All Discussions Tagged 'bindings' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T00:00:42Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=bindings&feed=yes&xn_auth=noneck finishingtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-06-20:2177249:Topic:1698542017-06-20T03:50:54.094Zmark nathensonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/marknathenson
<p>Greetings, I am a newbie at least in the world of guitars. I am in process of building a semi hollow body electric from a kit(I can hear groans already) but I need to start somewhere so I have a better understanding. I am at the finishing stage and I have finished anything from classic cars to grand pianos. I'm curious when I spray clear nitro lacquer, at what point do I mask off at the neck bindings? In other words, should I mask off the top edge of the fingerboard leaving the fret ends…</p>
<p>Greetings, I am a newbie at least in the world of guitars. I am in process of building a semi hollow body electric from a kit(I can hear groans already) but I need to start somewhere so I have a better understanding. I am at the finishing stage and I have finished anything from classic cars to grand pianos. I'm curious when I spray clear nitro lacquer, at what point do I mask off at the neck bindings? In other words, should I mask off the top edge of the fingerboard leaving the fret ends exposed? I assume that I'm lacquering over the bindings as if I mask them off I will have a hard line and I'm concerned about edge durability. I have examined my Gretsch Les Paul and cant tell how the factory did it.</p>
<p>I have found that masking bindings prior to staining and not having to scrape them later, using 1/8" vinyl automotive ( 3M) pinstripe tape works well and the stain does not bleed if well burnished down. Im referring to striping tape which is a bit pricey but automotive body pinstripe may also work as it is also vinyl and about 1/3 the cost but I haven't tried it.</p> Glue choice for regluing celluloid bindings on 1970s Vega dread repair?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-01-18:2177249:Topic:1258892014-01-18T12:00:14.290ZTodd Rosehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ToddRose
<p>I'm back to work on this 1970s Vega dread that I put on the back burner for a while (I bought this guitar cheap to fix up and resell, so there's no hurry on it). Another thing it needs is regluing the celluloid bindings that have pulled away from the waist. This is a first time operation for me. </p>
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<p>Since I've got the neck off, I'll separate the bindings from the waist all the way up to the neck, then reglue them. My question is what glue to use. My first thought was to go with…</p>
<p>I'm back to work on this 1970s Vega dread that I put on the back burner for a while (I bought this guitar cheap to fix up and resell, so there's no hurry on it). Another thing it needs is regluing the celluloid bindings that have pulled away from the waist. This is a first time operation for me. </p>
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<p>Since I've got the neck off, I'll separate the bindings from the waist all the way up to the neck, then reglue them. My question is what glue to use. My first thought was to go with one of the glues commonly used for plastic bindings: weld-on or one of the glues LMI sells for this purpose. But the more I think about cleaning that stuff up after gluing, the more I think maybe there are better options for a repair situation like this.<br/><br/>On this page, Frank Ford demonstrates using wood glue for this: <a class="postlink" href="http://frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Structural/ReglueBinding/regluebinding.html">http://frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Tec ... nding.html</a><br/><br/>Now, Frank is certainly a trusted source, but I can't help worrying a bit about wood glue having sufficient bonding strength with a plastic like celluloid. Can anyone else here confirm that wood glue is a good choice? Or what about hide glue (e.g. Old Brown Glue) or fish glue? My understanding is that animal glues have been used to bond various materials like glass, for example, though I don't personally have experience with this, and I'm not sure about plastics. It sure would be nice to be able to clean up with water and leave the finish unscathed.<br/><br/>I would even consider epoxy, as I could clean that up with alcohol before it cures, but a water clean up would be ideal.<br/><br/>Thanks!</p>