All Discussions Tagged 'fret' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T23:09:17Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=fret&feed=yes&xn_auth=noLatitude for oversized fret slot widths on a new nuttag:fretsnet.ning.com,2023-12-21:2177249:Topic:2955202023-12-21T19:53:39.216ZMark McCornackhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkMcCornack
<p>Greetings,</p>
<p> I am wondering if there is an accepted oversize dimension for nut slot withs on steel stringed instruments (i.e. banjo, guitar). To accommodate players that might use heavier stings (and to relieve the luthier from buying every slot file under the sun), is there an acceptable oversize criterion? For example, for a nominal .011 string, is a .013 slot OK? .015? .017? What about wound strings? This would be for new bone nut blanks. Any thoughts would be appreciated. ...…</p>
<p>Greetings,</p>
<p> I am wondering if there is an accepted oversize dimension for nut slot withs on steel stringed instruments (i.e. banjo, guitar). To accommodate players that might use heavier stings (and to relieve the luthier from buying every slot file under the sun), is there an acceptable oversize criterion? For example, for a nominal .011 string, is a .013 slot OK? .015? .017? What about wound strings? This would be for new bone nut blanks. Any thoughts would be appreciated. ... Mark</p>
<p></p> Installing 22nd fret with overhangtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2023-02-03:2177249:Topic:2888082023-02-03T16:11:18.929ZDave Sparrowhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveSparrow124
<p>I hope someone more experienced can advise me please.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've carried out many refrets so I'm generally fairly experienced in that respect but I've just been asked to refret a 22 fret Strat with a fingerboard extension. That's obviously a very delicate area so does anyone have any tips or learning points born from bad experiences?!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p>I hope someone more experienced can advise me please.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've carried out many refrets so I'm generally fairly experienced in that respect but I've just been asked to refret a 22 fret Strat with a fingerboard extension. That's obviously a very delicate area so does anyone have any tips or learning points born from bad experiences?!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> Seating frets - how well is well enough?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-02-12:2177249:Topic:1539892016-02-12T19:16:53.892ZRussell Hollandhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellHolland
<p>I am doing my third refret right now. I just got the Jaws2 from StewMac (the Bessey clamp fret press), and am using it for the first time on this guitar (an Eastman OM). I hammered previously.</p>
<p>My question: If I slide the corner of a .002" piece of receipt paper along the lower edge of the fret crown where it should rest on the fingerboard, and it occasionally slides under in some spots, is this a big deal? I also have been sliding a thicker .005" piece of paper along the frets and it…</p>
<p>I am doing my third refret right now. I just got the Jaws2 from StewMac (the Bessey clamp fret press), and am using it for the first time on this guitar (an Eastman OM). I hammered previously.</p>
<p>My question: If I slide the corner of a .002" piece of receipt paper along the lower edge of the fret crown where it should rest on the fingerboard, and it occasionally slides under in some spots, is this a big deal? I also have been sliding a thicker .005" piece of paper along the frets and it almost never fits under the crown.</p>
<p>I'm running thin superglue under all frets after pressing, trying to get the press back on them as soon as I can after the glue goes in, and leaving it for 20 minutes or so.</p>
<p>The other two guitars I have refretted play well, but I want to improve wherever possible.</p>
<p>I'm not a frequent poster, so if I've broken any protocol, please don't hesitate to let me know! I did a quick search for "seating frets" before posting this. I appreciate any help you guys can give!</p>
<p>-Russell</p> Newbie: Seating Frets to Consistent Height; Using cant file correctly.tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-10-31:2177249:Topic:959852012-10-31T14:46:14.701ZRobbie Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>I just finished my second refretting - Jazz Bass neck. My first refret was a Danelectro 1445 with just about every neck problem imaginable: slight twist, s-shape with 3 humps, .026" wide fret slots, etc. <br></br><br></br>I had to remove a lot of rosewood on the Dan'O which I figured was appropriate considering its problems. After I hammered in the frets (crimping the heck out of them with the SM tool) I found that the neck was still straight but the frets were very uneven. There were some shadow…</p>
<p>I just finished my second refretting - Jazz Bass neck. My first refret was a Danelectro 1445 with just about every neck problem imaginable: slight twist, s-shape with 3 humps, .026" wide fret slots, etc. <br/><br/>I had to remove a lot of rosewood on the Dan'O which I figured was appropriate considering its problems. After I hammered in the frets (crimping the heck out of them with the SM tool) I found that the neck was still straight but the frets were very uneven. There were some shadow lines on some frets so I think maybe I needed to deepen the frets slots more than I did. In any case, I had to take a lot of metal off the frets and was left with some very wide flats that took a considerable amount of time to round.</p>
<p>I assumed that my hammering technique had something to do with my inconsistent fret seating so I decided to use a arbor press for the JB neck. I tried Erlewine's method of using a 6" radius for the ends and a 9.25" for the actual insertion. The frets all seated cleanly. I was chagrined to find that, once again, I had fret height variation prior to leveling that I considered beyond acceptable tolerances. This meant, of course, that I once again had to take off a lot of metal and leaving me with wide flats to deal with (keep in mind I'm a newbie with high standards, but no one to tell me when I achieve what may be an average result).<br/><br/>It occurred to me that inconsistent pressure applied to the arbor press arm could be to blame. Too bad the arbor press doesn't have a dial that reads force applied (could be a useful mod to the SM arbor press)!<br/><br/>To add insult to injury, when I crowned the files I forgot to tape up the fretboard. I used my new SM cant file for the first time. I assumed that since the bottom vee had been "safed" that I could rest it on the fretboard as I made strokes. Now I have slight grooves pressed into the wood parallel to the frets. Both of the fret jobs look pretty good except for two problems: the fretboard grooves and some slightly twisted fret ends.<br/><br/>I plan to yank the frets on the JB and start over as soon as new fretwire arrives.<br/><br/>I have some questions, but any and all advice is welcome.<br/><br/>Q1: Is there a secret to consistent fret seating other than lots of practice?</p>
<p>As for the twisted fret ends. I'm thinking this is happening either when I'm bending the frets or when I'm clipping off the fret ends. I'm using a homemade fret-bender to over-radius the frets and Dan Erlewine's method for clipping fret ends using a SM clipper.<br/><br/>Q2: Is it more likely my fret-bender is twisting the fretwire or that I'm twisting the wire as I make the cut? Is twisting a problem with pro fret benders?<br/><br/>Q3: As for the fretboard marks, does masking tape provide enough protection to rest the cant file on the fretboard or is this a general no-no? I do have the metal fret guards but had forgotten about them.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p> electric octave mandolintag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-01-14:2177249:Topic:252572010-01-14T08:28:44.561Zmandolin jackhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/mandolinjack
Flattening frets? I've converted a half-size child's Strat into a 5-string EOM (scale length=19"). With new PUs from Carvin it sounds great! However, because it's a child's guitar, the neck is not THAT well made and the frets are not absolutely flat - which means I have a high action.<br />
I am confident that I am able to sand down the frets so that they are level, but then some frets (especially up the top end of the neck) would have flat tops. I can't afford a radius fret file; does anyone have…
Flattening frets? I've converted a half-size child's Strat into a 5-string EOM (scale length=19"). With new PUs from Carvin it sounds great! However, because it's a child's guitar, the neck is not THAT well made and the frets are not absolutely flat - which means I have a high action.<br />
I am confident that I am able to sand down the frets so that they are level, but then some frets (especially up the top end of the neck) would have flat tops. I can't afford a radius fret file; does anyone have any cheaper alternatives?<br />
Thanks Martin fretboard dotstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-06:2177249:Topic:206842009-11-06T21:45:49.770ZFritz Froeschnerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/normanfritzfroeschner
anyone want to give me some pointers .... how do you cut the holes and install fretboard markers, dots, in a new fretboard? ... a brad point bit in a drill press is what I was thinking about...I can do all the locating and depth control alright... just wondering about what kind of cutting tool to use for making the holes. Also, what are the sizes of the dots on a 70's D 18? They seem to be 5, 6 and 7 mm ... but the middle one looks more like 1/4" 6.35mm ... I can get a 5,6 and 7mm drill bit but…
anyone want to give me some pointers .... how do you cut the holes and install fretboard markers, dots, in a new fretboard? ... a brad point bit in a drill press is what I was thinking about...I can do all the locating and depth control alright... just wondering about what kind of cutting tool to use for making the holes. Also, what are the sizes of the dots on a 70's D 18? They seem to be 5, 6 and 7 mm ... but the middle one looks more like 1/4" 6.35mm ... I can get a 5,6 and 7mm drill bit but not 6.35mm bit... any words of wisdom / experience will be greatly appreciated... and Thank you for this great Forum.<br />
Fritz bridge saddle placement with zero frettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-10-14:2177249:Topic:198682009-10-14T15:57:37.646ZDavid Chudnovskyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidChudnovsky
When positioning a new bridge on a retopped yamaki guitar with a zero fret do I measure from the nut or the zero fret to place bridge and saddle?
When positioning a new bridge on a retopped yamaki guitar with a zero fret do I measure from the nut or the zero fret to place bridge and saddle? Different Neck Tensions When Re-frettingtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-09-23:2177249:Topic:193932009-09-23T22:38:13.766ZDave Baconhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidBacon
Hello,<br />
<br />
I wanted to get some different views about this topic. Feelings on whether there should be tension on the truss rod, moderate tension, or no tension at all when installing new frets. I glue frets in with cyanoacrylate glue, and leave the truss rod completely backed off - this is how I was taught.<br />
<br />
Generally, I have good success with this technique, but there are jobs when things seem to go askew without explanation, usually resulting in a head-scratching re-do. Perhaps a new approach is…
Hello,<br />
<br />
I wanted to get some different views about this topic. Feelings on whether there should be tension on the truss rod, moderate tension, or no tension at all when installing new frets. I glue frets in with cyanoacrylate glue, and leave the truss rod completely backed off - this is how I was taught.<br />
<br />
Generally, I have good success with this technique, but there are jobs when things seem to go askew without explanation, usually resulting in a head-scratching re-do. Perhaps a new approach is in the cards.<br />
<br />
I look forward to hearing your thoughts.<br />
<br />
~ Dave