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Back again.
I decided to go ahead and at least do the patch of the crack (from the inside per Thomas' suggested method). One question regarding the patch wood: would I place the patch so its grain is parallel to the grain of the body (so that it can expand and contract with the body's original wood grain) or would should the grain of the patch be perpendicular to the body's grain to provide extra support against the body splitting along the original crack? Or am I over-thinking this?
Thanks again. Ted
Ted, all of the side braces I've ever seen installed in guitars have grain that run at right angles to the side grain and they don't pop off under normal circumstances. I make my patches the same way.
Hi Ted & WELCOME :)
You've received some great advice from some of the best folks in the business regarding the side fracture.
I'm only chiming in to assist in dissuading you in refinishing the entire guitar. It's not Finishing 101. Even an "OK" job of refinishing will look tacky compared to the current finish. I've been in the business for decades and I admit that I simply cannot do GREAT finishes. I'm not ashamed to admit it as I know my strengths and weaknesses within the craft. As a matter of fact, several high end custom builders subcontract finishing work as their skill level of that task is sub-par to their building and design prowess.
BTW: Martin 16 series of instruments are a tremendous value and you get a lot of great tone in an attractive instrument at a really great price. I recommend their 16 series to folks looking to buy their first Martin. Great choice.
Best of luck with the repair and have a super holiday season :)
Paul
p.s Time to hit those leaves again, Hesh :)
Ted it hasn't been mentioned but before applying the inside patch I suggest you re-humidify the guitar. 40-50% RH is your target. This will assist in closing the gap a few thou or so and stabilizes the whole guitar. I really like hot hide glue for these repairs. It cleans up well and is much easier to camouflage than original Titebond.
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