Bruno fretboard - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T01:21:20Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/bruno-fretboard?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A174406&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI'm lucky enough to be a smal…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-18:2177249:Comment:1746312017-11-18T16:38:47.484ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>I'm lucky enough to be a small guy with small hands. Very practical when dealing with parlor guitars! But if there is a will there is a way :-)<br/><br/>You may consider making a new lower replica bridge and save the original. My experience is that its a bit futile though, that loose original bridge will probably get lost in the future since it's no longer glued to the guitar. People usually don't care about not so important things...</p>
<p>I'm lucky enough to be a small guy with small hands. Very practical when dealing with parlor guitars! But if there is a will there is a way :-)<br/><br/>You may consider making a new lower replica bridge and save the original. My experience is that its a bit futile though, that loose original bridge will probably get lost in the future since it's no longer glued to the guitar. People usually don't care about not so important things...</p> OK Roger .. I’m familiar with…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-18:2177249:Comment:1745152017-11-18T15:57:19.310ZFritz Froeschnerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/normanfritzfroeschner
<p>OK Roger .. I’m familiar with case hardening screw holes with water thin SG.. and will definitely use hot H glue.. the screw itself will be tricky as the soundhole is so small I can’t get my hand through…. I know I know, I shouldn’t be working on this guitar…!!! :) but with a long drill bit through the hole it should be doable. It's been busy here and I haven’t had time to even look at the thing.. and yes George it may not even be an Ebony bridge… I plan to get back to it on…</p>
<p>OK Roger .. I’m familiar with case hardening screw holes with water thin SG.. and will definitely use hot H glue.. the screw itself will be tricky as the soundhole is so small I can’t get my hand through…. I know I know, I shouldn’t be working on this guitar…!!! :) but with a long drill bit through the hole it should be doable. It's been busy here and I haven’t had time to even look at the thing.. and yes George it may not even be an Ebony bridge… I plan to get back to it on Tuesday.</p>
<p>Will keep you posted.<br/> Thanks again<br/> fritz</p> Fritz, It looks to me as tho…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-18:2177249:Comment:1744072017-11-18T03:16:21.668ZGeorge Robertshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GeorgeRoberts
<p>Fritz, It looks to me as though the bridge is made of some light colored wood, possibly maple, dyed or stained to look like ebony. If this is the case, I would feel a little less reluctant about modifyiing it to the proper height. You could even consider compensating the saddle, or even substituting a compensating bone saddle.</p>
<p>I tend to be a purist, and would like to keep everything as original as possible. In this case I would lean toward expedient rather than pure. </p>
<p>Fritz, It looks to me as though the bridge is made of some light colored wood, possibly maple, dyed or stained to look like ebony. If this is the case, I would feel a little less reluctant about modifyiing it to the proper height. You could even consider compensating the saddle, or even substituting a compensating bone saddle.</p>
<p>I tend to be a purist, and would like to keep everything as original as possible. In this case I would lean toward expedient rather than pure. </p> Forgot to mention that I alwa…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-17:2177249:Comment:1746912017-11-17T07:31:39.727ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>Forgot to mention that I always add a screw from the inside on this type of neck joint about two thirds down from the top. Nothing fancy, just a wood screw with a small spacer to distribute the force over the neck block. The predrilled hole in the neck heel is reinforced with thin superglue, I add some paste wax to the screw and do a couple of test runs screwing it in and out before the neck is glued. Makes the neck reset easier and will keep the joint stable with time (the screw may need to…</p>
<p>Forgot to mention that I always add a screw from the inside on this type of neck joint about two thirds down from the top. Nothing fancy, just a wood screw with a small spacer to distribute the force over the neck block. The predrilled hole in the neck heel is reinforced with thin superglue, I add some paste wax to the screw and do a couple of test runs screwing it in and out before the neck is glued. Makes the neck reset easier and will keep the joint stable with time (the screw may need to be tighten now and then).</p> About lowering the height of…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-17:2177249:Comment:1746902017-11-17T07:03:36.230ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>About lowering the height of the bridge, you can probably take away some wood on the bottom first of all. You may have to lower the pyramids too, the top of the pyramids should not be higher than the middle part.</p>
<p>The only glue I would use on both the neck and the bridge is hot hide glue. Simply the best.</p>
<p>About lowering the height of the bridge, you can probably take away some wood on the bottom first of all. You may have to lower the pyramids too, the top of the pyramids should not be higher than the middle part.</p>
<p>The only glue I would use on both the neck and the bridge is hot hide glue. Simply the best.</p> OK Roger.. thank you for your…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-17:2177249:Comment:1744062017-11-17T01:51:18.768ZFritz Froeschnerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/normanfritzfroeschner
<p>OK Roger.. thank you for your insight and the great tips on working with this type of neck pocket… it’s very much appreciated and will come in handy when I get this apart.<br/> I think I will be happy if I can bring the bridge down to the 9mm Martin spec you referred to .. thanks for that info, the maple inlay makes a lot of sense also.. The client was asking about strings so I have an answer for that also. OK I’m felling much better about the whole thing.<br/> Thanks again.<br/> fritz</p>
<p>OK Roger.. thank you for your insight and the great tips on working with this type of neck pocket… it’s very much appreciated and will come in handy when I get this apart.<br/> I think I will be happy if I can bring the bridge down to the 9mm Martin spec you referred to .. thanks for that info, the maple inlay makes a lot of sense also.. The client was asking about strings so I have an answer for that also. OK I’m felling much better about the whole thing.<br/> Thanks again.<br/> fritz</p> You may have to insert a wedg…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-16:2177249:Comment:1745142017-11-16T23:01:59.309ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>You may have to insert a wedge under the fretboard to keep the fretboard straight without to much "slope off".</p>
<p>You may have to insert a wedge under the fretboard to keep the fretboard straight without to much "slope off".</p> I have no problem shaving dow…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-16:2177249:Comment:1746302017-11-16T22:42:38.816ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>I have no problem shaving down a bridge that is way too high down to a reasonable Martin pyramid bridge height of about 9 mm. Done with care reshaping the top of the bridge it will look nice and period correct.<br></br><br></br>Some old parlor guitars have this type of neck/bridge setup, probably because they were made for gut strings comparable to a classic guitar. Or due to structural change in the whole guitar from the string tension over time. The fretboard extension "dives" towards the bottom…</p>
<p>I have no problem shaving down a bridge that is way too high down to a reasonable Martin pyramid bridge height of about 9 mm. Done with care reshaping the top of the bridge it will look nice and period correct.<br/><br/>Some old parlor guitars have this type of neck/bridge setup, probably because they were made for gut strings comparable to a classic guitar. Or due to structural change in the whole guitar from the string tension over time. The fretboard extension "dives" towards the bottom of the bridge. Instead of taking off a all the material from the heel and making it too weak I would dig into the bottom of the neck pocket, possibly taking away some wood from both the heel and the neck block.<br/><br/>This type of neck joint with straight sides with a tight glue joint and nothing else to hold the neck is problematic. With a standard dove tail, the neck rests against the sides. The sides are curved, made of hard wood and very stable. But the force from the strings on this type of neck joint rests only on the soft wood in the neck block (and a little spruce end wood from the top). The neck will often rotate forward with strings at tension. Not much but the effect will be very visible at the bridge. Lately I have started to inlay a plate of hardwood (maple) in the upper third of the neck pocket to give the neck a hard surface to rest against. It helps. It doesn't hurt to glue a wood shim inside to make the neck block thicker too, they can be too thin and weak at times.<br/><br/>I can recommend Newtone Heritage strings for a parlor like this. They are great sounding low tension strings. NH 0.12 have a tension like a standard 0.11 set, NH 0.11 the same as a standard 0.10 set. The strings vibrates a bit wider though, add about 0.2 mm to the string height at the 12th fret.<br/><br/>One last warning, loosen the heel cap! This is the first thing I do nowadays, I can't count the times I've been fooled before by the heel cap when shaving the neck heel when doing neck resets...</p> yes Sir George.. I have seen/…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-16:2177249:Comment:1745082017-11-16T19:56:20.276ZFritz Froeschnerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/normanfritzfroeschner
<p>yes Sir George.. I have seen/studied yours and others on the most excellent neck joint collection here... thank so much.</p>
<p>Well.. a good nights sleep but this thing is still bugging me… to neck set to this bridge is going to take .075” off the heel which to me is substantial, and it will leave me with a kink at the bodyjoint that I wont be able to sand/fudge out due to the thin fretboard so, a wedge can be fit under the extension…all that may be good but it just seems like I’m neck…</p>
<p>yes Sir George.. I have seen/studied yours and others on the most excellent neck joint collection here... thank so much.</p>
<p>Well.. a good nights sleep but this thing is still bugging me… to neck set to this bridge is going to take .075” off the heel which to me is substantial, and it will leave me with a kink at the bodyjoint that I wont be able to sand/fudge out due to the thin fretboard so, a wedge can be fit under the extension…all that may be good but it just seems like I’m neck setting to an unnecessarily high bridge. I understand the incorrectness of shaving down a bridge in most all cases.. but something about the geometry I’m forcing on this guitar with this much change to the neck angle just to satisfy the tall bridge seems a bit wrong. </p> The neck joints on the Brunos…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-11-16:2177249:Comment:1746262017-11-16T19:34:58.824ZGeorge Robertshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GeorgeRoberts
<p>The neck joints on the Brunos of this era are often just a shallow mortise and tenon. The heel of the neck is inlet with straight sides about 1/4 inch into the neck block. I showed pictures of the joint fairly early on in the compendium of neck joints here on Frets.net.</p>
<p>The neck joints on the Brunos of this era are often just a shallow mortise and tenon. The heel of the neck is inlet with straight sides about 1/4 inch into the neck block. I showed pictures of the joint fairly early on in the compendium of neck joints here on Frets.net.</p>