What to do with this old guitar? - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T12:11:09Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/2177249:Topic:2636?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A2661&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noBrian,
From one novice to an…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2008-09-16:2177249:Comment:26612008-09-16T07:54:15.714ZDoug Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DougCollins
Brian,<br />
<br />
From one novice to another, I just want to offer encouragement. You can fix this thing. I have only repaired a few guitars, but have been successful in all attempts so far. My first attempt was a guitar in similar shape (it only had one string too!) but I paid a little more. Mine cost me 50¢ in a garage sale.<br />
<br />
In my very limited experience, I have found that wood has a will to return to it's original form. If you give it the opportunity, it will flatten out and stay that way. With two…
Brian,<br />
<br />
From one novice to another, I just want to offer encouragement. You can fix this thing. I have only repaired a few guitars, but have been successful in all attempts so far. My first attempt was a guitar in similar shape (it only had one string too!) but I paid a little more. Mine cost me 50¢ in a garage sale.<br />
<br />
In my very limited experience, I have found that wood has a will to return to it's original form. If you give it the opportunity, it will flatten out and stay that way. With two guitars I have used a little bit of heat and clamps to flatten a warped top. Beware that heat will also loosen glue, so you risk having some braces come loose. But that's not so bad, (in fact it might be a good thing - I'm not sure) you can glue them back in place. On that note, you should have a look (or feel) inside the guitar. There may already be some loose or broken braces.<br />
<br />
I can't tell from the photos if the bridge has lifted, but if you have to remove and re-glue it, its not that expensive to replace the cracked bridge. Otherwise, it might still function with the cracked bridge. It's pretty easy replace a bridge, especially if you don't have a fine finish to worry about. But I would get a mirror and have a peak at the bridge plate underneath to make sure its not cracked too. I've never replace a bridge plate before - I hear it's not fun.<br />
<br />
I'm a little confused about your description of the fingerboard. It's seems like you must be talking about the pickguard area, not the fret board.<br />
<br />
By looking at one of the picture, the action looks really high likely indicating a neck reset. That's a little trickier job, but you can do it and there are plenty of more knowledgeable guys on this site who can help you along. I've done a couple with not too much problem.<br />
<br />
That's my assessment, but consider the source. I may be a little too eager to offer advice with my limited experience, but I wanted to encourage you to give it a try. You have nothing to lose. You won't kill the guitar - it's already dead. But you can resurrect it!<br />
<br />
Best of luck,<br />
<br />
Doug Collins "My name's Jeffrey, and I'm a…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2008-09-16:2177249:Comment:26422008-09-16T03:52:19.462ZJeffrey L. Suitshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JeffreyLSuits
"My name's Jeffrey, and I'm a Yamaholic"<br />
<br />
"Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii, Jeffrey!"<br />
<br />
That aside--FG230s are all ply constuction, which is why it hasn't self-destructed since the late 60s/early 70s--rehumidifying will have an effect on the neck & fingerboard, next to nothing on the body. It needs a neck reset; they all do. My suggestion is to convert it to a bolt-on when you do so. Some of the very early FG neckjoints were hide glue, BUT!--they are EXTREMELY tight joints, and no picnic to get out--I…
"My name's Jeffrey, and I'm a Yamaholic"<br />
<br />
"Hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii, Jeffrey!"<br />
<br />
That aside--FG230s are all ply constuction, which is why it hasn't self-destructed since the late 60s/early 70s--rehumidifying will have an effect on the neck & fingerboard, next to nothing on the body. It needs a neck reset; they all do. My suggestion is to convert it to a bolt-on when you do so. Some of the very early FG neckjoints were hide glue, BUT!--they are EXTREMELY tight joints, and no picnic to get out--I just did an FG230 a month ago, it was a beast to pull.<br />
<br />
JLD: Yes, but not so much for the belly, as for tone. What it will do for this 12 string, properly installed-- AND properly adjusted--, will have to be heard, to be believed.<br />
<br />
Bridge: I'd fill the cracks w/rosewood dust, pack it in well, follow w/ thin superglue. Slight reaming of the bridgepin holes, afterwards.<br />
<br />
These are really good guitars; too many of them languish as de-facto 6 strings. Hi Brian.... OK, so Bill gave…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2008-09-16:2177249:Comment:26402008-09-16T03:21:19.501ZMike Kolbhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKolb
Hi Brian.... OK, so Bill <u>gave</u> you the guitar? .... no cost at all? Hmmm.<br />
Well then, have a good time with it! Maybe try the JLD, or tear the guitar apart, see what makes it tick and experiment like crazy! You'll learn a lot and have a ball doing it. When all's said and done you'll either have a free guitar or a pile of wood.... but the price is right and the learning is priceless. But don't give it back to bill :)
Hi Brian.... OK, so Bill <u>gave</u> you the guitar? .... no cost at all? Hmmm.<br />
Well then, have a good time with it! Maybe try the JLD, or tear the guitar apart, see what makes it tick and experiment like crazy! You'll learn a lot and have a ball doing it. When all's said and done you'll either have a free guitar or a pile of wood.... but the price is right and the learning is priceless. But don't give it back to bill :)