All Discussions Tagged 'neck' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T17:15:25Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=neck&feed=yes&xn_auth=noNeck Blocktag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-10-26:2177249:Topic:2864932022-10-26T15:05:24.590ZColin O'Brienhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ColinOBrien
<p>Hello, I'm repairing a loose neck block on a 1972 Guild 212. The top has split on both sides of the neck where it lays over the upper bout. My question is do I need to re-enforce this area? The top itself would still contact about 1/2 of the top of the block on each side if it were glued down. In other words the splits are OVER the block, not along its top edges. I tried to get a picture of that.</p>
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<p>Before I glue this up I want it to be strong enough!</p>
<p>Hello, I'm repairing a loose neck block on a 1972 Guild 212. The top has split on both sides of the neck where it lays over the upper bout. My question is do I need to re-enforce this area? The top itself would still contact about 1/2 of the top of the block on each side if it were glued down. In other words the splits are OVER the block, not along its top edges. I tried to get a picture of that.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Before I glue this up I want it to be strong enough!</p> Removing a neck with a wide square heeltag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-06-06:2177249:Topic:1914402020-06-06T18:47:49.178ZChristopher Parkerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ChristopherParker
<p>I've done between 30 and 40 neck resets over the years. Mostly vintage Martins. Sometimes some finish touchup is necessary, but they always come out nice and clean.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>However, I had a bad experience with a Gibson B-25 probably 20 years ago. The wide, square heel required a lot of heat and steam to break the glue bond, which resulted in blistering the surrounding finish. That finish touchup was a tricky one, but in the end it looked great. Ever since, I've shied away from doing…</p>
<p>I've done between 30 and 40 neck resets over the years. Mostly vintage Martins. Sometimes some finish touchup is necessary, but they always come out nice and clean.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>However, I had a bad experience with a Gibson B-25 probably 20 years ago. The wide, square heel required a lot of heat and steam to break the glue bond, which resulted in blistering the surrounding finish. That finish touchup was a tricky one, but in the end it looked great. Ever since, I've shied away from doing neck resets on guitars with square heels. Just not worth the headache. I'm not at all fast with finish repairs and touchups, and I don't particularly enjoy it. </p>
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<p>I have a Guild D-25 that was given to me. Needs a neck reset, but otherwise in nice shape. A perfect opportunity to gain experience, and the liability is small since it's not a customer's guitar. But, it would be cool if I could pull off a clean job without a whole lot of finish touchup. </p>
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<p>I've scribed the finish around the perimeter of the heel, and have the tongue separated from the top. Just need to heat the neck off. In the past, I've used a modified espresso machine to shoot steam into the dovetail, but I recently acquired a heat stick, and I've had good results. My only complaint is that it requires a hole that leaves a footprint which is wider the fret can cover. </p>
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<p>Any advice regarding how to achieve a clean removal on this old Guild would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p> Templates or guides for drilling steam holestag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-09-03:2177249:Topic:1804952018-09-03T22:29:50.661ZBruce Ericksonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BruceErickson
<p>Since drilling holes in fretboards to steam necks off is such a common occurrence, are there templates with hole placements, or a list of placement, angles, etc,of these somewhere? Or is it 'just drill baby'? </p>
<p>Along the same line, pictures and dimensions of neck dovetails. I think I saw a discussion of this on this forum from a while ago.</p>
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<p>Forgive my naiveté. I'm new here. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<p>Since drilling holes in fretboards to steam necks off is such a common occurrence, are there templates with hole placements, or a list of placement, angles, etc,of these somewhere? Or is it 'just drill baby'? </p>
<p>Along the same line, pictures and dimensions of neck dovetails. I think I saw a discussion of this on this forum from a while ago.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Forgive my naiveté. I'm new here. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Bruce</p> Advice on 12 string bridge height short of a neck resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-09-03:2177249:Topic:1804092018-09-03T18:41:12.851ZBruce Ericksonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BruceErickson
<p>This is for the Guild F112 my brother is letting me experiment with. I'm a fair novice so I'm moving slowly. </p>
<p>The bridge had pulled up and the belly bowed. My brother attempted to fix it with bolts into the wings. When I got it the bridge was halfway off. I pulled it and cleaned up the bridge 'bed' (that's what I'm calling the area under the bridge). I had to remove a lot of junk from previous repairs (not mine) and the tearout was considerable. This lowered the bridge bed some,…</p>
<p>This is for the Guild F112 my brother is letting me experiment with. I'm a fair novice so I'm moving slowly. </p>
<p>The bridge had pulled up and the belly bowed. My brother attempted to fix it with bolts into the wings. When I got it the bridge was halfway off. I pulled it and cleaned up the bridge 'bed' (that's what I'm calling the area under the bridge). I had to remove a lot of junk from previous repairs (not mine) and the tearout was considerable. This lowered the bridge bed some, but checking the neck angle shows its still too high. </p>
<p>I'll install one of the JLD rigs, probably the Bridge System since it doesn't require drilling yet another hole in the already perforated bridge, plus seems to add more strength. Having the string ball ends and windings showing is not gonna be pretty though. I'm also concerned the windings will end up resting on the saddle - bad thing. Worse case is modifying the windings - another bad thing. But that's another story.</p>
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<p>Short of a neck reset, what recommendations would you guys have for compensating the bridge height? The original saddle was already pretty low. I'll see what that's like after installing the bridge and JLD. I could shave a bit off the top of the bridge - not the bottom since the wings are already pretty thin. Then I would also have to cut the saddle slot a little deeper. Kinda tricky for my level of (in)experience. But then so is a neck reset.</p> Takamine Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-03:2177249:Topic:1763262018-01-03T20:23:55.384ZDave Domizihttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
<p>Hi All,</p>
<p></p>
<p>After a bit of research, I though I'd go to the hive mind. I have in an older (late 70's?) Takamine F-360, essentially a Martin copy, that has a fairly high action that would benefit from a neck reset.</p>
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<p>A few questions:</p>
<p></p>
<p>1) After removing the 15th fret, I've been unable to drill in and hit the air pocket of the neck joint. Anyone have info of the joints in these guitars?</p>
<p></p>
<p>2) There's a good bit out there about these joints being…</p>
<p>Hi All,</p>
<p></p>
<p>After a bit of research, I though I'd go to the hive mind. I have in an older (late 70's?) Takamine F-360, essentially a Martin copy, that has a fairly high action that would benefit from a neck reset.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A few questions:</p>
<p></p>
<p>1) After removing the 15th fret, I've been unable to drill in and hit the air pocket of the neck joint. Anyone have info of the joints in these guitars?</p>
<p></p>
<p>2) There's a good bit out there about these joints being assembled with epoxy. Is this the case for this era/model?</p>
<p></p>
<p>3) If I can't get definitively drilled into the gap in the neck joint, is there any point to attempting to steam the joint apart, or should I settle for a slotted pin bridge with super-low saddle? I try to never do that, but I'm not sure that the guitar calls for a bolt-on surgery.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for any info!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> Ovation Matrix replacement necktag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-08-28:2177249:Topic:1722612017-08-28T14:57:27.329ZRichard Greenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RichardGreen
<p>I read a discussion thread on here from March/April 2010 regarding the dressing of frets on an Ovation Matrix guitar...it couldn't be done because the "instrument" has a cast aluminum fretboard bonded to a resin material neck...I have one myself, built May 11, 1979. It has a fair bit of sentimental value to me but the frets are ruined. The gent in that thread Mike Kolb I believe replaced the neck with one from an Ovation Ultra which I believe is a rosewood on Mahogany assembly.</p>
<p>Anyone…</p>
<p>I read a discussion thread on here from March/April 2010 regarding the dressing of frets on an Ovation Matrix guitar...it couldn't be done because the "instrument" has a cast aluminum fretboard bonded to a resin material neck...I have one myself, built May 11, 1979. It has a fair bit of sentimental value to me but the frets are ruined. The gent in that thread Mike Kolb I believe replaced the neck with one from an Ovation Ultra which I believe is a rosewood on Mahogany assembly.</p>
<p>Anyone out there with a good neck they want rid of, or with a damaged body and good neck from a Matrix? I'd even change to the mahogany/rosewood if I could find it at a reasonable price, presuming it fit and didn't need a complete rebuild. It was the only guitar I owned for many years, ironically (or not...) the neck never moved. The top would rise and sink depending on moisture conditions causing variations in the action, but the guitar sounded really good. Others that played it over the years liked the sound, but usually hated everything else about it...i.e. plastic bowl/back, round back shape, aluminum neck (even though, I'd never tell anyone until they played it and raved about the sound and playability.)</p> neck finishingtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-06-20:2177249:Topic:1698542017-06-20T03:50:54.094Zmark nathensonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/marknathenson
<p>Greetings, I am a newbie at least in the world of guitars. I am in process of building a semi hollow body electric from a kit(I can hear groans already) but I need to start somewhere so I have a better understanding. I am at the finishing stage and I have finished anything from classic cars to grand pianos. I'm curious when I spray clear nitro lacquer, at what point do I mask off at the neck bindings? In other words, should I mask off the top edge of the fingerboard leaving the fret ends…</p>
<p>Greetings, I am a newbie at least in the world of guitars. I am in process of building a semi hollow body electric from a kit(I can hear groans already) but I need to start somewhere so I have a better understanding. I am at the finishing stage and I have finished anything from classic cars to grand pianos. I'm curious when I spray clear nitro lacquer, at what point do I mask off at the neck bindings? In other words, should I mask off the top edge of the fingerboard leaving the fret ends exposed? I assume that I'm lacquering over the bindings as if I mask them off I will have a hard line and I'm concerned about edge durability. I have examined my Gretsch Les Paul and cant tell how the factory did it.</p>
<p>I have found that masking bindings prior to staining and not having to scrape them later, using 1/8" vinyl automotive ( 3M) pinstripe tape works well and the stain does not bleed if well burnished down. Im referring to striping tape which is a bit pricey but automotive body pinstripe may also work as it is also vinyl and about 1/3 the cost but I haven't tried it.</p> Help..Neck Straighten and shim on National guitartag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-06-09:2177249:Topic:1609452016-06-09T21:07:59.035Zdanny mangoldhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/dannymangold
<p>Hi all. I have a question..has anyone heard of a way that a super strong but super thin material ( ebony) that can be used as both a shim under the fretboard to straighten out an old non truss rod neck as well as it raising the action a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>Hi all. I have a question..has anyone heard of a way that a super strong but super thin material ( ebony) that can be used as both a shim under the fretboard to straighten out an old non truss rod neck as well as it raising the action a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p> Stick Glue - Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-02-03:2177249:Topic:1535032016-02-03T05:05:39.968ZE Michael Johnsonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/EMichaelJohnson
<p>A friend of mine who happens to be blind asked me to adjust his old Alvarez. The action was pretty high and the saddle was almost depleted so I thought I might try to do a neck reset. As I examined it I realized that at some point hot stick (plastic) glue had been used to fill a gap between the back and the neck block. I fear that the whole thing was attached with this same messy stuff.</p>
<p>What is the best way to dissolve this stuff? I explained to my friend that his instrument may…</p>
<p>A friend of mine who happens to be blind asked me to adjust his old Alvarez. The action was pretty high and the saddle was almost depleted so I thought I might try to do a neck reset. As I examined it I realized that at some point hot stick (plastic) glue had been used to fill a gap between the back and the neck block. I fear that the whole thing was attached with this same messy stuff.</p>
<p>What is the best way to dissolve this stuff? I explained to my friend that his instrument may end up being sacrificial because of the process so he bought himself a new guitar and gave me the freedom to give it a try and to give the guitar to someone who needs one if it turns out playable.</p>
<p>I mostly build ukes and have only done one neck removal as a practice project from a clunker someone found in the trash. Got it off ok, but the guitar went back into the trash!</p>
<p>Any ideas/advice? </p> Upright Bass with a broken necktag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-07-21:2177249:Topic:1487802015-07-21T15:48:58.957ZRob Suttonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobSutton
<p>Hello!</p>
<p>Had a customer bring in an upright bass with a broken neck. The neck actually broke at the heal, fracturing it into a couple pieces. The neck is completely free from the body of the instrument. Does anyone have any experience or ideas on how to repair it?Thanks,</p>
<p>Rob</p>
<p>Hello!</p>
<p>Had a customer bring in an upright bass with a broken neck. The neck actually broke at the heal, fracturing it into a couple pieces. The neck is completely free from the body of the instrument. Does anyone have any experience or ideas on how to repair it?Thanks,</p>
<p>Rob</p>