Can Titebond be used to repair joints previously glued with PVA. - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T21:07:25Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/can-titebonad-be-used-to-repair-joints-previously-glued-with-pva?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A69299&feed=yes&xn_auth=noTo complicate it a bit more,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-04:2177249:Comment:702962011-09-04T20:08:46.928ZMagnus Hultinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MagnusHultin
To complicate it a bit more, LMI:s white glue is Aliphatic Resin type. For this reason it is not a safe bet to distinguish from the colour. LMI white is used by a lot of good repairmen and builders.
To complicate it a bit more, LMI:s white glue is Aliphatic Resin type. For this reason it is not a safe bet to distinguish from the colour. LMI white is used by a lot of good repairmen and builders. I absolutely LOVE Titebond Or…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-02:2177249:Comment:696092011-09-02T02:29:32.181ZDave Foxhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveFox
<p>I absolutely LOVE Titebond Original, I use hide glue when I need to. I absolutely detest plain white glue. I have had a lot of good luck with the water-thin CA glue that someone else mentioned, too.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I absolutely LOVE Titebond Original, I use hide glue when I need to. I absolutely detest plain white glue. I have had a lot of good luck with the water-thin CA glue that someone else mentioned, too.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p> </p> That's great Mike, please let…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-01:2177249:Comment:692382011-09-01T17:55:17.444ZPaul Breenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulBreen
That's great Mike, please let us know if it holds.
That's great Mike, please let us know if it holds. Repaired and almost fully ass…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-31:2177249:Comment:695832011-08-31T18:26:51.270ZMike Keenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKeen
<p>Repaired and almost fully assembled</p>
<p>Seems good</p>
<p>Repaired and almost fully assembled</p>
<p>Seems good</p> Mike, thanks for sharing the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-31:2177249:Comment:694182011-08-31T15:35:40.372ZPaul Breenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulBreen
Mike, thanks for sharing the results of your experiment. I hope it works as well for your top repair, good luck!
Mike, thanks for sharing the results of your experiment. I hope it works as well for your top repair, good luck! Nice work, thanks for the rep…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-30:2177249:Comment:693102011-08-30T11:07:54.922ZPierre-Antoine Roironhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PierreAntoineRoiron
Nice work, thanks for the report!
Nice work, thanks for the report! Thanks everyone for posting.…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-30:2177249:Comment:693082011-08-30T08:26:36.258ZMike Keenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKeen
<p>Thanks everyone for posting.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I now have a useful, bit of information. For many years I was a research scientist so I decided to set up a little experiment.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I took some small flat bits of pine (Clothes pegs) I coated the flat surface of a pair with Evo Stik white PVA wood glue (a British brand not sure if sold in US), and coated another pair with Titebond original. I left these to dry in a warm dry room (conservatory) for 3 hours.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I…</p>
<p>Thanks everyone for posting.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I now have a useful, bit of information. For many years I was a research scientist so I decided to set up a little experiment.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I took some small flat bits of pine (Clothes pegs) I coated the flat surface of a pair with Evo Stik white PVA wood glue (a British brand not sure if sold in US), and coated another pair with Titebond original. I left these to dry in a warm dry room (conservatory) for 3 hours.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I then</p>
<p>1. Glued the Titebond coated together with white PVA</p>
<p>2. Glued the white PVA coated together with Titebond original (Yellow)</p>
<p>3. Glued 2 fresh bits of wood together with Titebond</p>
<p>Area glued was about 1 1/2 inch x 1/4</p>
<p>I clamped and let these dry over night.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I tested the joints by holding the wood firmly in a vice and pushing with a blunt chistle against the joint line. As expected the joints all held firm.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I then stressed the joints by hitting sideways with a sharp blow with the blunt chistle using a fairly light hammer.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Number one above sheared along the glue line and both of the glued surfaces were largely undamaged - In other words the joint failed.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>With 2 and 3 (Titebond glued) above the wood gave way but the joint remained firm.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>It's a one off experiment but it's what I thought might happen, and it does show that Titebond can glue wood coated with white PVA.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Decided to use Titebond for this repair</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks again</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Mike from sunny London</p> I would use thin Supper glue.…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-30:2177249:Comment:688342011-08-30T01:12:28.087ZWilliam F.Edenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
I would use thin Supper glue. I use it on all my repaired violin cracks.and it works just fine. You just mask it real close to the crack on each side and run the C.A IN then wait 5 second and wipe it off and remove the tape just as quickly. Then the next day use supperfine steelwool to clean it up then buff it.......Good luck
I would use thin Supper glue. I use it on all my repaired violin cracks.and it works just fine. You just mask it real close to the crack on each side and run the C.A IN then wait 5 second and wipe it off and remove the tape just as quickly. Then the next day use supperfine steelwool to clean it up then buff it.......Good luck Paul
Thanks for the reply. I…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:692062011-08-29T22:59:39.549ZMike Keenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKeen
<p>Paul</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. I know that white PVA would never usually be used for instrument making. Like you I might use PVA or superglue for dots etc, otherwise I stick to hide glue.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The problem is in Sweden many nyckelharpa makers do use PVA. The reason for this that the nyckelharpa was revived in the 1970's and in order to do this "kits" of wood, instructions and blueprints were sent out to be made at adult evening education classes. They just used the glue that was…</p>
<p>Paul</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. I know that white PVA would never usually be used for instrument making. Like you I might use PVA or superglue for dots etc, otherwise I stick to hide glue.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>The problem is in Sweden many nyckelharpa makers do use PVA. The reason for this that the nyckelharpa was revived in the 1970's and in order to do this "kits" of wood, instructions and blueprints were sent out to be made at adult evening education classes. They just used the glue that was available - white PVA. Some of these student became established makers and continued to use white PVA. Many of the makers are now in their 70's and 80's still use white PVA and won't change. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Earlier this year I replaced the top of a nyckelharpa (which had colapsed) because the bassbar had detached, due to glue creep (white PVA again). I made a new soundboard/bassbar and glued it on with hide glue. As you would expect it's the soundboards that seem to fail (usually takes a few years). The rest of the construction is fairly industrial and so PVA seems to hold it OK.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I managed to scrape off some excess glue (where it had squeezed out) from the one I'm repairing now and put it into some water. It dissolved instantly and gave a white colour - no water resistance at all. The maker was in his 80's and very sadly is now dead. Otherwise the instrument is well made but he used the wrong glue.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cheers Mike</p> Mike, are you sure it's white…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:692992011-08-29T21:53:49.521ZPaul Breenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulBreen
<p>Mike, are you sure it's white? Can you see anywhere in the instrument where you have glue squeeze out? One <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>usually</em></span> won't find White glue used in higher quality instruments (never say never). The only place I'll use any white glue on an instrument might be a couple of small dots to glue a nut down, that's it. Because of the potential for glue creep and low temperature tolerance, I would leave the white glue on the shelf. I can tell you…</p>
<p>Mike, are you sure it's white? Can you see anywhere in the instrument where you have glue squeeze out? One <span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em>usually</em></span> won't find White glue used in higher quality instruments (never say never). The only place I'll use any white glue on an instrument might be a couple of small dots to glue a nut down, that's it. Because of the potential for glue creep and low temperature tolerance, I would leave the white glue on the shelf. I can tell you though that I have had good luck with Titebond used on dirty joints, I would recommend using that instead.</p>
<p>A few small cleats might not be a bad idea either, with the downward pressure you mention.</p>