Hohner HG-512 12 string neck joint? - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T21:39:13Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/hohner-hg-512-12-string-neck-joint?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A283936&feed=yes&xn_auth=noGood show John!
tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-03-10:2177249:Comment:2840502022-03-10T20:23:53.160ZJay Lowehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JayLowe928
<p>Good show John!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Good show John!</p>
<p></p> The deed is done.
Consensus…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-03-10:2177249:Comment:2838442022-03-10T18:40:31.615ZJohn Yungbluthhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnYungbluth
<p>The deed is done.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Consensus of my inquiries was a butt/dowel joint, and that what I found inside. 5 dowels, 2 directly under the fingerboard on each side of the truss rod, and 3 dead center down the heel. </p>
<p></p>
<p>First I did pull the 15th fret and drill/probe for a dovetail pocket. After getting through the fingerboard it only came up with a two tone sawdust, no feel of hitting a pocket. After the neck was off I found the reason for two tone sawdust. The neck block…</p>
<p>The deed is done.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Consensus of my inquiries was a butt/dowel joint, and that what I found inside. 5 dowels, 2 directly under the fingerboard on each side of the truss rod, and 3 dead center down the heel. </p>
<p></p>
<p>First I did pull the 15th fret and drill/probe for a dovetail pocket. After getting through the fingerboard it only came up with a two tone sawdust, no feel of hitting a pocket. After the neck was off I found the reason for two tone sawdust. The neck block was made out of alternating laminate wood. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Again, thanks everyone for your insight and opinions.<a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10200499876?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10200499876?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10200500483?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10200500483?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> Jay,
Thanks for your time and…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-03-01:2177249:Comment:2838272022-03-01T05:48:44.935ZJohn Yungbluthhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnYungbluth
<p>Jay,</p>
<p>Thanks for your time and insight on this. </p>
<p>This is what I'm looking for, opinion and insight.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Jay,</p>
<p>Thanks for your time and insight on this. </p>
<p>This is what I'm looking for, opinion and insight.</p>
<p></p> In my opinion Bridge Doctors…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-03-01:2177249:Comment:2837502022-03-01T05:20:13.137ZJay Lowehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JayLowe928
<p>In my opinion Bridge Doctors make for a good conversation piece. That's about it. I've seen one, installed zero. I know of no reason why a bolt-on conversion shouldn't work on a 12 string. I wouldn't be scared to do it at all. I've seen instruments with the fingerboard cut above the body joint but it seems to me you would lose a lot strength in that area and I would be reluctant to do it. Others may have more experience with it than I do.</p>
<p></p>
<p>In my opinion Bridge Doctors make for a good conversation piece. That's about it. I've seen one, installed zero. I know of no reason why a bolt-on conversion shouldn't work on a 12 string. I wouldn't be scared to do it at all. I've seen instruments with the fingerboard cut above the body joint but it seems to me you would lose a lot strength in that area and I would be reluctant to do it. Others may have more experience with it than I do.</p>
<p></p> As you can see, I'm right on…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-03-01:2177249:Comment:2837492022-03-01T04:36:05.661ZJohn Yungbluthhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnYungbluth
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733866?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733866?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a> <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733879?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733879?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a> <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158743671?profile=original" rel="noopener" target="_blank"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158743671?profile=RESIZE_710x"></img></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733866?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733866?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733879?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158733879?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158743671?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158743671?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158744253?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10158744253?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a>As you can see, I'm right on the edge of needing a neck reset. </p>
<p>I've got a temporary wood insert and plastic saddle that duplicates the original in place. Once I get everything figured out I'll drop in a rosewood and bone combination with some options for adjustments to make for better intonation. I do have some work to do on the nut to drop the strings evenly across the bottom level of it's radius. That should give me a little lower action. I'm at full tension strings and feel I can ease the strings down a little more at the saddle. But I'm running out of saddle on the treble side. I've cut ramps since the pictures to increase the break angle.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Another possibility is that the difference in the top upward movement between no tension and full tension is about + .027. At that amount of rise, could a Bridge Doctor be used to hold the top in the no tension position and maybe put the neck reset off for a few more years?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've done 6-7 bolt on conversions over the years, but always on six string guitars, and always to keep the guitar playable. I've often wondered if a 12 string would hold up.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Any insight on the Bridge Doctor option? </p>
<p></p>
<p>Even if it comes up short, and a reset is needed, it will keep the top from flexing as much over the years.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks in advance.</p> I saw recently were a fingerb…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-02-28:2177249:Comment:2838232022-02-28T17:56:24.352ZCarl Dickinsonhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/CarlDickinson
<p>I saw recently were a fingerboard was cut at the 12th fret (on a 14 fret neck join) to determine the neck joint. I haven't done it this way myself but the repairman said it helps the reconnect of the fingerboard extension line up better.</p>
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<p>I saw recently were a fingerboard was cut at the 12th fret (on a 14 fret neck join) to determine the neck joint. I haven't done it this way myself but the repairman said it helps the reconnect of the fingerboard extension line up better.</p>
<p></p> It was a long time ago and I'…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-02-27:2177249:Comment:2839362022-02-27T19:10:53.626ZJay Lowehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JayLowe928
<p>It was a long time ago and I'm working with a bad memory here. I'd seen both a Hohner and an Epiphone built that way previously so I guessed at it and happened to be correct. I try not to spend any more time than I have to with these types of instruments and cutting the neck off is far easier than anything else. I use an electric bone saw. Taking your time it's about a 10 minute job.</p>
<p></p>
<p>It was a long time ago and I'm working with a bad memory here. I'd seen both a Hohner and an Epiphone built that way previously so I guessed at it and happened to be correct. I try not to spend any more time than I have to with these types of instruments and cutting the neck off is far easier than anything else. I use an electric bone saw. Taking your time it's about a 10 minute job.</p>
<p></p> Thanks for the response, can…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-02-27:2177249:Comment:2840122022-02-27T18:56:14.288ZJohn Yungbluthhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnYungbluth
<p>Thanks for the response, can I ask a few defining questions here? </p>
<p></p>
<p>The Hohner you observed, was there separation between the heel and the body so that you could see or probe to determine a butt/dowel joint? Or did you have to cut the fingerboard off at the 14 fret and make the determination looking down at the joint?</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for the response, can I ask a few defining questions here? </p>
<p></p>
<p>The Hohner you observed, was there separation between the heel and the body so that you could see or probe to determine a butt/dowel joint? Or did you have to cut the fingerboard off at the 14 fret and make the determination looking down at the joint?</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> The only similar instrument I…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2022-02-27:2177249:Comment:2840092022-02-27T04:17:24.390ZJay Lowehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JayLowe928
<p>The only similar instrument I've seen was not a 12 string. It had three dowels through the neck block into the neck heel. I cut the neck off and turned it into a bolt-on.</p>
<p>The only similar instrument I've seen was not a 12 string. It had three dowels through the neck block into the neck heel. I cut the neck off and turned it into a bolt-on.</p>