Boullanger parlour guitar - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T13:13:49Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/boullanger-parlour-guitar?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A181871&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI thought the Stemac saw was…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-29:2177249:Comment:1824042018-12-29T18:26:18.809ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>I thought the Stemac saw was 0.1 mm! Anyway. The Axminster one will work just fine. It's very easy to bend or break a thin saw like this, you have to be careful and don't get stuck. In fact, a litte bit thicker saw is maybe easier to work with and will cut straighter, the extra thickness don't really matter when done.</p>
<p>I thought the Stemac saw was 0.1 mm! Anyway. The Axminster one will work just fine. It's very easy to bend or break a thin saw like this, you have to be careful and don't get stuck. In fact, a litte bit thicker saw is maybe easier to work with and will cut straighter, the extra thickness don't really matter when done.</p> Actually, per the listed spec…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-29:2177249:Comment:1826932018-12-29T18:15:46.125ZLARRY KLOSEhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LARRYKLOSE
<p>Actually, per the listed specs, the Axminster saw is thinner than the Stewmac: 0.16mm vs. 0.1905mm (.0075"). I'm not sure it makes much difference. TPI on the Azminster is 42, not listed for the Stewmac.</p>
<p>Larry</p>
<p>Actually, per the listed specs, the Axminster saw is thinner than the Stewmac: 0.16mm vs. 0.1905mm (.0075"). I'm not sure it makes much difference. TPI on the Azminster is 42, not listed for the Stewmac.</p>
<p>Larry</p> I don't think a marking gauge…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-28:2177249:Comment:1824942018-12-28T17:22:58.900ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>I don't think a marking gauge will do any favors as long as you can see the edge of the binding clearly. Close inspection, maybe using a magnify glass of sorts, and careful sawing is the way to do it.</p>
<p>I think that saw would work. <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Saws/Japanese_Super_Fine-Cut_Saw.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Stewmac</a> have the really thin one I use, thinner and with fine teethes.</p>
<p>I don't think a marking gauge will do any favors as long as you can see the edge of the binding clearly. Close inspection, maybe using a magnify glass of sorts, and careful sawing is the way to do it.</p>
<p>I think that saw would work. <a href="https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Saws/Japanese_Super_Fine-Cut_Saw.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Stewmac</a> have the really thin one I use, thinner and with fine teethes.</p> Roger
Many thanks for all you…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-28:2177249:Comment:1824932018-12-28T16:59:51.369ZDave Yelvertonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveYelverton
<p>Roger</p>
<p>Many thanks for all your helpful input. After a little deliberation, I have decided to opt for sawing off the back. The customer involved has given me another guitar for similar attention, which very much lends itself to this treatment.</p>
<p>A couple of further questions:</p>
<p>Would it help to use a marking gauge to score the cutting line? I feel that may aid in keeping my saw from wandering, and:</p>
<p>Would this type of saw be appropriate at 42 tpi? The finest I can get…</p>
<p>Roger</p>
<p>Many thanks for all your helpful input. After a little deliberation, I have decided to opt for sawing off the back. The customer involved has given me another guitar for similar attention, which very much lends itself to this treatment.</p>
<p>A couple of further questions:</p>
<p>Would it help to use a marking gauge to score the cutting line? I feel that may aid in keeping my saw from wandering, and:</p>
<p>Would this type of saw be appropriate at 42 tpi? The finest I can get in other saws is 26tpi which I feel may not give a fine enough cut.</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-super-fine-saw-502226?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9rO8ovzC3wIV0_ZRCh3yLAJeEAQYASABEgK4rPD_BwE" target="_blank">https://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-super-fine-saw-502226?gclid=EA...</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Regards</p>
<p>Dave</p> Added a drop-down list in the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-22:2177249:Comment:1821842018-12-22T19:50:34.097ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>Added a drop-down list in the menue to make the Google Translate easy and intantly from Swedish in the WordPress site. To many different languages, among them English! :-)</p>
<p>Added a drop-down list in the menue to make the Google Translate easy and intantly from Swedish in the WordPress site. To many different languages, among them English! :-)</p> Check out this post. Here I u…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-20:2177249:Comment:1818762018-12-20T07:51:20.324ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>Check out this post. Here I use a the very thin Japan saw (0.1 mm thick blade) to cut away the bottom. The binding is brittle ivory on this fine guitar, the hard ivory made it easy to follow the edge of the binding with the saw. Click on the pictures for bigger ones!</p>
<p><br></br><a href="https://gammelgura.se/wordpress/?p=3353" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://gammelgura.se/wordpress/?p=3353</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>The only thing you can see from the operation now is the extra glue…</p>
<p>Check out this post. Here I use a the very thin Japan saw (0.1 mm thick blade) to cut away the bottom. The binding is brittle ivory on this fine guitar, the hard ivory made it easy to follow the edge of the binding with the saw. Click on the pictures for bigger ones!</p>
<p><br/><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://gammelgura.se/wordpress/?p=3353" target="_blank">https://gammelgura.se/wordpress/?p=3353</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>The only thing you can see from the operation now is the extra glue line at the bottom of the kerfing if you look inside. Also, the side is about 0.2 mm lower. The time used for cuttting was shorter than the time it would take to glue a new binding and clean up the mess after that.</p> Dave, Based on my violin repa…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-20:2177249:Comment:1820882018-12-20T05:06:26.549ZStuart Horsmanhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/StuartHorsman
<p>Dave, Based on my violin repair work, Roger's cutting method will be the easiest, and best, method to use. (take your time!) Router speed will create more problems than it will cure. Once you get your opening started, a little alcohol dripped into the opening will make breaking the glue easier. Minimal alcohol, and a FINE watercolor brush works on violins, and doesn't tear up the existing finish if you're careful.</p>
<p>Dave, Based on my violin repair work, Roger's cutting method will be the easiest, and best, method to use. (take your time!) Router speed will create more problems than it will cure. Once you get your opening started, a little alcohol dripped into the opening will make breaking the glue easier. Minimal alcohol, and a FINE watercolor brush works on violins, and doesn't tear up the existing finish if you're careful.</p> Thanks Roger. With the help o…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-20:2177249:Comment:1819792018-12-20T02:00:38.946ZDave Yelvertonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveYelverton
<p>Thanks Roger. With the help of Firefox's translate function I managed to obtain a pretty close translation although it struggled with one ore two words.</p>
<p>Looks fascinating! I have only browsed it for about 20 mins, but will certainly return to read it in depth.</p>
<p>Thanks Roger. With the help of Firefox's translate function I managed to obtain a pretty close translation although it struggled with one ore two words.</p>
<p>Looks fascinating! I have only browsed it for about 20 mins, but will certainly return to read it in depth.</p> There are many ways to a good…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-19:2177249:Comment:1817802018-12-19T00:23:36.575ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>There are many ways to a good end result. Routing off the binding is one if you can match the original binding. You will find the glue line and separate the bottom from the sides and blocks the usual way. Cutting through the heel and end block with the saw is no big problem though, you still got two fitting pieces of a puzzle that goes together nice and tight with hot hide glue! The neck will probably have to be off though.</p>
<p>Yes, removing the old splinters is necessary. With the back…</p>
<p>There are many ways to a good end result. Routing off the binding is one if you can match the original binding. You will find the glue line and separate the bottom from the sides and blocks the usual way. Cutting through the heel and end block with the saw is no big problem though, you still got two fitting pieces of a puzzle that goes together nice and tight with hot hide glue! The neck will probably have to be off though.</p>
<p>Yes, removing the old splinters is necessary. With the back off and if the bottom bracing is firm it's possible to get a better crack repair with cleats to secure the cracks. I find it easier to remove the back bracing and do all that work with a loose flat unrestrained bottom. Regluing the original or new bracing is a simple enough task when done with the cracks.</p>
<p>Thanks for checking out my site. You can always put the URL page link into Google Translate and get everything on the page translated to English. All the special guitar words (or any other special word) will be translated literary or left as Swedish though. The big story can be understood with some creative reading ;-)</p> Hi George
Fortunately that do…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-12-19:2177249:Comment:1819732018-12-19T00:06:27.577ZDave Yelvertonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveYelverton
<p>Hi George</p>
<p>Fortunately that doesnt seem to be the case.</p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p></p>
<p>Hi George</p>
<p>Fortunately that doesnt seem to be the case.</p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p></p>