!949 Martin D-18 ; foctory bridge placement - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T12:43:21Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/949-martin-d-18-foctory-bridge-placement?id=2177249%3ATopic%3A69713&feed=yes&xn_auth=noSorry I have wasted you alls…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-22:2177249:Comment:1331972014-05-22T18:57:30.860ZRon frazierhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Ronfrazier403
Sorry I have wasted you alls time!<br/>
I saw no where that I could not posts.<br/>
I will start a new question and see if I can learn from you. /><br />
Ron
Sorry I have wasted you alls time!<br/>
I saw no where that I could not posts.<br/>
I will start a new question and see if I can learn from you. /><br />
Ron I second that motion.
What's…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-22:2177249:Comment:1331932014-05-22T03:50:41.259ZPaul Verticchiohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>I second that motion.</p>
<p>What's going on now with these now irrelevant responses to 'the problem's been solved' old issues is another good reason for the O.P. to close the thread to responses when the O.P. is 'done' with them.</p>
<p>Perhaps there's a way for the Administrator to automatically close inactive posts after, say...90 days... from its last posting/response activity.</p>
<p>If the original issue isn't resolved, it's better for the O.P to start a new thread with updated…</p>
<p>I second that motion.</p>
<p>What's going on now with these now irrelevant responses to 'the problem's been solved' old issues is another good reason for the O.P. to close the thread to responses when the O.P. is 'done' with them.</p>
<p>Perhaps there's a way for the Administrator to automatically close inactive posts after, say...90 days... from its last posting/response activity.</p>
<p>If the original issue isn't resolved, it's better for the O.P to start a new thread with updated info.</p>
<p>Also, we all learn so much [in this case 3 1/2 years] that we could beat these badly decomposed horses for hours with updated info. The key question is: "Is what you're posting germane to the question posed?". After more than a year, the answer may comfortably be presumed to be "No".</p> Hey Ron -
Every time you dr…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-22:2177249:Comment:1330492014-05-22T02:43:51.606ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>Hey Ron - </p>
<p></p>
<p>Every time you dredge up one of these old messages, you push current messages off the board, and also crowd my email inbox with notes that you are posting on these old topics! </p>
<p></p>
<p>Glad that you are enjoying the board, but maybe you can stick to current topics where a helpful answer can actually do some good?</p>
<p>Hey Ron - </p>
<p></p>
<p>Every time you dredge up one of these old messages, you push current messages off the board, and also crowd my email inbox with notes that you are posting on these old topics! </p>
<p></p>
<p>Glad that you are enjoying the board, but maybe you can stick to current topics where a helpful answer can actually do some good?</p> I had a customer with a 60s d…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-21:2177249:Comment:1330892014-05-21T22:04:00.292ZRon frazierhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Ronfrazier403
I had a customer with a 60s d 28 that the saddle was 1/8 to close to the nut.<br />
He would not let me change it as he liked the sound of it the way it was.<br />
On checking with Martin I found that dissatisfied Martin employee had cut the story pole that they setall bridges with off1/8 inch! It never got fixed.<br />
<br />
I have a d 28 1936 that was in a apple box and I restored it and it looks like new. I ordered the right bridge from.martin and never antiqued it . Reset the neck. I wished I had saved the old…
I had a customer with a 60s d 28 that the saddle was 1/8 to close to the nut.<br />
He would not let me change it as he liked the sound of it the way it was.<br />
On checking with Martin I found that dissatisfied Martin employee had cut the story pole that they setall bridges with off1/8 inch! It never got fixed.<br />
<br />
I have a d 28 1936 that was in a apple box and I restored it and it looks like new. I ordered the right bridge from.martin and never antiqued it . Reset the neck. I wished I had saved the old bridge and added to the bottom. I have it around here but it has been hiding for about 15 years now.<br />
<br />
Ron I think you guys are over ana…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-12:2177249:Comment:714822011-09-12T05:05:01.090ZJim Bancrofthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JimBancroft
<p>I think you guys are over analyzing this. You don't need to add wood to the heel tenon, you just add proper thickness shims to take up the slack. generally the dovetail opening in the body is cut large enough that it doesn't have to be enlarged at all, and if anything you remove material from the neck not the body.. You may have to remove a small amount from the end of the fretboard so it stops in its original position.</p>
<p>I'd also leave the intonation slightly flat to compensate for the…</p>
<p>I think you guys are over analyzing this. You don't need to add wood to the heel tenon, you just add proper thickness shims to take up the slack. generally the dovetail opening in the body is cut large enough that it doesn't have to be enlarged at all, and if anything you remove material from the neck not the body.. You may have to remove a small amount from the end of the fretboard so it stops in its original position.</p>
<p>I'd also leave the intonation slightly flat to compensate for the use of a capo and the fact that the string gets stretched just from fretting it. If the scale is off 1/8" I may only change it 3/32"</p>
<p>It doesn't take that much wood removal from the heel to correct this problem.</p>
<p>It's not time consuming to accomplish this, as some suggest.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Jim </p> I have never done this repair…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-11:2177249:Comment:713832011-09-11T17:24:42.568ZMagnus Hultinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MagnusHultin
<p>I have never done this repair, but I think You should start with adding wood to the tenon-sides and the added wood should be glued snug up against the current heel. After this You can cut the end of the tenon, and it seems to me You should cut the amount of wood corresponding to the distance You aim to move the scale.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>After this You can start working on the heel and also there the amount of wood to remove is just enough to allow for the movement You aim to achieve. I would…</p>
<p>I have never done this repair, but I think You should start with adding wood to the tenon-sides and the added wood should be glued snug up against the current heel. After this You can cut the end of the tenon, and it seems to me You should cut the amount of wood corresponding to the distance You aim to move the scale.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>After this You can start working on the heel and also there the amount of wood to remove is just enough to allow for the movement You aim to achieve. I would remove the same amount of would from top to bottom of the heel to start with, after this You have moved the scale without adjusting the neck angle. Once this is done start shaping the new tenon to make it fit and after finetuning the neck angle You will need to shim the tenon sides some more.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Reading what I just wrote I admit it seems a bit awkward but I think this is how I would do it, not to weaken the tenon. I wouldn´t touch the neck block.</p> I'm not sure I understand wha…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-11:2177249:Comment:713822011-09-11T17:14:50.810ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about Dale. Once you have removed enough material from the heel to shift the neck as much as you need, the dovetail (tenon) will need to be adjusted so it doesn't "bottom out on the back of the mortise (neck block). Along with that, the dovetail taper will need to be adjusted but it will need to be thickened, not thinned. The area where the taper meets the heel isn't going to be thinner than it is now, it should be the same thickness as it is…</p>
<p>I'm not sure I understand what you are talking about Dale. Once you have removed enough material from the heel to shift the neck as much as you need, the dovetail (tenon) will need to be adjusted so it doesn't "bottom out on the back of the mortise (neck block). Along with that, the dovetail taper will need to be adjusted but it will need to be thickened, not thinned. The area where the taper meets the heel isn't going to be thinner than it is now, it should be the same thickness as it is now because the mortise isn't going to change. You will need to add some material to the existing slopes of the dovetail then fit it to the mortise. In other words, as you push the dovetail deeper into the mortise you will create a gap which will need to be filled. In essence you will need to "shift" the existing dovetail back towards the heel by the same amount you removed from the heel to make it all fit. The only way I see to do that is to add material to the sides of the dovetail and fit the new material to the existing mortise.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I don't think I would consider removing material from both the dovetail and the mortise. "There be the way to madness."</p>
<p> </p>
<p>BTW, you will probably have a bit of extra finish touchup around the heel once the joint is complete since the removal of material on the heel will narrow it just a bit.</p> You are absolutely right Magn…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-11:2177249:Comment:709402011-09-11T15:53:52.630ZDale A. Benderhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaleABender
You are absolutely right Magnus. Additionally, taking wood ,only, from the neck block to allow movement of the male part of the dovetail might weaken the neck block. However, taking wood ,only, from the end of the male part of the dovetail would shorten the angled sides of the dovetail , and , significantly , decrease it's surface area for glue-up holding power. I think that half the amount taken off of both areas is the way to go . There still , though , will be a decreased surface area for…
You are absolutely right Magnus. Additionally, taking wood ,only, from the neck block to allow movement of the male part of the dovetail might weaken the neck block. However, taking wood ,only, from the end of the male part of the dovetail would shorten the angled sides of the dovetail , and , significantly , decrease it's surface area for glue-up holding power. I think that half the amount taken off of both areas is the way to go . There still , though , will be a decreased surface area for glue-up . I have to think that widening the ( gluing surface ) sides of the (male) dovetail , with my chisle, would be making the heel/dovetail junction get awfully narrow as the angled sides begin to converge upon oneanother. I probably won't do that , and, just live with the decreased surface area for gluing. And, you are also right , about lots of wood having to be added to fill the gap between the sides .Thoughts? Any way you look at it , like you said , it's going to be a whole lot more work . I think Jims advice is great…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-11:2177249:Comment:709382011-09-11T09:17:59.410ZMagnus Hultinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MagnusHultin
<p>I think Jims advice is great and it is probably what I would do to correct the problem, given that the heel is normal and there is enough material to work with. It should be mentioned though that this includes significant rework of the tenon-part of the dovetail joint. Substancial amounts of wood need to be added to the sides of the tenon and it need to be reshaped and shortened not to hit the bottom of the mortise pocket. It leads to plenty of more fitting work than a regular neck…</p>
<p>I think Jims advice is great and it is probably what I would do to correct the problem, given that the heel is normal and there is enough material to work with. It should be mentioned though that this includes significant rework of the tenon-part of the dovetail joint. Substancial amounts of wood need to be added to the sides of the tenon and it need to be reshaped and shortened not to hit the bottom of the mortise pocket. It leads to plenty of more fitting work than a regular neck reset.</p>
<p>Just something to consider before entering this course.</p> Yeah, Sorry bout that Jim, I…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-09:2177249:Comment:709102011-09-09T02:20:43.299ZMatt Haugenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/stringer
Yeah, Sorry bout that Jim, I didn't read everyone's posts before I plopped my chicken scratch down.
Yeah, Sorry bout that Jim, I didn't read everyone's posts before I plopped my chicken scratch down.