All Discussions Tagged 'Guild' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T13:59:53Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Guild&feed=yes&xn_auth=noGuild B50 Intonation Fix - Ebony Saddle Insertstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-25:2177249:Topic:1450092015-03-25T23:55:18.723ZBen Williamshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BenWilliams
<p>Well, being brand-new here I thought I'd contribute some content before picking y'all's brains about other stuff.</p>
<p>One of the most prized basses in my collection is a 1979 Guild B50 NT, a really big-bodied acoustic bass guitar with a really big sound to match. The only problem with it was the intonation in the E and A strings, which has always bothered me, but wasn't bad enough until recently to do something about.</p>
<p>This bass has a two-piece saddle in the bridge that has some…</p>
<p>Well, being brand-new here I thought I'd contribute some content before picking y'all's brains about other stuff.</p>
<p>One of the most prized basses in my collection is a 1979 Guild B50 NT, a really big-bodied acoustic bass guitar with a really big sound to match. The only problem with it was the intonation in the E and A strings, which has always bothered me, but wasn't bad enough until recently to do something about.</p>
<p>This bass has a two-piece saddle in the bridge that has some compensation for the intonation, and in the lower registers (up to the 5th fret or so) it's never been bad enough to bother me much. But I've recently been working on a tune I want to record, that involves some chord melody-style playing way up high on the neck, for which it was just painfully out of tune. Unfortunately, the saddle under the E and A strings was too far flat to play anything past the 5th fret in tune enough to use. In fact, had this been an adjustable saddle, my guess was that I'd need to move the saddles forward a full 1/8" or more to get them in tune.<br/> <br/> Since I *really* did not want to do the traditional fill&rout routine to cut a new saddle slot, instead I made an ebony insert that fits in the original saddle slot, and extends the last point of contact forward about 3/16", figuring I'd be able to just trim the face back until the intonation came true. As it turned out, 3/16" was about dead-on for correcting the intonation, and now it's playing beautifully in tune all the way up the neck beyond the 12th fret. To me, this was vastly easier than the fill&rout routine, totally non-invasive, and had zero effect on the awesome tone of this bass.</p>
<p>I still have about 7" of the milled ebony insert stock left if anybody wants a piece to correct the intonation on another Guild B50. As both of the original saddles had collapsed anyway, I had to also make a new bone D-G saddle to match the ebony insert, that I dyed black as best I could with leather dye. Any suggestions how I could get that D-G bone saddle stained really black?</p> Problem with previous repair of Guild F-20tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-03-29:2177249:Topic:1066122013-03-29T03:40:36.911ZJohn Cartwrighthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>Well, I officially have my first "job" by a customer who is not a close friend or relative. Look out now, I'm makin' waves! Ha! Anyway, the repair was pretty straight forward, reglue shrunken plastic veneer on the peghead, reglue pickguard, light fret dressing and so forth. All went very well, until I needed to deal with stringing it up. </p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">You see, the previous repair was done, according to the owner, by a violin repairman years ago…</span></p>
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>Well, I officially have my first "job" by a customer who is not a close friend or relative. Look out now, I'm makin' waves! Ha! Anyway, the repair was pretty straight forward, reglue shrunken plastic veneer on the peghead, reglue pickguard, light fret dressing and so forth. All went very well, until I needed to deal with stringing it up. </p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">You see, the previous repair was done, according to the owner, by a violin repairman years ago when the customer's father had the guitar. The previous repair was an odd variation of JLD Bridge System <br/><a href="http://www.jldguitar.net/warped_tops/fixtop.html">http://www.jldguitar.net/warped_tops/fixtop.html</a> but uses a piece of pine cut to a parallelogram mounted to the original bridge-plate with a steel bolt running through it to the end-block. This puts the pin hole openings at an odd slant with little wood to hold the strings solidly and they already have tear-out. I glued a piece of hard wood just above the pin-holes to *hopefully* give the strings something harder and more stable to rest against. However, the string balls still won't sit properly and when you tune certain strings to pitch it forces the bridge pins out forcefully! Please see the picture and the diagram I drew to get an idea of what I'm dealing with. ANY help and suggestions would be so GREATLY appreciate! </span></p>
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<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">Many thanks, as always!</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">-John<br/><br/> </span></p> Order of operations for a Guild neck removaltag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-10-08:2177249:Topic:948092012-10-08T16:25:40.540ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>So, I picked up another project. This one is a Guild D35 from 1982, which suffered a shattered neck and some really, really bad epoxy and c-clamp based repairs. There is no way that this neck can be reassembled. I paid $5 for it, so it is a completely worth project, and any failures on my part will not break the bank.</p>
<p></p>
<p>While posting about this on the Lets Talk Guild forum, a very nice gentleman offered to send me a neck he had sitting around. It's roughly the right era, and…</p>
<p>So, I picked up another project. This one is a Guild D35 from 1982, which suffered a shattered neck and some really, really bad epoxy and c-clamp based repairs. There is no way that this neck can be reassembled. I paid $5 for it, so it is a completely worth project, and any failures on my part will not break the bank.</p>
<p></p>
<p>While posting about this on the Lets Talk Guild forum, a very nice gentleman offered to send me a neck he had sitting around. It's roughly the right era, and the right shape. It has the tongue of the fretboard cut off, though, and might have a crack in the heel. (I should have it in hand tomorrow, but I have time to post today.)</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'll be doing the work myself. I have done a few neck-resets, and should be able to pull this off.</p>
<p></p>
<p>So, here are my thoughts, and I invite any alternative considerations that anyone might have.</p>
<p></p>
<p>1. I would like to eventually put the original neck back on, that is, the original headstock and serial number. This would require replacing a fair amount of wood in the neck, adding some carbon fiber rods for stiffness, and dealing with a cracked fingerboard. This is not happening any time soon. But it is an eventual goal.</p>
<p></p>
<p>2. The neck I'm receiving has the tongue cut off. I feel (and have read) that the tongue is an important part of the structure of a guitar. That said, this is a Guild, and therefore built like a brick shithouse. The amount of wood in that neck joint is impressive, especially around the neck block. While I intend to have a tongue there, I'm not sure that I need to have it integral with the rest of the fingerboard. I suspect I could get away with having them simply butted up against each other. But then I need to source or create a tongue. I don't really want to just cut the tongue off the other fretboard, but then again, it is nicely damaged by the headstock, so maybe I don't need to save it.</p>
<p></p>
<p>3. If I want to save the original neck, I will need to remove the fingerboard at some point. Should I keep it on for steaming the neck joint, or can I remove it before dealing with the steam needle? I know I can remove it for much easier access to the dovetail joint, but I am concerned that the steam needle really needs that fingerboard there to keep steam in the joint, rather than allowing steam to just blow back out from the joint if the fingerboard is off. Anybody dealt with this? Any thoughts?</p>
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<p>I'm blogging the heck out of this (and other things), so there are lots of pictures towards the bottom of this page. <a href="http://summergarageluthier.blogspot.com/2012/09/new-stuff-new-stuff.html">http://summergarageluthier.blogspot.com/2012/09/new-stuff-new-stuff.html</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for reading that wall of text!</p>
<p></p> cleaning fibers stuck to the underside of a pickguardtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-06-06:2177249:Topic:889662012-06-06T16:59:45.652ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>The topic about says it all. The 1982 Guild that I'm working on had a crack developing next to the pickguard, which has shrunk just enough to start causing problems (and checking the finish as well.)</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've got it off without much trouble, just a few loose fibers of wood to glue back in place on the top, not a problem.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The pickguard itself is in fine shape and will flatten out nicely, but there are lots of bits of fibers adhered to the back. How do I clean those…</p>
<p>The topic about says it all. The 1982 Guild that I'm working on had a crack developing next to the pickguard, which has shrunk just enough to start causing problems (and checking the finish as well.)</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've got it off without much trouble, just a few loose fibers of wood to glue back in place on the top, not a problem.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The pickguard itself is in fine shape and will flatten out nicely, but there are lots of bits of fibers adhered to the back. How do I clean those off without melting the guard itself? Is naptha going to do the trick, or something stronger (and yet still safe)?</p>
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<p>I assume that I should put a nice layer of lacquer on the newly exposed area of the soundboard before clamping the whole thing back together. And then it is touchup time - yippee.</p> Guild D212NT neck removal - wimpy dovetail joint observationtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-05-29:2177249:Topic:883662012-05-29T23:30:00.933ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>I was very lucky a couple of weeks ago, and picked up a nice Guild D212NT made in 1982. It had a loose neck, so I got it for $125 - a steal.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I loosened the fingerboard extension today, and the neck popped right off. No steam, no wiggling, no pulling.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The joint was clearly not well sized. The glue was holding the neck on, not the joint. In the pictures I have attached, you can see the white areas where there was glue contact, and a whole bunch of nice shiny dried…</p>
<p>I was very lucky a couple of weeks ago, and picked up a nice Guild D212NT made in 1982. It had a loose neck, so I got it for $125 - a steal.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I loosened the fingerboard extension today, and the neck popped right off. No steam, no wiggling, no pulling.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The joint was clearly not well sized. The glue was holding the neck on, not the joint. In the pictures I have attached, you can see the white areas where there was glue contact, and a whole bunch of nice shiny dried glue that never made any contact anywhere.</p>
<p></p>
<p>This should be a breeze to fix - I'm going to make a slight neck angle adjustment, since a straightedge hits about 1/16" below the top of the bridge. Then a few shims, and some careful fitting, and I'm in business.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Anybody else ever see this kind of problem with a Guild? I thought these joints were famous for being chock-full of glue and impossible to budge, but this appears to be the exception. Or perhaps they were filled with glue to take care of lousy joint construction? Either way, this seems pretty odd and unusually sloppy. Everything else on this guitar seems really tight and has very little wear. Almost no fretwear, the bridge plate looks brand new (nice rosewood for that, and what an odd shape), and the finish shows some heat damage, which is probably what killed the neck joint. All the braces are solid, there are no cracks, no gaps, nothing else wrong with this beast. I feel really lucky here.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Mark</p> Guild Starfire Binding Issuetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-11-17:2177249:Topic:465532010-11-17T17:18:00.122ZGregg Spraguehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/theguitarmedic
<p>Hi all, I used to hang out here before I opened my business and figured this was the place for my question. I haven't done any binding repairs before so I would like to get some ideas on this Guild.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have seen the method of cutting it in the middle to relieve the tension, glue it back in place and fill in the cut area with some binding melted in acetone of the same color and then "draw" in the black lines and then shoot some laquer over it. I read about this approach…</p>
<p>Hi all, I used to hang out here before I opened my business and figured this was the place for my question. I haven't done any binding repairs before so I would like to get some ideas on this Guild.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have seen the method of cutting it in the middle to relieve the tension, glue it back in place and fill in the cut area with some binding melted in acetone of the same color and then "draw" in the black lines and then shoot some laquer over it. I read about this approach somewhere (probably here) but any other methods/ideas would be appreciated. </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>