All Discussions Tagged 'archtop' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T04:40:11Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=archtop&feed=yes&xn_auth=noOld laminate-top (cheap??) Archtoptag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-02-12:2177249:Topic:1832122019-02-12T17:01:07.743ZJack D. Generauxhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JackDGeneraux
<p><span>Years ago (circa 2002) I bought a guitar body and neck from a fellow in Iowa who said they were from a defunct factory ( can remember the name.) The attached images show the parts. I shelved the project and never got around to messing with it; I prefer building from scratch. Recently a friend showed interest in completing this project. When I looked at the parts, however, I am concerned about the neck joint; the small tenon seems inadequate to me. I wonder if anyone has run…</span></p>
<p><span>Years ago (circa 2002) I bought a guitar body and neck from a fellow in Iowa who said they were from a defunct factory ( can remember the name.) The attached images show the parts. I shelved the project and never got around to messing with it; I prefer building from scratch. Recently a friend showed interest in completing this project. When I looked at the parts, however, I am concerned about the neck joint; the small tenon seems inadequate to me. I wonder if anyone has run into this type of construction? Also, inspecting the inside with a mirror reveals a rather small block to receive the neck. Before investing much of his time, I want to make sure its not a doomed venture. If nothing else we could pull the back off and install a proper head block and build up the neck tenon. Could even build up the heel. Your thought are appreciated. -- Jack</span></p> Looking for opinions/info about my mystery archtop...tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-08-02:2177249:Topic:1491632015-08-02T17:40:52.840ZMatt Smithhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MattSmith
<p>Picked this up recently in my travels, and was hoping I could get some information/opinions from you knowledgeable folks about it. It didn't come with any kind of history or story (which is a shame, because I bet it has a lot of both).</p>
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<p><a href="http://imgur.com/a/RiCYG" target="_blank">IMGUR album with photos</a></p>
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<p>I've chatted already with a few folks that really know their instruments from this period and gotten a lot of good suggestions, but here's what I know…</p>
<p>Picked this up recently in my travels, and was hoping I could get some information/opinions from you knowledgeable folks about it. It didn't come with any kind of history or story (which is a shame, because I bet it has a lot of both).</p>
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<p><a href="http://imgur.com/a/RiCYG" target="_blank">IMGUR album with photos</a></p>
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<p>I've chatted already with a few folks that really know their instruments from this period and gotten a lot of good suggestions, but here's what I know for sure:</p>
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<p>This guitar has been loved, and played a lot. Shows lots of play wear, and signs of small repairs over the years.</p>
<p>25.5" scale.</p>
<p>1.75" width at nut.</p>
<p>15" lower bout.</p>
<p>Plastic/bakelite bridge.</p>
<p>Tuners are a 4/2 mix of scalloped/round Grovers from the mid-late 30's.</p>
<p>Neck is straight, but with just a slight twist (counter-clockwise as you sight down from the headstock).</p>
<p>I'm here at this forum in large part because I ran across a number of Kerry Krishna's knowledgeable posts about (somewhat) similar instruments. Tried to add him as a friend, but it hasn't gone through yet. So, Kerry, if you're reading this... this is the guitar I had mentioned to you in my request.</p>
<p><br/> Any ideas?</p> Calling All Vintage Gibson Mandolin Expertstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-08-13:2177249:Topic:1151542013-08-13T22:15:15.091ZSteve Bakerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/SteveBaker
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<p>We have this older Gibson A4 (Appears to be from 1918-22?) in the shop and are uncertain about what it was originally like and what we've got ahead of us in a repair. Maybe some of you who specialize in mandolins have some experience with this particular model. (more below)<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953158?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953158?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"></img></a></p>
<p>The owner brought it in because the back is separating from the…</p>
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<p>We have this older Gibson A4 (Appears to be from 1918-22?) in the shop and are uncertain about what it was originally like and what we've got ahead of us in a repair. Maybe some of you who specialize in mandolins have some experience with this particular model. (more below)<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953158?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953158?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>The owner brought it in because the back is separating from the heel/block area and the action is so high it's unplayable.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953512?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953512?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>When we started looking at it, we noticed the flatter profile of the top (below) and were certain that the top was collapsing because of loose or broken braces. But we looked inside and found that to not be the case. The bridge is very tall and could certainly be lowered to get the action down. But should we be re-inforcing the top somehow first? </p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953747?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953747?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a>Then I started looking at the fretboard area of the body, particularly the way it falls toward the sound-hole (above,) and got to wondering if that lower arch wasn't a deliberate part of the original design. So that's the first question: Could an A4 of this era have been built with a flatter arch?</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954582?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954582?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a>Next we noticed and the owner confirmed that the center seam had been repaired at some time. Could enough material have been removed from the center to make the top collapse this much? If that's the case there really isn't a way to replace that material and make the arch taller. </p>
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<p>In good shape, an A5 could be worth over $2k and it's a family piece that the owner is interested in playing so he's prepared to put a few hundred into the repair. We figure the back will need to come off to fix the separation and that it won't fit back perfectly when it's time to reassemble. </p>
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<p>Wondering if anyone is familiar with this model's particulars. While we work on lots of mandolins here - new and vintage - we don't build (or re-build) them and because of the top issues, this is somewhat unfamiliar territory. Any thoughts or insights would be great.</p>
<p></p> Reseating neck after removal: swolen dovetailtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-05-31:2177249:Topic:887122012-05-31T14:29:13.204ZWes Yateshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WesYates
First off, new to the site so pardon any breeches in etiquette. I am restoring an early 60s Kay archtop acoustic and had removed the neck. The parts are dry now but the dovetail seems to have swolen. The neck wood is poplar as i can tell (color and smell). The neck does not seat as far down now as it did. There is about a 1/4" lift in the neck. I can reduce the dovetail to fit the cavity, but want to know if that is the right path to go down. I will post a pic soon.<br />
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This was an old, beat up…
First off, new to the site so pardon any breeches in etiquette. I am restoring an early 60s Kay archtop acoustic and had removed the neck. The parts are dry now but the dovetail seems to have swolen. The neck wood is poplar as i can tell (color and smell). The neck does not seat as far down now as it did. There is about a 1/4" lift in the neck. I can reduce the dovetail to fit the cavity, but want to know if that is the right path to go down. I will post a pic soon.<br />
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This was an old, beat up guitar that had some REALLY poor restoration done on it as well, the neck was separating from the body at the heel causing the string angle to be really low to the bridge. While correcting that (and since this is a project guitar anyway), i am totally restoring it back to as close to original as possible.<br />
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I'm refinishing it, replacing the fretboard, adding a pickguard (missing), replacing the truss rod. Otherwise using as many original parts as i can.<br />
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Thanks<br />
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I also build cigar box guitars on the side.<br />
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-Wes Yates archtop guitar center seam separationtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Topic:850812012-03-02T23:48:47.973ZErnie Miciakhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ErnieMiciak
<p>Hi</p>
<p>I built a D'Angelico New Yorker copy from Tom Ribbecke's plan (via Luthier's Mercantile) about 12 years ago. It has since developed a center seam separation on the x-braced sitka top. It's about 1/8" wide. I would sure appreciate any suggestions on repairing this thing. I tried a wood epoxy filler (the light stuff in the pix) but not happy with it. Have read about the double blade knife for removing a uniform width of wood then inlaying a new piece of sitka. Any…</p>
<p>Hi</p>
<p>I built a D'Angelico New Yorker copy from Tom Ribbecke's plan (via Luthier's Mercantile) about 12 years ago. It has since developed a center seam separation on the x-braced sitka top. It's about 1/8" wide. I would sure appreciate any suggestions on repairing this thing. I tried a wood epoxy filler (the light stuff in the pix) but not happy with it. Have read about the double blade knife for removing a uniform width of wood then inlaying a new piece of sitka. Any thoughts?</p>
<p>Ernie</p> 1962 Rodebald Hoyertag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-03:2177249:Topic:205882009-11-03T23:00:35.419ZBryn Uptonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BrynUpton
I am in Germany for a few months and found a 1962 Rodebald Hoyer Broadway guitar, it is an archtop with a sunburst paint job, lacquer finished (completely checked) and a loose neck. It was almost never played and has been hanging out in an attic for 45 years. The fingerboard and frets are perfect but the paint is flaking off on the head and the neck appears to be loose. There are plastic bands that run around the sides that have come away and don't appear to have enough slack to be re-glued.<br />
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I…
I am in Germany for a few months and found a 1962 Rodebald Hoyer Broadway guitar, it is an archtop with a sunburst paint job, lacquer finished (completely checked) and a loose neck. It was almost never played and has been hanging out in an attic for 45 years. The fingerboard and frets are perfect but the paint is flaking off on the head and the neck appears to be loose. There are plastic bands that run around the sides that have come away and don't appear to have enough slack to be re-glued.<br />
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I took off the strings and the bridge looks great. I just got this today so everything is already closed for the evening but tomorrow I will head to the paint store in the next town to try to find something I can use to restore the lacquer.<br />
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I have never tried anything this ambitious before and I am in a foreign country to boot so I am hoping the good people here can help out with this project. I am attaching pics of the instrument, the checking, and the logo.