Back Thickness - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T16:02:07Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/back-thickness?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A21207&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThanks for all your help. Aft…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212182009-11-21T22:37:58.313ZJack Lordhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JackLord
Thanks for all your help. After reading your comments, I feel that the .080" mahogany back will probably do fine. I haven't braced it yet, and it flexes just fine, no sign of fissility (I learned a new word). I'll brace it and see how it looks.
Thanks for all your help. After reading your comments, I feel that the .080" mahogany back will probably do fine. I haven't braced it yet, and it flexes just fine, no sign of fissility (I learned a new word). I'll brace it and see how it looks. . To do veveers you really ne…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212152009-11-21T19:34:48.593ZDavid Houchenshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidBryceHouchens
. To do veveers you really need an odd number of layers IMO. All this extra work and end up with a back you didn't start out wanting.<br />
I would save it for a 1-18 or another smaller guitar to build in the future, or a top.
. To do veveers you really need an odd number of layers IMO. All this extra work and end up with a back you didn't start out wanting.<br />
I would save it for a 1-18 or another smaller guitar to build in the future, or a top. Mahogany lovers unite!I hope…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212132009-11-21T17:59:24.961ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace
Mahogany lovers unite!I hope there will always be enough left to make an instrument.
Mahogany lovers unite!I hope there will always be enough left to make an instrument. Several mahogany ("true" - "n…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212072009-11-21T16:49:32.685ZRob Mercurehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobMercure
Several mahogany ("true" - "new world" - Swietenia genus) tops that I've measured including a Guild D-25 have had a 0.080" top thickness so if you wind up not using any of the other suggestions for this wood as a back piece you might consider it for a table. My first good guitar was a Guild D-25 and I think that true mahogany makes a great top wood with a great "non-boomy" response (but if you've seeking the "traditional/bluegrass" bottom boom, missing mid, emphasized treble D-28 sound mahogany…
Several mahogany ("true" - "new world" - Swietenia genus) tops that I've measured including a Guild D-25 have had a 0.080" top thickness so if you wind up not using any of the other suggestions for this wood as a back piece you might consider it for a table. My first good guitar was a Guild D-25 and I think that true mahogany makes a great top wood with a great "non-boomy" response (but if you've seeking the "traditional/bluegrass" bottom boom, missing mid, emphasized treble D-28 sound mahogany won't do it).<br />
<br />
There's always options in life if we're willing to open or stretch the "box" a bit .<br />
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Rob I'd agree with David and Tim…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212032009-11-21T14:50:26.161ZDave Yelvertonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveYelverton
I'd agree with David and Tim to this extent; mahogany is variable. For good mahogany I would say that at 2mm (.08") you've reached the safety limit. Any thinner and it will be prone to split easily and the back will be unlikely to form an even curve over the braces. For the quality of mahogany I've had in latter years, 2.5mm (0.1") is a safer thickness.
I'd agree with David and Tim to this extent; mahogany is variable. For good mahogany I would say that at 2mm (.08") you've reached the safety limit. Any thinner and it will be prone to split easily and the back will be unlikely to form an even curve over the braces. For the quality of mahogany I've had in latter years, 2.5mm (0.1") is a safer thickness. imo the thickness sounds ok f…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:212022009-11-21T13:55:54.578ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace
imo the thickness sounds ok for for the back if it's already been thicknessed to.080.Go for it.If it fails you'll know better next time!Mahogany can take it.And backs aren't under the stress like tops.
imo the thickness sounds ok for for the back if it's already been thicknessed to.080.Go for it.If it fails you'll know better next time!Mahogany can take it.And backs aren't under the stress like tops. Jack,
I have noticed that ev…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-21:2177249:Comment:211942009-11-21T05:06:00.949ZDavid Paynehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidPayne
Jack,<br />
<br />
I have noticed that every piece of wood is different (Captain obvious here) but did the plate seem too flexible before braces? I have come to rely on the "feel" of the wood to arrive at a thickness. Part of the problem with production guitars is they don't adjust dimensions depending on wood density and stiffness. If it seems too thin because it is too flimsy then you might be Ok with stiffer bracing, maybe not. How does the back plate respond to flexing?<br />
<br />
Dave
Jack,<br />
<br />
I have noticed that every piece of wood is different (Captain obvious here) but did the plate seem too flexible before braces? I have come to rely on the "feel" of the wood to arrive at a thickness. Part of the problem with production guitars is they don't adjust dimensions depending on wood density and stiffness. If it seems too thin because it is too flimsy then you might be Ok with stiffer bracing, maybe not. How does the back plate respond to flexing?<br />
<br />
Dave How about saving the too thin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-20:2177249:Comment:211812009-11-20T19:12:37.338ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
How about saving the too thin mahogany plate for a ukulele. I don't think it's too thin for that. You might even be able to get both the back and top from it.<br />
<br />
Ned
How about saving the too thin mahogany plate for a ukulele. I don't think it's too thin for that. You might even be able to get both the back and top from it.<br />
<br />
Ned I agree, or you could run two…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-20:2177249:Comment:211722009-11-20T17:39:06.172ZEvan Bradleyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/EvanBradley
I agree, or you could run two little narrow and tall braces down the middle of each side end to end to provide a bit more structural integrity, though not sure if this would dampen, guess it depends on the bracing....Good luck!
I agree, or you could run two little narrow and tall braces down the middle of each side end to end to provide a bit more structural integrity, though not sure if this would dampen, guess it depends on the bracing....Good luck! Jack, I think the plan specif…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-11-20:2177249:Comment:211682009-11-20T16:54:59.564ZDave Yelvertonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveYelverton
Jack, I think the plan specifies 0.1". I don't pretend to be an expert, but IMHO 0.08" would be about the thickness to use for rosewood. You might get away with 0.08", but I generally find that mahogany is a bit too fissile for that. If you're feeling a bit insecure about this, how about laminating some mahogany veneer on the inside of your back? I also know a guy who layers his backs with spruce and he builds some amazing instruments. You could always start with a new back set but given the…
Jack, I think the plan specifies 0.1". I don't pretend to be an expert, but IMHO 0.08" would be about the thickness to use for rosewood. You might get away with 0.08", but I generally find that mahogany is a bit too fissile for that. If you're feeling a bit insecure about this, how about laminating some mahogany veneer on the inside of your back? I also know a guy who layers his backs with spruce and he builds some amazing instruments. You could always start with a new back set but given the increasing rarity of mahogany that would seem an unacceptable waste!<br />
<br />
Dave