How to fix a warped archtop top? - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T00:44:23Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/how-to-fix-a-warped-archtop-top?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A126935&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI just re-read your post and…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-15:2177249:Comment:1274502014-02-15T15:36:11.910Zsteve hewitthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/stevehewitt
<p>I just re-read your post and it makes sense now. More coffee for me next time I come on here! :)</p>
<p>I just re-read your post and it makes sense now. More coffee for me next time I come on here! :)</p> Robbie, The plaster cast I me…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-14:2177249:Comment:1270552014-02-14T19:30:35.451ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>Robbie, The plaster cast I mentioned earlier is a mirror image of the top. You don't need a 3D printer to make one. As Rusty pointed out in his first post, the real issue isn't IF this guitar's top can be reshaped so much as it is what is required to correct the general failure of the design to support the top in the first place It's not going to be nearly enough to reshape the top. </p>
<p>Robbie, The plaster cast I mentioned earlier is a mirror image of the top. You don't need a 3D printer to make one. As Rusty pointed out in his first post, the real issue isn't IF this guitar's top can be reshaped so much as it is what is required to correct the general failure of the design to support the top in the first place It's not going to be nearly enough to reshape the top. </p> For a $200, poorly made to be…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-14:2177249:Comment:1271842014-02-14T19:23:27.106ZPaul Verticchiohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>For a $200, poorly made to begin with instrument? That would be like using a sledge hammer to kill a flea. ;)</p>
<p>Like Ned said, it's more cost effective to build one properly from scratch.</p>
<p>For a $200, poorly made to begin with instrument? That would be like using a sledge hammer to kill a flea. ;)</p>
<p>Like Ned said, it's more cost effective to build one properly from scratch.</p> From what I understand, lamin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-14:2177249:Comment:1271832014-02-14T15:26:41.648ZRobbie Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>From what I understand, laminated tops are pressed into shape using a mold and heat. If you had the original mold then the top (with bracing removed could be placed on top of the mold and hot sand bags used to recreate the shape.</p>
<p>I couldn't find the photo essay I referenced but it doesn't matter. From what I understand you can't mirror image a mold mechanically. It has to be done digitally using a 3D scanner.</p>
<p>There is a company called Digital Dimensions that can create a image…</p>
<p>From what I understand, laminated tops are pressed into shape using a mold and heat. If you had the original mold then the top (with bracing removed could be placed on top of the mold and hot sand bags used to recreate the shape.</p>
<p>I couldn't find the photo essay I referenced but it doesn't matter. From what I understand you can't mirror image a mold mechanically. It has to be done digitally using a 3D scanner.</p>
<p>There is a company called Digital Dimensions that can create a image for cutting a plaster mold via CNC.</p>
<p>Check the reply by DirDim in this thread: <a href="http://www.sculpture.net/community/showthread.php?t=3341" target="_blank">http://www.sculpture.net/community/showthread.php?t=3341</a></p>
<p>You could make a DIY 3D Laser scanner fairly inexpensively with a laser level, a web cam, and some free software:<br/> <br/> <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.david-laserscanner.com/" target="_blank">http://www.david-laserscanner.com/</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>The image then could be used to carve a plaster or wooden positive of the top using CNC.</p>
<p>I'm not saying this is cost effective in this particular case.</p> I'm sorry, what?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-14:2177249:Comment:1269352014-02-14T14:20:36.066Zsteve hewitthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/stevehewitt
<p>I'm sorry, what?</p>
<p>I'm sorry, what?</p> I seem to recall seeing a pho…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-14:2177249:Comment:1270472014-02-14T01:04:03.903ZRobbie Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>I seem to recall seeing a photo essay where a mold was made of the underside of the top, additional material added to the sunken area after the mold was separated from the top, and then the mold was carved so that the sunken side matched the opposite side. Finally, the top was positioned over the mold and heat and sandbags applied.</p>
<p>I seem to recall seeing a photo essay where a mold was made of the underside of the top, additional material added to the sunken area after the mold was separated from the top, and then the mold was carved so that the sunken side matched the opposite side. Finally, the top was positioned over the mold and heat and sandbags applied.</p> Thanks Rusty. I thought about…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-13:2177249:Comment:1270452014-02-13T18:36:27.138ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>Thanks Rusty. I thought about it after I posted last night and realized that I was talking about a pretty extensive and expensive "repair". It probably wouldn't be any more work to just make a new guitar. what I'm suggesting is the sort of quagmire that never gets finished. </p>
<p>It's hard for me to have a guitar in hand and then make the decision to not fix it. I've had to do this a couple of times and I don't like it but it's really a let down to put my effort into something that turns…</p>
<p>Thanks Rusty. I thought about it after I posted last night and realized that I was talking about a pretty extensive and expensive "repair". It probably wouldn't be any more work to just make a new guitar. what I'm suggesting is the sort of quagmire that never gets finished. </p>
<p>It's hard for me to have a guitar in hand and then make the decision to not fix it. I've had to do this a couple of times and I don't like it but it's really a let down to put my effort into something that turns out to be a piece of junk anyway. It easy to get excited about the idea of playing "that old guitar" and loose sight of the realities of the situation. I've found that most of the time, I will finish a repair and realize that I don't really like the instrument as much as I thought I would. It's a hard lesson but it has made me better at deciding where to put my time and energy. One truth I finally learned is that there is always another old instrument waiting to be fixed so sometimes it better to move on.</p> If it's a customer's guitar,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-13:2177249:Comment:1271132014-02-13T12:09:41.828ZPaul Verticchiohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>If it's a customer's guitar, the FAIR repair price will far exceed the value of the instrument, especially if it's an Italian made Vox (EKO). If it's made in England, maybe not. In both instances, most players consider vintage Vox instruments to be novelties.</p>
<p>It would have to hold a LOT of sentimental value to justify the repair costs, especially given the amount of touch-ups required in light the removal of the top & back. The repair bill could much better be used by it's owner…</p>
<p>If it's a customer's guitar, the FAIR repair price will far exceed the value of the instrument, especially if it's an Italian made Vox (EKO). If it's made in England, maybe not. In both instances, most players consider vintage Vox instruments to be novelties.</p>
<p>It would have to hold a LOT of sentimental value to justify the repair costs, especially given the amount of touch-ups required in light the removal of the top & back. The repair bill could much better be used by it's owner to buy a nice Lakland Bass...or a used Alembic...or just a good stock P-Bass..</p>
<p>If it's your guitar, cost isn't a factor. Before proceeding further, make sure the truss rod is operating properly and the neck hasn't twisted or become permanently distorted over the years (2 more Vox 'known problems'). And... IMO, 9/32 at the 12th fret for a bass isn't what I consider to be excessively high action. Most pros prefer higher actions than that.</p>
<p>I can't support Rusty enough in his observation that it is simply a <em>VERY</em> poor design with even poorer construction. These were 'cheap' (not to be confused with 'inexpensive') instruments when they were new. Demand (for about 6 months) far exceeded supply and they were literally <em>thrown together</em> just to get them into retail stores.</p>
<p>I remember these vividly when I was playing in the '60's. Once their owners' "I have a Vox" shine wore off (and it did.. quickly), they sold them faster than lightning. Why? The pickups are lousy (by contemporary standards of expectation) and they couldn't get to stage volume without feeding back and howling like a dingo. BTW: that applies to all Vox hollowbody instruments from that era.. Remember, this is the same company that thought it was prudent to put vibrato arms on ALL of their 12 strings. Doh!!</p>
<p>However, it <em>would</em> make a VERY attractive display item (wall hanger) with minimal reassembly. Or firewood.</p>
<p>However you proceed, may you have the best of luck and we'd love to see photos of the finished project, if that's what you choose to do :)</p>
<p></p> Hi Ned,
I suggest if we look…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-13:2177249:Comment:1267802014-02-13T10:11:13.817ZRussell Vancehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellVance
<p>Hi Ned,</p>
<p>I suggest if we look at a few more of these tired old "cats" we will find it all the same. </p>
<p>The solution to this problem is "whatever it takes". That's not to be cavalier about it but the problem speaks to itself - it's bad design and anything you can do to make it stable and give these poor instruments a chance at a new stable life is good. </p>
<p>A neck heel into a through block incorporating the top the back and the tail block would do the trick, but, I have…</p>
<p>Hi Ned,</p>
<p>I suggest if we look at a few more of these tired old "cats" we will find it all the same. </p>
<p>The solution to this problem is "whatever it takes". That's not to be cavalier about it but the problem speaks to itself - it's bad design and anything you can do to make it stable and give these poor instruments a chance at a new stable life is good. </p>
<p>A neck heel into a through block incorporating the top the back and the tail block would do the trick, but, I have no idea about whether these instruments are worth the cost of such a drastic repair. The other thing is that the front pickup hole further weakens everything and provides less fix bearing area than the 12's, which is leading me to suggest this may just be a bridge too far on this instrument.</p>
<p>And, Fanatic, I'm sorry but I don't have any pictures of the graphite fix - but, I'm thinking that it's going to be even less effective and maybe just hang it on the wall. Anybody? </p>
<p>Rusty.</p> Rusty,
Remembering just how…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-13:2177249:Comment:1270352014-02-13T06:52:16.331ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>Rusty,</p>
<p> Remembering just how ignorant I am of all things electric, would it be easier to remove the neck and tail blocks and replace them with a, for lack of a better word, plank of mahogany to make it sort of through body guitar?</p>
<p>Rusty,</p>
<p> Remembering just how ignorant I am of all things electric, would it be easier to remove the neck and tail blocks and replace them with a, for lack of a better word, plank of mahogany to make it sort of through body guitar?</p>