SEAGULL 12 STRING - BRIDGE CRACKED & TOP CAVING IN - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T13:10:34Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/seagull-12-string-bridge?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A58791&feed=yes&xn_auth=noJust to update you guys. I pu…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-28:2177249:Comment:587912011-05-28T19:42:54.749ZMark Softichhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkSoftich
Just to update you guys. I pulled all the binding off the top, removed the neck, and removed the top. It's easy to see that the braces are really thin towards the kerfing. It also looks like the kerfing needs to be replaced because there are a few gaps where they put a few filler pieces in where the kerfing they had wasn't long enough to go around the whole guitar. Also there is glue squeeze out all over the place on the top. I assume they figure no one sees that when the guitar is together.…
Just to update you guys. I pulled all the binding off the top, removed the neck, and removed the top. It's easy to see that the braces are really thin towards the kerfing. It also looks like the kerfing needs to be replaced because there are a few gaps where they put a few filler pieces in where the kerfing they had wasn't long enough to go around the whole guitar. Also there is glue squeeze out all over the place on the top. I assume they figure no one sees that when the guitar is together. Anyway here's a few pics with the top off. You could make your own solid…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-28:2177249:Comment:585312011-05-28T12:44:09.978ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace478
<p>You could make your own solid (no kerf) strips out of mahog.or other wood.I did it on a mandola I made.I like that because you don't knock out kerfed ares when fitting braces and it looks neat except it's hard to see under the top.</p>
<p>If you plan it right you can make corrections at the neck & tail blocks.Perhaps thicker top in places?Read some of the notes on Cumpiano's site.The most interesting to me was how you can put an angle on the neckblock to acheive a better match neck to…</p>
<p>You could make your own solid (no kerf) strips out of mahog.or other wood.I did it on a mandola I made.I like that because you don't knock out kerfed ares when fitting braces and it looks neat except it's hard to see under the top.</p>
<p>If you plan it right you can make corrections at the neck & tail blocks.Perhaps thicker top in places?Read some of the notes on Cumpiano's site.The most interesting to me was how you can put an angle on the neckblock to acheive a better match neck to body.Not advising you to do this w/o grasping the effect.</p>
<p>I don't mind a little free extension above the top since it's a bolt on plus you can see how the instrument</p>
<p>reacts to climate by watching the F/B.You don't ant to wind up w/ the old hump at the neck to body.</p>
<p> </p> Cool! Please try to take pics…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-28:2177249:Comment:587852011-05-28T11:45:10.196ZMark Softichhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkSoftich
<p>Cool! Please try to take pics if you can of the process so i can see what you did. As i am getting into it, i am not sure how to match Seagull's compound radius on the top so i was going to change it to a 30ft radius. My fear in doing that is lowering the heel block too much and then the bolt on neck would have a bigger gap between the top plate and the fingerboard.<br></br> <br></br> Do you think this will be an issue?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I am also not very happy with the kerfing on the top so I think…</p>
<p>Cool! Please try to take pics if you can of the process so i can see what you did. As i am getting into it, i am not sure how to match Seagull's compound radius on the top so i was going to change it to a 30ft radius. My fear in doing that is lowering the heel block too much and then the bolt on neck would have a bigger gap between the top plate and the fingerboard.<br/> <br/>
Do you think this will be an issue?</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I am also not very happy with the kerfing on the top so I think I will also replace that. The bottom kerfing looks great, but there are gaps missing on the top. Do you guys have any tips on removing kerfing?</p> go on Grahame and make that t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-26:2177249:Comment:585142011-05-26T21:45:46.513ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace478
<p>go on Grahame and make that top...unless you've got some youth serum.How will you debulge it?I really prefer</p>
<p>you go ahead w/the new top though.BTW I'm full of advice and rarely use it myself.Turn that bulge into a positive.</p>
<p>Maybe it's supposed to be there.I'd also be tempted to plug it up and use a tailpiece setup! I like the elasticity they</p>
<p>can achieve on a 12er.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>go on Grahame and make that top...unless you've got some youth serum.How will you debulge it?I really prefer</p>
<p>you go ahead w/the new top though.BTW I'm full of advice and rarely use it myself.Turn that bulge into a positive.</p>
<p>Maybe it's supposed to be there.I'd also be tempted to plug it up and use a tailpiece setup! I like the elasticity they</p>
<p>can achieve on a 12er.</p>
<p> </p> I thought I'd bump this post…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-26:2177249:Comment:585112011-05-26T19:41:14.816ZGrahame Myershttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GrahameMyers
<p>I thought I'd bump this post up, as since yesterday I also have a Seagull SM 12 spruce, in about the same condition as yours. There are no cracks in the top, but the bridge was lifting (I've already removed it completly, and "stolen" the tuners for another 12-String I had lying around), and the top is caved in between the soundhole and the neckblock. And behind the bridge is a huge bulge in the top. As well as that, it seems that the top had started to split on the centre seam sometime in…</p>
<p>I thought I'd bump this post up, as since yesterday I also have a Seagull SM 12 spruce, in about the same condition as yours. There are no cracks in the top, but the bridge was lifting (I've already removed it completly, and "stolen" the tuners for another 12-String I had lying around), and the top is caved in between the soundhole and the neckblock. And behind the bridge is a huge bulge in the top. As well as that, it seems that the top had started to split on the centre seam sometime in the past: This has been "repaired" by an unknown expert (!), with a piece of plywood (see pics)</p>
<p>When I get round to repairing it, I think a complete new top is going to be the best bet, maybe with thicker braces and a thicker bridge plate this time to better deal with the string tension from 12 strings?</p>
<p>Grahame</p> LMII good.....no complaints h…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-24:2177249:Comment:580952011-05-24T15:07:45.184ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace478
<p>LMII good.....no complaints here..</p>
<p> </p>
<p>LMII good.....no complaints here..</p>
<p> </p> I should look into that. I wa…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-24:2177249:Comment:578212011-05-24T14:02:04.463ZMark Softichhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkSoftich
I should look into that. I was looking at getting all the supplies from LMI. Is that a good place to get tonewoods from? Any bad experiences there?<br />
<br />
Thanks!
I should look into that. I was looking at getting all the supplies from LMI. Is that a good place to get tonewoods from? Any bad experiences there?<br />
<br />
Thanks! If you are looking for a trul…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-23:2177249:Comment:580912011-05-23T18:48:49.081ZWilliam F.Edenhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
<p>If you are looking for a truly nice B.C TOP are good friend Brent Cole at Alaska Specialty woods has the best full figerd B.C I have ever bought. Good luck on your prodject .Bill.''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''</p>
<p>If you are looking for a truly nice B.C TOP are good friend Brent Cole at Alaska Specialty woods has the best full figerd B.C I have ever bought. Good luck on your prodject .Bill.''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''</p> Everything(TMK) you need is c…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-23:2177249:Comment:580892011-05-23T18:00:48.450ZTim Macehttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimMace478
Everything(TMK) you need is contained here somewhere!
Everything(TMK) you need is contained here somewhere! I thought about it last night…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-23:2177249:Comment:578112011-05-23T15:23:00.440ZMark Softichhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkSoftich
<p>I thought about it last night and decided to replace the top. I really like the Bearclaw Sitka spruce top on my Taylor DN-4 so I might do that. I have never removed a top before so if you guys have any links to some good tutorials it would be much appreciated.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>So far I found this one:</p>
<p>http://ultimate-guitar-repair.com/top-plate-removal/</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks a lot for your advice!</p>
<p>Mark</p>
<p>I thought about it last night and decided to replace the top. I really like the Bearclaw Sitka spruce top on my Taylor DN-4 so I might do that. I have never removed a top before so if you guys have any links to some good tutorials it would be much appreciated.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>So far I found this one:</p>
<p>http://ultimate-guitar-repair.com/top-plate-removal/</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks a lot for your advice!</p>
<p>Mark</p>