The Most Difficult Neck Reset .. need ideas - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T06:16:33Zhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/the-most-difficult-neck-reset-need-ideas?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A278614&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noYes, I've seen how the jig ca…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-18:2177249:Comment:2786142021-03-18T17:42:24.195Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Yes, I've seen how the jig can crush or 'wrinkle' a heel, especially when lots of steam has shot out in the low part of the joint!</p>
<p>Yes, I've seen how the jig can crush or 'wrinkle' a heel, especially when lots of steam has shot out in the low part of the joint!</p> Thanks, Larry, that makes sen…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-18:2177249:Comment:2784642021-03-18T17:41:15.507Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Thanks, Larry, that makes sense. I've not tackled the issue yet, I have a much more experienced luthier assessing it at the moment.</p>
<p>Tom</p>
<p>Thanks, Larry, that makes sense. I've not tackled the issue yet, I have a much more experienced luthier assessing it at the moment.</p>
<p>Tom</p> If this is in response to my…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-18:2177249:Comment:2785262021-03-18T14:27:28.302ZIan Davlinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/IanDavlin
<p>If this is in response to my reply, one thing I'd say is the original version has a built in torque limiter with the deflection of the aluminum. The steel bar has no limits and will crush a heel if you aren't sensitive. </p>
<p>If this is in response to my reply, one thing I'd say is the original version has a built in torque limiter with the deflection of the aluminum. The steel bar has no limits and will crush a heel if you aren't sensitive. </p> Tom,
I would definitely consi…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-14:2177249:Comment:2784532021-03-14T16:07:44.685ZLarry Totohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LarryToto
<p>Tom,</p>
<p>I would definitely consider locking the two necks together using additional bracing between the necks using some form of clamping system that prevents torquing the headstock. Good luck.</p>
<p>Larry</p>
<p></p>
<p>Tom,</p>
<p>I would definitely consider locking the two necks together using additional bracing between the necks using some form of clamping system that prevents torquing the headstock. Good luck.</p>
<p>Larry</p>
<p></p> Nice idea, makes sense, thank…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-11:2177249:Comment:2783702021-03-11T21:53:48.946Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Nice idea, makes sense, thanks!</p>
<p>Tom</p>
<p>Nice idea, makes sense, thanks!</p>
<p>Tom</p> I modified my stewmac neck po…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-11:2177249:Comment:2785122021-03-11T20:48:10.785ZIan Davlinhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/IanDavlin
<p>I modified my stewmac neck popper jig by removing the aluminum bar with the thumb wheel and replacing it with square steel tube. I drilled two holes for the carriage bolts to go through and added wing nuts to the bolts for tightening. The square tube makes contact with the heel cap and force is applied by tightening the wingnuts. Depending on the angle, this would push on two heels at the same time with a little shimming (im guessing).</p>
<p>I modified my stewmac neck popper jig by removing the aluminum bar with the thumb wheel and replacing it with square steel tube. I drilled two holes for the carriage bolts to go through and added wing nuts to the bolts for tightening. The square tube makes contact with the heel cap and force is applied by tightening the wingnuts. Depending on the angle, this would push on two heels at the same time with a little shimming (im guessing).</p> Hi again, I used to do my nec…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-04:2177249:Comment:2784982021-03-04T22:15:02.299ZTaffy Evanshttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TaffyEvans
<p>Hi again, I used to do my neck joints as you describe here on my first guitars, back in the 1970s, years later I had to remove a neck, and could not get it to budge, no way. T<strong>his not a suggestion</strong>, but I had to saw the neck off, and that started me on a path of bolt-on necks.</p>
<p>Taff</p>
<p>Hi again, I used to do my neck joints as you describe here on my first guitars, back in the 1970s, years later I had to remove a neck, and could not get it to budge, no way. T<strong>his not a suggestion</strong>, but I had to saw the neck off, and that started me on a path of bolt-on necks.</p>
<p>Taff</p> Frank, thanks, your overview…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-04:2177249:Comment:2784952021-03-04T21:37:34.785Zonewenthttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Frank, thanks, your overview makes sense for a traditional dovetail .. but .. the Weymann factory used straight mortise and tenon joints into the block, three facets glued, each side of tenon, and the surface of the tenon, so steaming is tough because there is no 'pocket'. I've gone to a heat stick with these joints with some success, and that's why I'm leaning toward simultaneous heat sticks to ease them out at the same time.</p>
<p>Frank, thanks, your overview makes sense for a traditional dovetail .. but .. the Weymann factory used straight mortise and tenon joints into the block, three facets glued, each side of tenon, and the surface of the tenon, so steaming is tough because there is no 'pocket'. I've gone to a heat stick with these joints with some success, and that's why I'm leaning toward simultaneous heat sticks to ease them out at the same time.</p> It's possible that the necks…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-04:2177249:Comment:2784922021-03-04T19:47:52.932ZFrank Fordhttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FrankFord
<p>It's possible that the necks are butt-glued and mortised into the neck block without separate dovetails. That's the way violin necks are mounted, and I've seen it from time to time on guitars of this period.</p>
<p></p>
<p>More likely, I suppose, is that they are regular tapered dovetails. In either case, I'd steam the necks out one at a time, even when they are connected at the peghead, expecting that there would be enough flexibility to allow one to be released, but not fully extracted…</p>
<p>It's possible that the necks are butt-glued and mortised into the neck block without separate dovetails. That's the way violin necks are mounted, and I've seen it from time to time on guitars of this period.</p>
<p></p>
<p>More likely, I suppose, is that they are regular tapered dovetails. In either case, I'd steam the necks out one at a time, even when they are connected at the peghead, expecting that there would be enough flexibility to allow one to be released, but not fully extracted before attacking the other. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Remember that when you're steaming out a regular tapered dovetail, it becomes completely loose after raising only a fraction of an inch. So, it seems reasonable to me that they could be removable together.</p> Hi Tom. A major consideration…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-04:2177249:Comment:2784182021-03-04T00:41:55.917ZPaul Verticchiohttp://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Hi Tom. <br/>A major consideration should be the probability of the necks needing completely different angles of compensation at the neck blocks. <br/>Seperating the necks prior to disassembly and during adjustments will be much, much easier and worlds more accurate than </p>
<p>working with a single component. <br/>Any realignment issues can be easily accomplished when reconnecting the headstocks. <br/>It’s your call. <br/>let us know the outcome and best of luck. </p>
<p>Hi Tom. <br/>A major consideration should be the probability of the necks needing completely different angles of compensation at the neck blocks. <br/>Seperating the necks prior to disassembly and during adjustments will be much, much easier and worlds more accurate than </p>
<p>working with a single component. <br/>Any realignment issues can be easily accomplished when reconnecting the headstocks. <br/>It’s your call. <br/>let us know the outcome and best of luck. </p>