p>It says the following:</p>
<p><font size="4">They are…</font></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952367?profile=original" target="_self"></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952507?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952507?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024"/></a>What kind of crack is this? By the way, this is a Breedlove AD25/SR with a Solid Sitka spruce top.</p>
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<p>I found a similar crack on Frets.com. Are they similar cracks?</p>
<p><img width="360" height="267" align="bottom" src="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Musician/GenMaint/CrackID/CrackIDViews/1887cracks.JPG" border="0"/></p>
<p></p>
<p>It says the following:</p>
<p><font size="4">They are structural cracks, but will not affect the longevity of the guitar even if they are left wide open and not repaired at all. Spruce has very little strength across the grain, and the pull of the strings is never in that direction. So, lengthwise cracks have little effect on strength in this area, where the only force is with the grain. The wide bridge (now off the guitar) distributes the load across six inches of the spruce, so it's able to handle the tension very well.</font></p>
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<p><font size="4">Thanks</font></p>
<p><font size="4">Joshua</font></p>
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<p></p> Neck Heel Crack Repairtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-17:2177249:Topic:571772011-05-17T14:58:33.327ZDave Domizihttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
Hi All,<br />
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks for taking the time to offer some help and advice with a structural repair on an electric neck joint.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a 70’s Gibson ES 325 in the shop that came in with a neck solidly pulled out of set/gap at the back of the neck heel. It was frozen solid like this and may have been for years, as the guitar had been in a closet for a long time. The neck shows heavy finish checking/cracking around the neck joint, and long finish checking cracks running…</p>
Hi All,<br />
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks for taking the time to offer some help and advice with a structural repair on an electric neck joint.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a 70’s Gibson ES 325 in the shop that came in with a neck solidly pulled out of set/gap at the back of the neck heel. It was frozen solid like this and may have been for years, as the guitar had been in a closet for a long time. The neck shows heavy finish checking/cracking around the neck joint, and long finish checking cracks running lengthwise on much of the neck, though it’s only severe around the last 8” or so by the joint. Despite the appearance of the neck joint having been broken, I was unable to get the joint to move at all by pulling the neck around, or by applying some clamping pressure, so it seemed really locked in its position.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I steamed out the joint, which I now believe may have been a terrible mistake. As the joint got close to soft/loose, the steam revealed and pushed out of a long crack 6-7” that ran from the joint up the back of the neck. This caused the smaller outer section of the break on the outside back of the neck to swell/twist, and it is now sprung and very resistant to clamping. I can get a good bit of the crack closed by clamping, but not all, and the dry clamping has slightly compressed the out heel area already. I worry that the sprung/twisted nature of the break will make it difficult or impossible to glue solidly.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I need advice as to:</p>
<p>- Should this crack be glued and clamped as is, and then the remaining gap filled? If so, what kind of glue and procedure would be best, given the sprung nature of the break?</p>
<p>- Are their better, more proper repair procedures for this type of crack? I've thought of some possibilities, but they seem REALLY undesirable. Should the split be routed out and the wood replaced? Should install and then inlay over/hide a large wood screw through the heel to hold the area together as solidly as possible? It strikes me that these other less desirable options would also include some tough refinishing work that may be beyond my ability.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>So, I really need some expert advice. I may be out of my league here, so I’m also interested in finding out for the customer if another expert shop could take in this job and, if so, what would be involved and how much it might cost the customer. I can be reached by email and by phone at 706-549-1567. If you miss me, please try to leave a number that I can use to call you back.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Many thanks for any help and advice. Have a great week!</p>
<p> </p>
Dave What to use to fill cracks in a newer Martin 00016-GTE?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-11-30:2177249:Topic:476352010-11-30T02:58:51.269ZJeff Perkinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JeffPerkins
I've repaired a side crack in a Martin 00016-GTE, structurally. What would you guys use to fill in the crack? I've already sealed it with shellac. Should I use nitro or CA and scrape? Any help would be appreciated. I'm afraid of sanding or scraping through the finish. It's the satin finish.<div><br/></div>
<div><br/></div>
I've repaired a side crack in a Martin 00016-GTE, structurally. What would you guys use to fill in the crack? I've already sealed it with shellac. Should I use nitro or CA and scrape? Any help would be appreciated. I'm afraid of sanding or scraping through the finish. It's the satin finish.<div><br/></div>
<div><br/></div>