Help with neck reset...what method to taper heel? - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T17:20:05Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-neck-reset-what-method-to-taper-heel?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A120386&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI highly recommend the Dan Er…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-15:2177249:Comment:1679882017-03-15T13:59:16.492ZDave Richardhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveRichard
I highly recommend the Dan Erlewine/ Stewmac video on neck resets. I found it extremely helpful, and it explains well most of the steps required. Be aware, the the calculation( described in the video), of how much to remove from the heel, should be made with the strings on, under tension, before the neck is removed. Otherwise, it's a guessing game.
I highly recommend the Dan Erlewine/ Stewmac video on neck resets. I found it extremely helpful, and it explains well most of the steps required. Be aware, the the calculation( described in the video), of how much to remove from the heel, should be made with the strings on, under tension, before the neck is removed. Otherwise, it's a guessing game. I've used chisel, sandpaper a…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-14:2177249:Comment:1678002017-03-14T19:38:45.282Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>I've used chisel, sandpaper and sanding sticks (pioneered by Brian Gallop iirc). Chisels first, and only if a lot of material must come off, otherwise, sanding sticks to move fast, then the sandpaper strips (backed with clear tape for strength) to make the final fit.</p>
<p>Another tip to add to the above, mask off your body with low tack tape, or the pulling of the sandpaper will leave little scratches. I also use lacquer solvent along the edge of the heel and touch up markers (for…</p>
<p>I've used chisel, sandpaper and sanding sticks (pioneered by Brian Gallop iirc). Chisels first, and only if a lot of material must come off, otherwise, sanding sticks to move fast, then the sandpaper strips (backed with clear tape for strength) to make the final fit.</p>
<p>Another tip to add to the above, mask off your body with low tack tape, or the pulling of the sandpaper will leave little scratches. I also use lacquer solvent along the edge of the heel and touch up markers (for furniture) to tone down any white wood exposed by the reset. Helps with a nice, clean looking heel/body joint.</p>
<p>BTW, don't forget to frequently check your E/e string alignment as you remove material.</p>
<p>Tom</p> I THINK the OP is referring t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-14:2177249:Comment:1674782017-03-14T19:03:38.648ZCarl Mesrobianhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/CarlMesrobian
<p>I THINK the OP is referring to the flat area that would define the new scribe line for the new neck angle, no? And that guides a chisel along the new scribe line..</p>
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<p>I THINK the OP is referring to the flat area that would define the new scribe line for the new neck angle, no? And that guides a chisel along the new scribe line..</p>
<p></p> ". . . the underside of the h…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-14:2177249:Comment:1677952017-03-14T18:27:33.024ZHoward Klepperhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/HowardKlepper
<p>". . . the underside of the heel clamped between a flat planing surface that would guide the cut."</p>
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<p>"Between" implies two objects on either side of a third. Between a flat planing surface and what? Without a photo, I have no idea what you are talking about. (Although I have noticed that often others seem to need less information than I do before giving an answer to a question.)</p>
<p>". . . the underside of the heel clamped between a flat planing surface that would guide the cut."</p>
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<p>"Between" implies two objects on either side of a third. Between a flat planing surface and what? Without a photo, I have no idea what you are talking about. (Although I have noticed that often others seem to need less information than I do before giving an answer to a question.)</p> I've made a wooden caul from…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-14:2177249:Comment:1678892017-03-14T18:18:41.640ZCarl Mesrobianhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/CarlMesrobian
<p>I've made a wooden caul from a piece of scrap maple that is flat on one surface and curved on the surface that goes against the vise jaw. It allows one to hold tapered parts nicely. Also I often use a piece of 1/2" Homasote on each jaw to prevent dinging up the part. I have a "luthiers" vice with padding glued to the swiveling wooden jaws. Here's a pic of the caul for a plain old carpenter's vice. It is low, though (better seated at it), and the bench mounted luthier (with pivoting jaws) or…</p>
<p>I've made a wooden caul from a piece of scrap maple that is flat on one surface and curved on the surface that goes against the vise jaw. It allows one to hold tapered parts nicely. Also I often use a piece of 1/2" Homasote on each jaw to prevent dinging up the part. I have a "luthiers" vice with padding glued to the swiveling wooden jaws. Here's a pic of the caul for a plain old carpenter's vice. It is low, though (better seated at it), and the bench mounted luthier (with pivoting jaws) or parrot style vices are easier on the back.<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761536?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761536?profile=original" width="320" class="align-full"/></a></p> I've had great luck with the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-19:2177249:Comment:1201452013-10-19T14:07:30.479ZMark Pollockhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>I've had great luck with the giant rolls of cheap sandpaper at Harbor Freight. It loads just terribly, but it works quite well.</p>
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<p>If you have undercut the wood by the tenon, you can then use a chisel to remove the bulk of the wood up to the line you need to cut to, then finish off with the sandpaper. Don't be too aggressive with the roughest paper, you can tear out some wood that way.</p>
<p>I've had great luck with the giant rolls of cheap sandpaper at Harbor Freight. It loads just terribly, but it works quite well.</p>
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<p>If you have undercut the wood by the tenon, you can then use a chisel to remove the bulk of the wood up to the line you need to cut to, then finish off with the sandpaper. Don't be too aggressive with the roughest paper, you can tear out some wood that way.</p> I noticed that the national r…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-18:2177249:Comment:1201432013-10-18T21:57:41.783ZFrank Capohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FredCapo
I noticed that the national reso replacement neck has a large hollow area at the heel to minimize material removal. I need to improve upon my present vise...not very maneuverable... A better luthiers vise should facilitate the operation.<br />
Sandpaper advice appreciated. Thanks
I noticed that the national reso replacement neck has a large hollow area at the heel to minimize material removal. I need to improve upon my present vise...not very maneuverable... A better luthiers vise should facilitate the operation.<br />
Sandpaper advice appreciated. Thanks After a lot of stumbling with…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-18:2177249:Comment:1203922013-10-18T19:17:26.020ZMike Kolbhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKolb
<p>After a lot of stumbling with chisels, I've settled on using only sandpaper strips to take the heel angle down. Sure, it's slow, but there's a larger "safety factor" in doing it slowly. The only time I'll use a chisel these days is to undercut the cheeks adjacent the neck tail which, as Hesh notes, cuts down the area that needs attention.</p>
<p>The MicroMark mylar product is good, and I also use cloth-backed strips of abrasive rolls in different grits. The current best-bang-for-the-buck…</p>
<p>After a lot of stumbling with chisels, I've settled on using only sandpaper strips to take the heel angle down. Sure, it's slow, but there's a larger "safety factor" in doing it slowly. The only time I'll use a chisel these days is to undercut the cheeks adjacent the neck tail which, as Hesh notes, cuts down the area that needs attention.</p>
<p>The MicroMark mylar product is good, and I also use cloth-backed strips of abrasive rolls in different grits. The current best-bang-for-the-buck comes from Harbor Freight, they sell a box of 4 different grits in 20ft lengths for $10. They're strong but tend to be on the thick side, so the mylar (polyester, actually) from Micromark gets used for the final fit. </p>
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<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167746370?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167746370?profile=original" width="440" class="align-full"/></a></p> I cut strips from mylar-backe…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-18:2177249:Comment:1201372013-10-18T18:21:03.649ZGreg Mirkenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GregMirken
I cut strips from mylar-backed 'sandpaper' I get from MicroMark. Also undercut the heel with a chisel so only the margin needs to be sanded. As the contact area grows, undercut again.
I cut strips from mylar-backed 'sandpaper' I get from MicroMark. Also undercut the heel with a chisel so only the margin needs to be sanded. As the contact area grows, undercut again. A tip for flossing your cheek…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-18:2177249:Comment:1203042013-10-18T14:47:08.487ZHesh Breakstonehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/HeshBreakstone
<p>A tip for flossing your cheeks... (fitting the cheeks to the sides...) is to stick clear packing tape on the back of your sandpaper strips and they will resist tearing much better and last longer.</p>
<p>A tip for flossing your cheeks... (fitting the cheeks to the sides...) is to stick clear packing tape on the back of your sandpaper strips and they will resist tearing much better and last longer.</p>