Straightening neck of vintage Gibson J50 with large amount of upbow - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T13:17:25Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/straightening-neck-of-vintage-gibson-j50-with-large-amount-of?feed=yes&xn_auth=noIf you use a neck jig to stra…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-19:2177249:Comment:1764532018-01-19T22:28:20.995ZRobbie Collinshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>If you use a neck jig to straighten the neck and then level the fretboard you'll still have a bow when you take it out of the jig. Rather than straightening the neck with the neck jig, use it to recreate the bow with the truss rod adjusted half way, then flatten the neck by taking off wood at each end of fretboard. This will leave you with a flat neck with room for adjustment after restringing.</p>
<p>If you use a neck jig to straighten the neck and then level the fretboard you'll still have a bow when you take it out of the jig. Rather than straightening the neck with the neck jig, use it to recreate the bow with the truss rod adjusted half way, then flatten the neck by taking off wood at each end of fretboard. This will leave you with a flat neck with room for adjustment after restringing.</p> I should probably mention fo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-13:2177249:Comment:1762542018-01-13T22:12:06.166ZDean Sibleyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DeanSibley
<p> I should probably mention for beginers that steam may adversely affect lacquer finish. Both repairs mentioned above, the Ibanez had been incredibly poorly refinished & I stripped it & repolished with shellac & one repair was to replace a mahog. neck on a 12 string I have had for 40 yrs - my first neck replacement - learned a lot about shaping, truss rod installation etc.</p>
<p>Sorry about the double vision above - haven't used computer for a while.</p>
<p>Dean</p>
<p> I should probably mention for beginers that steam may adversely affect lacquer finish. Both repairs mentioned above, the Ibanez had been incredibly poorly refinished & I stripped it & repolished with shellac & one repair was to replace a mahog. neck on a 12 string I have had for 40 yrs - my first neck replacement - learned a lot about shaping, truss rod installation etc.</p>
<p>Sorry about the double vision above - haven't used computer for a while.</p>
<p>Dean</p> Hi Guys,
I have not contribu…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-13:2177249:Comment:1764412018-01-13T10:15:06.791ZDean Sibleyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DeanSibley
<p>Hi Guys,</p>
<p> I have not contributed for a while due to bereavement but regularly peruse this site with interest. It surprises me no-one has mentioned the steam option on most irons. I used to restore antiques & was given an old Ibanez Seville - from the bowels of an antique dealers storage room. @ the nut the bass string was about 3mm higher than top E - probably due to someone putting steel strings on it.I removed fretboard clamped it ( slight opposite twist) with 3 blocks under…</p>
<p>Hi Guys,</p>
<p> I have not contributed for a while due to bereavement but regularly peruse this site with interest. It surprises me no-one has mentioned the steam option on most irons. I used to restore antiques & was given an old Ibanez Seville - from the bowels of an antique dealers storage room. @ the nut the bass string was about 3mm higher than top E - probably due to someone putting steel strings on it.I removed fretboard clamped it ( slight opposite twist) with 3 blocks under neck & used a $2 charity shop iron on steam & cotton settings. My first neck adjustment - self taught with no reference(computer) or advice. Replaced fretboard - problem sorted in couple of hrs. That was 5 yrs ago & it is a very nice " behind the couch" guitar to play while having coffee or jamming with old blues albums. For 2 yrs prior to this I occasionally would put it on the bench & tried various techniques with zero result - with the fretboard on.</p>
<p> I also use a common household floor steamer together with old bone handled sheffield steel bread & butter knife heated by holding it on the iron every few minutes, to remove fretboard. Steam prevents shrinkage but still need to be carefull with celluloid inlays.</p>
<p> For both tasks the ironing was done freehand not clamped.</p>
<p>Recently retired so just about to start using Braz. rosewood, mahogany, cocobolo, cuban mahog, Honduran walnut & more which I bought 30 yrs ago! & have been lugging it around ever since. Important lesson here for newbies & younger lads - allocate 20 - 30% of your machine/tool allowance to the finest & rarest wood you can get - even if you only buy 1 small stick.& DON'T touch it. When you get old it would be frustrating to have fine, rare skills, fully equiped workshop (is that actually possible?) & only radiata pine & particle board to work with!</p>
<p>Happy new year to all.</p>
<p>Dean</p>
<p></p> Hi Guys,
I have not contribu…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-13:2177249:Comment:1763642018-01-13T10:14:32.551ZDean Sibleyhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DeanSibley
<p>Hi Guys,</p>
<p> I have not contributed for a while due to bereavement but regularly peruse this site with interest. It surprises me no-one has mentioned the steam option on most irons. I used to restore antiques & was given an old Ibanez Seville - from the bowels of an antique dealers storage room. @ the nut the bass string was about 3mm higher than top E - probably due to someone putting steel strings on it.I removed fretboard clamped it ( slight opposite twist) with 3 blocks under…</p>
<p>Hi Guys,</p>
<p> I have not contributed for a while due to bereavement but regularly peruse this site with interest. It surprises me no-one has mentioned the steam option on most irons. I used to restore antiques & was given an old Ibanez Seville - from the bowels of an antique dealers storage room. @ the nut the bass string was about 3mm higher than top E - probably due to someone putting steel strings on it.I removed fretboard clamped it ( slight opposite twist) with 3 blocks under neck & used a $2 charity shop iron on steam & cotton settings. My first neck adjustment - self taught with no reference(computer) or advice. Replaced fretboard - problem sorted in couple of hrs. That was 5 yrs ago & it is a very nice " behind the couch" guitar to play while having coffee or jamming with old blues albums. For 2 yrs prior to this I occasionally would put it on the bench & tried various techniques with zero result - with the fretboard on.</p>
<p> I also use a common household floor steamer together with old bone handled sheffield steel bread & butter knife heated by holding it on the iron every few minutes, to remove fretboard. Steam prevents shrinkage but still need to be carefull with celluloid inlays.</p>
<p> For both tasks the ironing was done freehand not clamped.</p>
<p>Recently retired so just about to start using Braz. rosewood, mahogany, cocobolo, cuban mahog, Honduran walnut & more which I bought 30 yrs ago! & have been lugging it around ever since. Important lesson here for newbies & younger lads - allocate 20 - 30% of your machine/tool allowance to the finest & rarest wood you can get - even if you only buy 1 small stick.& DON'T touch it. When you get old it would be frustrating to have fine, rare skills, fully equiped workshop (is that actually possible?) & only radiata pine & particle board to work with!</p>
<p>Happy new year to all.</p>
<p>Dean</p>
<p></p> I hope not Allan - a last res…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-10:2177249:Comment:1764342018-01-10T19:51:15.022ZAndrew Hannhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AndrewHann
<p>I hope not Allan - a last resort for me I think! </p>
<p>I hope not Allan - a last resort for me I think! </p> Apologies for delay in respon…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-10:2177249:Comment:1763542018-01-10T19:50:13.954ZAndrew Hannhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AndrewHann
<p>Apologies for delay in responding Walter. Thanks! I was kind of looking at infrared but wasn't sure what to go for - I've seen this sort of lamp advertised - on a floor mounted angle poise arrangement used by physio/ therapists which looks handy as you can move and direct the heat source easily - like the attached...275W!…</p>
<p>Apologies for delay in responding Walter. Thanks! I was kind of looking at infrared but wasn't sure what to go for - I've seen this sort of lamp advertised - on a floor mounted angle poise arrangement used by physio/ therapists which looks handy as you can move and direct the heat source easily - like the attached...275W!</p>
<blockquote><a href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FoxHunter-Infrared-Floor-Stand-Heat-Lamp-Health-Pain-Relief-Therapy-275W-White/122389087105?epid=621294934&hash=item1c7ef54381:g:yzAAAOSwiVhZzMVq">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FoxHunter-Infrared-Floor-Stand-Heat-Lamp-Health-Pain-Relief-Therapy-275W-White/122389087105?epid=621294934&hash=item1c7ef54381:g:yzAAAOSwiVhZzMVq</a></blockquote> a quick googling gave me this…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-05:2177249:Comment:1761062018-01-05T05:38:33.815ZWalter W Wrighthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WalterWWright
<p>a quick googling gave me this?</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/light-bulbs/infrared-heat" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/light-bulbs/infrared-heat</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>mine are i think 125w, as more than that would probably be too much for the cheap desk lamp fixtures i put them in. they're also the kind that put out bright light along with the heat, which is kind of annoying actually. i might try replacing them with the kind that…</p>
<p>a quick googling gave me this?</p>
<p></p>
<p><a rel="nofollow noopener" href="https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/light-bulbs/infrared-heat" target="_blank">https://www.thelightbulb.co.uk/light-bulbs/infrared-heat</a></p>
<p></p>
<p>mine are i think 125w, as more than that would probably be too much for the cheap desk lamp fixtures i put them in. they're also the kind that put out bright light along with the heat, which is kind of annoying actually. i might try replacing them with the kind that just put out the infrared.</p> Hi Walter,
I've seen a video…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-12-29:2177249:Comment:1760912017-12-29T18:56:10.966ZAndrew Hannhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AndrewHann
<p>Hi Walter,</p>
<p>I've seen a video of Dan Erlewine using a heat lamp as you describe. This method also has an advantage in being able to see what you're doing with the neck. I'm not sure what you call the heat lamp - or where I can buy one. I'm in the UK, don't think we have such a thing in general hardware stores here. Do you have any other info on the heat lamp used? Cheers </p>
<p>Andy</p>
<p>Hi Walter,</p>
<p>I've seen a video of Dan Erlewine using a heat lamp as you describe. This method also has an advantage in being able to see what you're doing with the neck. I'm not sure what you call the heat lamp - or where I can buy one. I'm in the UK, don't think we have such a thing in general hardware stores here. Do you have any other info on the heat lamp used? Cheers </p>
<p>Andy</p> Sounds like a fret board remo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-12-25:2177249:Comment:1758402017-12-25T05:55:37.267ZAllan Baconhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AllanBacon40
<p>Sounds like a fret board removal and a neck planning is in your future.</p>
<p>Sounds like a fret board removal and a neck planning is in your future.</p> have not tried the clothes ir…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-12-22:2177249:Comment:1757372017-12-22T02:32:09.311ZWalter W Wrighthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WalterWWright
<p>have not tried the clothes iron+aluminum bar method, but i've had pretty good luck over the past few years using heat <span style="text-decoration: underline;">lamps</span> from the hardware store over a neck clamped into the desired curve (clamped well <span style="text-decoration: underline;">past</span> the desired curve actually).</p>
<p></p>
<p>i suppose they transfer heat more slowly than the bar, but that might be a good thing. i just cover the individual fretboard inlays with bits of…</p>
<p>have not tried the clothes iron+aluminum bar method, but i've had pretty good luck over the past few years using heat <span style="text-decoration: underline;">lamps</span> from the hardware store over a neck clamped into the desired curve (clamped well <span style="text-decoration: underline;">past</span> the desired curve actually).</p>
<p></p>
<p>i suppose they transfer heat more slowly than the bar, but that might be a good thing. i just cover the individual fretboard inlays with bits of reflective foil on top of little pieces of cardboard, and spend the better part of a day "baking" the neck while moving my two heat lamps (in desk lamp fixtures) over different spots along the neck with the goal of even heating without getting too close or too hot in one spot and shrinking the wood or damaging the inlays.</p>
<p></p>
<p>i'll leave it clamped up to cool overnight and pull it to check the next day, so far it almost always comes out changed in the direction i was trying to get it to go. (sometimes even too far!)</p>
<p></p>
<p>i've even had good luck fixing the dreaded "ski ramp neck kink" where an electric instrument neck folds up right at the transition from free to "bound" at the body.</p>
<p></p>
<p>as for what's happening, i don't think it's any kind of glue joint "slipping", that just doesn't seem right; plus i've had success with one piece maple fender necks (where the finish was already mostly gone fortunately, not sure how i could make this work on a fully finished glossy maple neck). i think the wood itself becomes "plastic" with sufficient heat and stays put once bent; that's how acoustic sides are made after all, right?</p>
<p></p>
<p>the light bulb went on for me while watching one of those silly discovery channel "weapons" shows, the one where a machinist guy uses modern methods to improve ancient weapons (crossbows in a machine shop, that kind of thing) while the other expert makes them the old way. the "old ways" guy was making spears out in the woods by cutting down twisty saplings, stripping them, <span style="text-decoration: underline;">heating them on a fire</span> and then <span style="text-decoration: underline;">bending them straight</span>. it was surprisingly easy to get the wood to bend and stay bent with heat.</p>