Reducing chipping on Ebony fretboard . - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T11:03:56Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/reducing-chipping-on-ebony-fretboard?feed=yes&xn_auth=nowow
i've always gone on the t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-10-17:2177249:Comment:2050582020-10-17T04:08:12.275ZWalter W Wrighthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WalterWWright
<p>wow</p>
<p>i've always gone on the theory that those ubiquitous turn of last century bowl-back mandolins weren't really repairable and are mostly suited to hanging on the walls of italian restaurants</p>
<p>i think this confirms it </p>
<p>wow</p>
<p>i've always gone on the theory that those ubiquitous turn of last century bowl-back mandolins weren't really repairable and are mostly suited to hanging on the walls of italian restaurants</p>
<p>i think this confirms it </p> i don't think it's any kind o…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-10-17:2177249:Comment:2050532020-10-17T04:04:24.338ZWalter W Wrighthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WalterWWright
<p>i don't think it's any kind of expansion thing, rather the heat serves to unstick the fret metal from the wood, which might be grabbing it whether glue was used or not.</p>
<p>the same method is used to dislodge stuck screws, which certainly weren't glued in</p>
<p>i don't think it's any kind of expansion thing, rather the heat serves to unstick the fret metal from the wood, which might be grabbing it whether glue was used or not.</p>
<p>the same method is used to dislodge stuck screws, which certainly weren't glued in</p> Great image, Dave. That is…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-10-05:2177249:Comment:1995322020-10-05T21:53:41.763ZDave Hannahttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Calamity_Crippen
<p>Great image, Dave. That is what I would call an ebonized fret board using an acid based dye with heat and maybe pressure. None of the 1800s fret boards made by Martin will do that because they used real ebony. At least after 30-35 very vintage Martin guitar resets, I have never experienced this. So my guess is an acid based dye makes the fb wood fall apart like that. </p>
<p>Have fun replacing the board. </p>
<p>Great image, Dave. That is what I would call an ebonized fret board using an acid based dye with heat and maybe pressure. None of the 1800s fret boards made by Martin will do that because they used real ebony. At least after 30-35 very vintage Martin guitar resets, I have never experienced this. So my guess is an acid based dye makes the fb wood fall apart like that. </p>
<p>Have fun replacing the board. </p> "If you struggle with ebony,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-06-28:2177249:Comment:1706882017-06-28T03:18:37.698ZDavid Farmerhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidFarmer
<p><span>"If you struggle with ebony, wait until you try pulling frets from the notorious 'ebonized' fb .. yikes, they sometimes literally explode into pieces"</span></p>
<p></p>
<p>Damn,<span> If I'd only used a chip stopper :)…</span></p>
<p><span><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761341?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761341?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></a></span></p>
<p><span>"If you struggle with ebony, wait until you try pulling frets from the notorious 'ebonized' fb .. yikes, they sometimes literally explode into pieces"</span></p>
<p></p>
<p>Damn,<span> If I'd only used a chip stopper :)</span></p>
<p><span><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761341?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167761341?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721" class="align-full"/></a></span></p> As far as removing the frets,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-06-28:2177249:Comment:1707892017-06-28T01:40:06.037ZGary Friedhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GaryFried
<p>As far as removing the frets, I've used water in extreme situations. Normally I just heat the fret until it's screaming hot and then use my pullers(you must be very careful when dealing with binding). On overly brittle ebony fretboards, I've painted thin superglue along the edges of each fret with a q-tip before doing my final sanding. This helps prevent any errant chips from exposing themselves when hammering or pressing. I've worked on some ebony boards that seemed as brittle as glass.…</p>
<p>As far as removing the frets, I've used water in extreme situations. Normally I just heat the fret until it's screaming hot and then use my pullers(you must be very careful when dealing with binding). On overly brittle ebony fretboards, I've painted thin superglue along the edges of each fret with a q-tip before doing my final sanding. This helps prevent any errant chips from exposing themselves when hammering or pressing. I've worked on some ebony boards that seemed as brittle as glass. Definitely a pain. </p> I just finished an old Taylor…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-06-25:2177249:Comment:1703932017-06-25T05:22:18.216ZFrank SIlanohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FrankSIlano
I just finished an old Taylor with a very brittle ebony board. It's definitely a pain in the behind. One tip I have heard as well is to adjust the neck for some back bow. Theoretically this takes some pressure off of the frets. Makes sense but I have yet to try it. After this last one I will definitely try it next time with ebony.
I just finished an old Taylor with a very brittle ebony board. It's definitely a pain in the behind. One tip I have heard as well is to adjust the neck for some back bow. Theoretically this takes some pressure off of the frets. Makes sense but I have yet to try it. After this last one I will definitely try it next time with ebony. Yes, the ebonized fretboards…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-05-08:2177249:Comment:1692092017-05-08T05:05:01.123ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>Yes, the ebonized fretboards are bad. Not only do the chip, they are almost "dead" when you tap on a loose one. The best thing to do is to replace them. If the glue is strong under the fretboard, you need a chisel to remove it in small pieces...</p>
<p>I don't think they were glued, maybe with some hot hide glue.</p>
<p>Yes, the ebonized fretboards are bad. Not only do the chip, they are almost "dead" when you tap on a loose one. The best thing to do is to replace them. If the glue is strong under the fretboard, you need a chisel to remove it in small pieces...</p>
<p>I don't think they were glued, maybe with some hot hide glue.</p> If you struggle with ebony, w…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-05-07:2177249:Comment:1690342017-05-07T22:59:33.714Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>If you struggle with ebony, wait until you try pulling frets from the notorious 'ebonized' fb .. yikes, they sometimes literally explode into pieces .. chunks, really, necessitating a new fingerboard. These boards are usually found on the cheaper 'factory' guitars from pre-WWII. </p>
<p>I use the above techniques, sans the H2O, and have also taken a fresh single-edge razor and scored along each side of the fret, so that, knowing it will chip regardless, the score line keeps the damage…</p>
<p>If you struggle with ebony, wait until you try pulling frets from the notorious 'ebonized' fb .. yikes, they sometimes literally explode into pieces .. chunks, really, necessitating a new fingerboard. These boards are usually found on the cheaper 'factory' guitars from pre-WWII. </p>
<p>I use the above techniques, sans the H2O, and have also taken a fresh single-edge razor and scored along each side of the fret, so that, knowing it will chip regardless, the score line keeps the damage under the fret (hopefully).</p>
<p>One question from the above info, Hesh and others in the know .. were frets pre WWII glued? I've not noticed. I assumed the purpose for using heat made an expansion difference, thereby freeing up the tangs a bit for ease of removal rather than melting glue. Of course, if you're doing a refret on a guitar that was already refretted, you're possibly softening glue.</p>
<p>Tom</p> All the above, but a chip sto…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-05-06:2177249:Comment:1692942017-05-06T10:09:59.339ZRoger Häggströmhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RogerHaeggstroem
<p>All the above, but a chip stopper like the one sold by <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Fretting/Pullers_nippers_sizing/Chip_Stoppers_Set_of_2.html" target="_blank">stewmac</a> is a valuable addition. I use water, heat from a soldering gun and the chip stopper together with the fret puller. I seldom have problems with the fretboard chipping.</p>
<p>All the above, but a chip stopper like the one sold by <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Tools_for_Fretting/Pullers_nippers_sizing/Chip_Stoppers_Set_of_2.html" target="_blank">stewmac</a> is a valuable addition. I use water, heat from a soldering gun and the chip stopper together with the fret puller. I seldom have problems with the fretboard chipping.</p> Thanks Hesh , I do all that s…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-05-05:2177249:Comment:1691012017-05-05T12:38:25.110ZLen Biglinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LenBiglin
<p>Thanks Hesh , I do all that stuff except the water trick , might try it next time .</p>
<p>Thanks Hesh , I do all that stuff except the water trick , might try it next time .</p>