please see attached photo..
i believe the best way to get the sheared screw remains out from inside the threaded shaft is to take the shaft out and put it into a lathe.
then drill hole into the broken thread big enough to use a screw puller..
if this is the case, how does one remove the shaft from the tuner,
in order to be able to put it into a lathe?
otherwise we may need to cut a slot into the top of the shaft to enable us to use a screwdriver to draw it out..
not preferable, but may work...
any advice welcome please!!
Can't say for sure whether the washer under the cog has any effect on the tension at the worm shaft. Since it potentially adds friction, it could make it harder to turn--or it could be there to keep the peg from flopping around when there's no tension on it. I'd say try backing off the screw holding the gear in place but SM might put LocTite on that one, too. Do so at your own risk... . Depending on the version of LocTite used, it could be easy to remove the screw, or difficult. The stuff comes in different strength formulas. OTOH, it would be pretty easy to put more LT on if you got the screw off without damage.
The real issue is getting the special wrench/spanner for that little slotted collar. If I had that, I'd not be reluctant to do my own adjustments and replace the LT after.
I always get a little annoyed when manufacturers take the view that an end user can't possibly do a good job of doing their own work on relatively simple mechanical stuff. But they do cost a whole lot of money and SM does seem to be ready to do whatever it takes to make them right.
yeah, they said no go on the pre-adjustment as they should be factory fine...
too much tightness they put down to peghead holes not being perfectly drilled,
or bad installation...
But they do cost a whole lot of money and SM does seem to be ready to do whatever it takes to make them right.
agree with you there..
profit margins must be good to fund it...
Of all gears I know, Waverly mandolin tuners are by far the most sensitive to peghead hole alignment. The slightest spacing error or off-axis hole can cause the mechanism to bind and become uncommonly hard to turn.
yeah that must be whats going on, assuming the replacement set performs the same way..
could there be an issue with the MOP buttons wearing inside?
it's really only on the g pair, and only by the time i get it to F# and a bit does it get very tough....so i guess it could be worse. thanks goodness i have reasonably good hands to manage it.. and it doesn't slipout of tune readily.
saying that, i really don't remember them being this tight for till the last couple string changes.
from memory they were J 74's on them.
i may need to go with 73's?
it's a F4 spec'd exactly like a '23 model the luthier said.
I would put a strong magnet on top of the broken screw and see if there was any play.