Glued bridge on Silvertone (wrong spot) - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T13:56:57Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/glued-bridge-on-silvertone-wrong-spot?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A144635&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI somehow knew it was a doubl…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-25:2177249:Comment:1449212015-03-25T09:16:41.366ZDemetry Merkuloffhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DemetryMerkuloff
<p>I somehow knew it was a double-side tape :))))</p>
<p>I somehow knew it was a double-side tape :))))</p> Sorry guys, haven't got aroun…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-24:2177249:Comment:1450962015-03-24T17:43:11.707ZPim Boerdijkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PimBoerdijk
<p>Sorry guys, haven't got around to updating you yet.</p>
<p>After heating the bridge up, it came off quite easily (and very clean too). I found out no glue was used, it was double-sided tape which had gotten a very good stick over time. I couldn't move it one bit, but heat did the trick.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The owner wanted to give the stock bridge another go, but I think he'll be back soon to have me put on another bridge.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks everyone!</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Sorry guys, haven't got around to updating you yet.</p>
<p>After heating the bridge up, it came off quite easily (and very clean too). I found out no glue was used, it was double-sided tape which had gotten a very good stick over time. I couldn't move it one bit, but heat did the trick.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The owner wanted to give the stock bridge another go, but I think he'll be back soon to have me put on another bridge.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks everyone!</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> I would dribble just a little…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-19:2177249:Comment:1448042015-03-19T12:53:02.461ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
I would dribble just a little warm water on the area, and see if any glue changes color or loosens up. Be ready with some denatured alcohol to quickly wipe over th area if the finish starts to cloud.
I would dribble just a little warm water on the area, and see if any glue changes color or loosens up. Be ready with some denatured alcohol to quickly wipe over th area if the finish starts to cloud. I'm pretty sure that the cust…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1447472015-03-18T22:49:00.041ZPim Boerdijkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PimBoerdijk
<p>I'm pretty sure that the customer would love a rollerbridge, I just haven't come across any 9.5" radius ones:) Thanks for the advice on the bridge. I have an old Dutch archtop with the same fretwire/saddle idea. I was thinking that I could also use a normal T.O.M. and file the saddles to match the FB radius and round the tops of the saddles.</p>
<p></p>
<p>But still: preferably a roller bridge, just haven't found the right one yet.</p>
<p>I'm pretty sure that the customer would love a rollerbridge, I just haven't come across any 9.5" radius ones:) Thanks for the advice on the bridge. I have an old Dutch archtop with the same fretwire/saddle idea. I was thinking that I could also use a normal T.O.M. and file the saddles to match the FB radius and round the tops of the saddles.</p>
<p></p>
<p>But still: preferably a roller bridge, just haven't found the right one yet.</p> Pim,
Thanks for the correctio…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1448002015-03-18T22:41:30.230ZPaul Verticchiohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Pim,</p>
<p>Thanks for the correction on the bridge. After more research (beyond the 'one's I've worked on or played'), it seems some of these had that bridge as stock equipment.</p>
<p>Hagstrom also supplied Guild Guitars with parts during that era.</p>
<p>Personally, I wouldn't invest a penny in re-engineering the existing bridge. Silk purse/sow's ear applies.</p>
<p>If the owner doesn't wish to go with a roller bridge, I'd modify a standard wooden bridge as follows:</p>
<p>Radius the top…</p>
<p>Pim,</p>
<p>Thanks for the correction on the bridge. After more research (beyond the 'one's I've worked on or played'), it seems some of these had that bridge as stock equipment.</p>
<p>Hagstrom also supplied Guild Guitars with parts during that era.</p>
<p>Personally, I wouldn't invest a penny in re-engineering the existing bridge. Silk purse/sow's ear applies.</p>
<p>If the owner doesn't wish to go with a roller bridge, I'd modify a standard wooden bridge as follows:</p>
<p>Radius the top of the bridge to match the FB. Remove about 1/8" of stock from the top of the bridge to expose a wide flat (front to back) platform . Cut slots in the bridge top to accept two pieces of fretwire. Install the fretwire and you'll have an relatively intonatable SMOOTH surface for the strings to move across without hanging up on hard angles. Here's what you're going for looking down to the top of the saddle:</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750733?profile=original"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750733?profile=original" width="428"/></a>This is TRULY the fun part of the craft when we get to be creative in our solutions.</p>
<p>Again, thanks for the additional info.</p>
<p>Paul :)</p> Hello Pim,
Sorry, just now…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1447982015-03-18T22:08:54.133ZJelle van Tilburghttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JellevanTilburg
<p>Hello Pim, </p>
<p></p>
<p>Sorry, just now noticed the straightedge/marks above the bridge. That is quite a bit off allright!</p>
<p>Hello Pim, </p>
<p></p>
<p>Sorry, just now noticed the straightedge/marks above the bridge. That is quite a bit off allright!</p> Hi Jelle, thanks for your rep…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1447962015-03-18T22:04:17.281ZPim Boerdijkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PimBoerdijk
<p>Hi Jelle, thanks for your reply. I understand where you're coming from, but that would mean 5 new saddles, which would probably pivot the bass-side of the saddle. A quarter of an inch is quite some extra travel without moving the bridge. Also the customer wouldn't mind a bit of lacquer damage if it means he can use this (let's be honest) nice sounding guitar in the studio and on stage again!</p>
<p>Hi Jelle, thanks for your reply. I understand where you're coming from, but that would mean 5 new saddles, which would probably pivot the bass-side of the saddle. A quarter of an inch is quite some extra travel without moving the bridge. Also the customer wouldn't mind a bit of lacquer damage if it means he can use this (let's be honest) nice sounding guitar in the studio and on stage again!</p> Hello Pim,
Not a fan of the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1444772015-03-18T22:00:26.296ZJelle van Tilburghttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JellevanTilburg
<p>Hello Pim, </p>
<p></p>
<p>Not a fan of these bridges, but not a fan of unnecessarily risking any damage to the lacquer/finish either.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Maybe a bit of a side road, but you could opt for 3 or 4 new saddles (with contact/intonation point further back). Someone with a mill/ machine shop could make these easy enough. I wouldn't be able to predict the cost of this but.</p>
<p>Hello Pim, </p>
<p></p>
<p>Not a fan of these bridges, but not a fan of unnecessarily risking any damage to the lacquer/finish either.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Maybe a bit of a side road, but you could opt for 3 or 4 new saddles (with contact/intonation point further back). Someone with a mill/ machine shop could make these easy enough. I wouldn't be able to predict the cost of this but.</p> I just thought of something.…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1447452015-03-18T21:30:48.183ZPim Boerdijkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PimBoerdijk
<p>I just thought of something. Although a rollerbridge would be best, I have never come across a 9.5" radius rollerbridge (just 12" and 14"). I believe Mosrite rollerbridges are 9", but those things are very high which would not really work (neck is already shimmed). </p>
<p>Any thoughts? Or other ideas for a bridge upgrade, if no rollerbridge?</p>
<p>I just thought of something. Although a rollerbridge would be best, I have never come across a 9.5" radius rollerbridge (just 12" and 14"). I believe Mosrite rollerbridges are 9", but those things are very high which would not really work (neck is already shimmed). </p>
<p>Any thoughts? Or other ideas for a bridge upgrade, if no rollerbridge?</p> Very useful, thank you. I'll…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-18:2177249:Comment:1446482015-03-18T20:57:37.089ZPim Boerdijkhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PimBoerdijk
<p>Very useful, thank you. I'll first try to remove it with heat and otherwise resort to tapping it.</p>
<p></p>
<p>About the rollerbridge: couldn't agree with you more, I'll contact the owner and recommend it. If I can, I'll salvage the base. If not, I'll make a new one. About the originality of the bridge: I think they might've actually changed from the wooden saddle to the hagstrom style bridge (I've seen those bridges on some other 1485's too, which doesn't mean they were stock but…</p>
<p>Very useful, thank you. I'll first try to remove it with heat and otherwise resort to tapping it.</p>
<p></p>
<p>About the rollerbridge: couldn't agree with you more, I'll contact the owner and recommend it. If I can, I'll salvage the base. If not, I'll make a new one. About the originality of the bridge: I think they might've actually changed from the wooden saddle to the hagstrom style bridge (I've seen those bridges on some other 1485's too, which doesn't mean they were stock but perhaps?)</p>
<p>Yes, I'll stay away from acetone or other solvents. I used some compressed air to get rid of some dust and the lacquer already started flying off.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I'll post an update here tomorrow, hopefully letting you guys know that I got the bridge off without a lot of hassle.</p>