Maple fretboard restore opinions needed - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T09:43:10Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/maple-fretboard-restore-opinions-needed?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A163219&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noLol! fat horse ;)
yes you ar…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-18:2177249:Comment:1632192016-10-18T20:01:50.181ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
Lol! fat horse ;)<br />
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yes you are right. I'm with my nose on the details and might overlook it. a 'naked' fretboard reviels a lot more than a stringed one, with the strings casting shadows etc. For some reason I'm freaky over this one, always had that with rg's and jems. can't stand damage on these models ;)
Lol! fat horse ;)<br />
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yes you are right. I'm with my nose on the details and might overlook it. a 'naked' fretboard reviels a lot more than a stringed one, with the strings casting shadows etc. For some reason I'm freaky over this one, always had that with rg's and jems. can't stand damage on these models ;) My personal opinion is that a…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-18:2177249:Comment:1632912016-10-18T19:45:14.332ZNed Knepphttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>My personal opinion is that a used guitar can/should look used. From the pictures, it seems to me that the gray will pretty much disappear when strings are installed anyway. It's sort of like looking at an incomplete painting with only the background painted. When picture is complete, the background won't be as much of a focus.</p>
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<p>As my dad used to say; "A man on a fast horse won't see it." </p>
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<p>My personal opinion is that a used guitar can/should look used. From the pictures, it seems to me that the gray will pretty much disappear when strings are installed anyway. It's sort of like looking at an incomplete painting with only the background painted. When picture is complete, the background won't be as much of a focus.</p>
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<p>As my dad used to say; "A man on a fast horse won't see it." </p>
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<p></p> hmmm, thx, valid point! I mig…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-18:2177249:Comment:1632882016-10-18T14:34:56.080ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
hmmm, thx, valid point! I might test it on another piece of wood to see how it reacts.
hmmm, thx, valid point! I might test it on another piece of wood to see how it reacts. Oxalic Acid is best suited fo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-18:2177249:Comment:1631222016-10-18T14:30:15.684ZPaul Breenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulBreen
<p>Oxalic Acid is best suited for removing mineral stains like rust when the wood is in contact with steel, not so good for oil and grim left from fingers. De-ionized water may help get a bit more cleaned out than what you have already done but you'll likely not get rid of the shadows without sanding. I would avoid any bleach solution, you run the risk of lightening the clean Maple and making the dark areas show up worse.</p>
<p>Oxalic Acid is best suited for removing mineral stains like rust when the wood is in contact with steel, not so good for oil and grim left from fingers. De-ionized water may help get a bit more cleaned out than what you have already done but you'll likely not get rid of the shadows without sanding. I would avoid any bleach solution, you run the risk of lightening the clean Maple and making the dark areas show up worse.</p> after some research, I'd go f…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-17:2177249:Comment:1632142016-10-17T19:25:42.861ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
after some research, I'd go for birchwood casey tru oil.
after some research, I'd go for birchwood casey tru oil. Thanks for the ellaborate rep…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-17:2177249:Comment:1630772016-10-17T19:23:02.890ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
Thanks for the ellaborate reply! ;) Learning here.<br />
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Bleach solutions ... I'll have to be very carefull with that. Have you ever tried clorox sticks by any chance?
Thanks for the ellaborate reply! ;) Learning here.<br />
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Bleach solutions ... I'll have to be very carefull with that. Have you ever tried clorox sticks by any chance? Hi SB,
We often dress fingerb…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-16:2177249:Comment:1630672016-10-16T23:25:08.516ZRussell Vancehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellVance
<p>Hi SB,</p>
<p>We often dress fingerboards that have divots, unevenness and general roughness by lightly shaving the surface with a mini scraper (generally a Stanley knife blade), back and forth, paying attention to the grain orientation and getting a clean start to the stroke very close to the edge of the fret. Normally roll the fingerboard edge while we are doing this and then go over everything with a conformal sanding stick (220/320 grit backwards and forward, not across grain) and then…</p>
<p>Hi SB,</p>
<p>We often dress fingerboards that have divots, unevenness and general roughness by lightly shaving the surface with a mini scraper (generally a Stanley knife blade), back and forth, paying attention to the grain orientation and getting a clean start to the stroke very close to the edge of the fret. Normally roll the fingerboard edge while we are doing this and then go over everything with a conformal sanding stick (220/320 grit backwards and forward, not across grain) and then scrub everything with 0000 steel wool.</p>
<p>Use the "Swedish Method" - same number of stokes, pressure and alternating orientation and and let the fingerboard radius guide the scraper.</p>
<p>This will physically clean the surface and give you a consistent and "new" surface to apply whatever finish you wish. If you are going to use tung or linseed I suggest you thin the initial coats 50/50 with citrus terpene or some other similar bio-thinner so as to get good initial penetration upon which to build following less diluted applications. Hard hand buff with cotton terry towel seems to work well.</p>
<p>My personal preference with "finger-marked stained and worn" maple necks is to just clean em up and let the historical coloration be a tribute to the playing patterns of all those that have played the instrument before. Let the history shine through sort of thing.</p>
<p>Now, finally, in the fine wood working sphere of cabinetmaking dilute oxalic acid is sometimes used to remove greyness and oxidation from undamaged wood however, in this situation such a process maybe fraught with danger.</p>
<p>Regards,</p>
<p>Rusty.</p>
<p></p> After dressing. The grime loo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-16:2177249:Comment:1630662016-10-16T19:31:45.856ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
<p>After dressing. The grime looks fine here but it really depends on the light and the looking angle.<br/><a href="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/nougatbollen/20161016_212302_zpsuw5aau0x.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/nougatbollen/20161016_212302_zpsuw5aau0x.jpg" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>After dressing. The grime looks fine here but it really depends on the light and the looking angle.<br/><a href="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/nougatbollen/20161016_212302_zpsuw5aau0x.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k29/nougatbollen/20161016_212302_zpsuw5aau0x.jpg" class="align-full"/></a></p> Thanks for the swift reply's,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-16:2177249:Comment:1629802016-10-16T19:27:40.654ZSilverbursthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikePtacek
<p>Thanks for the swift reply's, greatly appreciated ;)</p>
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<p><strong>Mike:</strong> The neck has plenty of fret left. I don't think it was ever dressed. I had to remove to dents and local wear, but now after dressing 1.35mm left on average, so a refret is not going to happen any time soon. It look quite ok I have to agree, but I'm afraid of the effect oils will have and make at more appareant, and then locked underneath.</p>
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<p><strong>Ron:</strong> some have adviced met…</p>
<p>Thanks for the swift reply's, greatly appreciated ;)</p>
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<p><strong>Mike:</strong> The neck has plenty of fret left. I don't think it was ever dressed. I had to remove to dents and local wear, but now after dressing 1.35mm left on average, so a refret is not going to happen any time soon. It look quite ok I have to agree, but I'm afraid of the effect oils will have and make at more appareant, and then locked underneath.</p>
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<p><strong>Ron:</strong> some have adviced met Clorox sticks to remove the gray. I suspect it is bleach based so I should indeed be carefull. I'd prefer a lighter stain compared to a gray grim stain though ;)</p> I suspect it is oxidation of…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-10-16:2177249:Comment:1630632016-10-16T15:49:57.969Zron stanovichhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ronstanovich
<p>I suspect it is oxidation of the wood turning it grey-ish. you might try some wood bleach in a small area, when done it will have lightened the wood enough that you will need to recolor/stain the maple back to what you want. I should say that I have never done this on any guitars that I have repaired, so be careful. </p>
<p>I suspect it is oxidation of the wood turning it grey-ish. you might try some wood bleach in a small area, when done it will have lightened the wood enough that you will need to recolor/stain the maple back to what you want. I should say that I have never done this on any guitars that I have repaired, so be careful. </p>