Fret buzz after doing fret jobs lately, Frank, you're the expert on fret work, any ideas? - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T07:15:41Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/fret-buzz-after-doing-fret?feed=yes&xn_auth=noIt won't work on everything. …tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-10-21:2177249:Comment:1885092019-10-21T18:19:18.221ZDavid Kennedyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidKennedy
<p>It won't work on everything. A lot of wound acoustic strings won't give continuity.</p>
<p>Steel strings will work.</p>
<p>I use an ohm meter sometimes to check the middle fret with a rocker. Put the rocker on 3 frets and touch the first and 2nd fret....most of the time if it's a good level you won't get continuity from the first and second fret....one and three will give it...because there's a little relief between the 1st and third fret....unless the neck is perfectly flat and the level…</p>
<p>It won't work on everything. A lot of wound acoustic strings won't give continuity.</p>
<p>Steel strings will work.</p>
<p>I use an ohm meter sometimes to check the middle fret with a rocker. Put the rocker on 3 frets and touch the first and 2nd fret....most of the time if it's a good level you won't get continuity from the first and second fret....one and three will give it...because there's a little relief between the 1st and third fret....unless the neck is perfectly flat and the level dead on.</p>
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<p>this will show that the middle fret is microscopically lower.</p> If you have created a fall-of…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-10-21:2177249:Comment:1885052019-10-21T17:18:44.274ZRichard Baleshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RichardBales
<p>If you have created a fall-off from the 15th fret upward, measuring height at the 17th fret is going to give you as much error at that end as an imperfect nut at the other. Because of the fall-away you need to measure the relief when spanning the 1st to 15th fret and measure your string height somewhere between the 12th and 15th fret - the 12th is the point most often used. Measuring at the 17th fret will require that you also take the fall-off at that point into the equation.</p>
<p>If you have created a fall-off from the 15th fret upward, measuring height at the 17th fret is going to give you as much error at that end as an imperfect nut at the other. Because of the fall-away you need to measure the relief when spanning the 1st to 15th fret and measure your string height somewhere between the 12th and 15th fret - the 12th is the point most often used. Measuring at the 17th fret will require that you also take the fall-off at that point into the equation.</p> You can put 4 or 5 pieces of…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-10-16:2177249:Comment:1883162019-10-16T23:27:38.453ZDavid Kennedyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidKennedy
<p>You can put 4 or 5 pieces of tape on the first fret and use a sanding beam with no sandpaper where it rides over the 1st fret......this will get the lower frets if you have a high one.....I usually go over it normally with a full sanding beam after a very slight angle....very slight!!!! This pretty much gets rid of most of the angle. It becomes microscopic. You'll see the angle moving up the frets if you use sharpy. You will spot a high area if there's one in there.</p>
<p>You can put 4 or 5 pieces of tape on the first fret and use a sanding beam with no sandpaper where it rides over the 1st fret......this will get the lower frets if you have a high one.....I usually go over it normally with a full sanding beam after a very slight angle....very slight!!!! This pretty much gets rid of most of the angle. It becomes microscopic. You'll see the angle moving up the frets if you use sharpy. You will spot a high area if there's one in there.</p> I get the buzz on A and D st…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-10-15:2177249:Comment:1884162019-10-15T16:13:01.375ZDavid Kennedyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidKennedy
<p> I get the buzz on A and D strings when I capo many times after refretting and leveling.</p>
<p>To me a perfect level job will produce no buzz when it's capo'd. It's got to be close to perfect for perfect playing with a capo up the neck.</p>
<p>I think the guys who said the level job is not quite right are correct. I've seen quite a few guitars where the rocker is fine but there's still a little buzz on D string when capo'd from 2 to 5 fret.</p>
<p>I believe the problem is coming from the…</p>
<p> I get the buzz on A and D strings when I capo many times after refretting and leveling.</p>
<p>To me a perfect level job will produce no buzz when it's capo'd. It's got to be close to perfect for perfect playing with a capo up the neck.</p>
<p>I think the guys who said the level job is not quite right are correct. I've seen quite a few guitars where the rocker is fine but there's still a little buzz on D string when capo'd from 2 to 5 fret.</p>
<p>I believe the problem is coming from the neck under stress. It changes things when the strings are on. Things are level when not under stress.....boom...a little wavy when under tension....not enough to hear it with a rocker.</p>
<p>I usually do a slight angled level on the frets from about the 5th fret up......4 or 5 pieces of masking tape on the 5th fret.....only half sandpaper on the leveling beam. Not much angle.....this gives just a sliver of an angle from about the ninth to the end of fingerboard. I believe the 9th to about the 13th fret seems to be the problem areas. </p>
<p>Another thing that helps is leveling the fingerboard on an angle before installing the frets.....this will solve thing sometimes if the end of the neck is rising under stress at the body when you install strings. Put 4 or 5 pieces of tape on the neck at the 7th fret slot (no frets are installed)......half sandpaper on beam.......it sands neck on an angle.....you can use a straight edge and measure under the end of the finger board.....about .015 of space at the end of fingerboard will give enough angle.</p>
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<p>I understand your pain......this is a common problem. In the end....the frets are not perfectly level and the string tension is effecting the level. I've also tried leveling under tension.....split two strings and use a piece of hard wood that's leveled....about 1" by 1"....slide between strings under tension......problem is with this is you get dips when it's level and that's another problem when capoing. (if you're never going to capo it will work) I've used the thomas Ginex system which to me is a waste of time....not accurate enough.....it's fine for smoothing out the frets with fine sandpaper like 600 grit or more but not a good level under tension.</p>
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<p>You can use a truss rod with double sided tape and a slice of sandpaper stuck to it in place of the 1" x 1" piece of hardwood. </p>
<p>Use 3 round head nuts spaced across the neck to get the correct relief in the truss rod.....lever under each string under tension with the normal relief you use in the neck. This works well for frets that are extremely close to level.....it will give you a perfect level under stress. The thing is you only want to kiss the frets....not do a deeper level. Then you get dips. </p>
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<p>this works like the expensive Japanese system...I forget the name of it. You can get a truss rod from aliexpress.com for 6 or so dollars.</p>
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<p>I always glue my frets in on a refret......you don't want one popping up a little.</p>
<p></p> Don't know where to start but…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-04:2177249:Comment:1624702016-09-04T03:46:24.565ZHesh Breakstonehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/HeshBreakstone
<p>Don't know where to start but there is so very much wrong with some of the things said here....</p>
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<p>Obviously the fret plane is not all that.... With this said techniques for precision fret dressing and THEN and only THEN set-up approach, specs, results and checks come into play.</p>
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<p>If your fret plane sucks or is not perfect for very low action it just ain't going to happen for ya.....</p>
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<p>Not everyone wants low action.... Many jazz players prefer bigger…</p>
<p>Don't know where to start but there is so very much wrong with some of the things said here....</p>
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<p>Obviously the fret plane is not all that.... With this said techniques for precision fret dressing and THEN and only THEN set-up approach, specs, results and checks come into play.</p>
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<p>If your fret plane sucks or is not perfect for very low action it just ain't going to happen for ya.....</p>
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<p>Not everyone wants low action.... Many jazz players prefer bigger strings and higher action.... Blue Grass players like Martins Medium spec, 5 - 7 (64ths at the 12th) and that's not exactly low action either.</p>
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<p>Preserving action specs by preserving nut slot depth that is not optimal is not a good idea or approach. Optimal nut slot height is perhaps one of the very most important things to players. It helps the instrument play in tune, eliminates any perceived need IME for nut compensation.... and makes the ax play like butter in the cowboy chord region.</p>
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<p>Although action height is most definitely a function of nut slot depth action height should never be dependent on nut slot height. Or, in other words we set the nut slots first and eliminate the variable with optimized nut slots and then and only then address action with relief and saddle height.</p> There's more than one way to…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-03:2177249:Comment:1625132016-09-03T23:43:49.227ZRobbie Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>There's more than one way to skin a grimalkin.</p>
<p>There's more than one way to skin a grimalkin.</p> Keith
When I have done all th…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-03:2177249:Comment:1623512016-09-03T04:55:34.046ZRon Frazierhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RonFrazier
<p>Keith</p>
<p>When I have done all things adjust truss rod level fret board than strings lower the strings like I want them - all players want them very low action- I tune to pitch pull strings to set them tune again than I play all open strings and listen for buzzing strings and other things I use my thumb to pick with . Then I go to the first few frets and run each string on each fret listening for problem's</p>
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<p>than several places up the neck then check if I want to lower the…</p>
<p>Keith</p>
<p>When I have done all things adjust truss rod level fret board than strings lower the strings like I want them - all players want them very low action- I tune to pitch pull strings to set them tune again than I play all open strings and listen for buzzing strings and other things I use my thumb to pick with . Then I go to the first few frets and run each string on each fret listening for problem's</p>
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<p>than several places up the neck then check if I want to lower the action and if so check each string as before I find each guitar wants to be played and setup as it likes to be. The strings weight neck material ,wood so I set it like it wants to be as the customer likes it than let him play it and tell him to take it and play it at home than it needs more adjusting it is a miner thing to do. When you ask them to play for you at the store they never play like they do at home so if you set it up then you wil never be right. Go for what the guitar tells you what it likes! DO NOT SKIP STEPS!</p>
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<p>I hope this helps.</p>
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<p>ROn</p> I don't really have any contr…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-02:2177249:Comment:1625072016-09-02T21:49:47.802ZKeith Somervillehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/KeithRailton
<p>I don't really have any contribution but surprised at at how few people, apparently, check action at the 17th fret. It's what I've always done on strats. Feeling weird now...</p>
<p>I don't really have any contribution but surprised at at how few people, apparently, check action at the 17th fret. It's what I've always done on strats. Feeling weird now...</p> The lighter the strings, the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-02:2177249:Comment:1626042016-09-02T16:04:36.900ZRon Frazierhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RonFrazier
<p>The lighter the strings, the lower the strings the lighter the pick and the softer the attack.</p>
<p>The harder the attack the heaver the strings need to be and the higher the action</p>
<p>Tune the string than fret the first second and third fret and check the tuning each place.</p>
<p>What do you get? YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO.</p>
<p>Ron</p>
<p>The lighter the strings, the lower the strings the lighter the pick and the softer the attack.</p>
<p>The harder the attack the heaver the strings need to be and the higher the action</p>
<p>Tune the string than fret the first second and third fret and check the tuning each place.</p>
<p>What do you get? YOU KNOW WHAT TO DO.</p>
<p>Ron</p> Thanks for the reply. My feel…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-09-02:2177249:Comment:1625052016-09-02T15:17:00.747Zfretshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/frets
<p>Thanks for the reply. My feelings too. I tried everything I could and what was posted here to eliminate this sort of buzz to no avail. The odd thing is I have some guitars that don't buzz or just the tiniest amount with much lower action than this problem guitar. I can find no discernible difference between them but there is something that is different. The thing that nags me is I don't know what can be done to analyze it as all the tricks posted here have been tried by others as well as me.…</p>
<p>Thanks for the reply. My feelings too. I tried everything I could and what was posted here to eliminate this sort of buzz to no avail. The odd thing is I have some guitars that don't buzz or just the tiniest amount with much lower action than this problem guitar. I can find no discernible difference between them but there is something that is different. The thing that nags me is I don't know what can be done to analyze it as all the tricks posted here have been tried by others as well as me. If there is anything I hate it is "I don't know". It's one thing to not be able to fix something and another to have no idea what the problem really is. Perhaps this sort of thing could be analyzed at a university with advanced imaging tools. That could pinpoint and offer an explanation to this kind of problem. It would be worth it if someone had the resources. Many others have this same problem and no one seems to have a hard solution.</p>