Hey All, I was wondering if you can help through something. I'm doing a complete re-bind on an Old Country Gent. I've done a handful of these at this point using weld-on with great results as far as securing the binding goes but am left with some touching up to do (on the wood portions) as the weld-on attacks the finish pretty aggressively.
I've used Titebond for reattaching loose binding. On new binding on unfinished wood I use Duco cement. I assume you are installing new binding on a finished guitar neck. I guess I'd experiment by taking maybe a 6" piece of binding, gluing it on, letting it dry, and see how secure it is. Also roughening up the glue side with course sandpaper may help with adhesion.
I'm guessing it will work ok.
Luthier's Mercantile has a binding glue that works very well for repairs and probably for new jobs as well.
I've done several binding re-attachments that have gone very well. It's a contact-type cement, cleans up with acetone and you can use a small artist's brush to paint it carefully on the binding track and then press the binding on and clamp. Holds as well or better than ACC, Duco, Titebond or other products. If you're careful with how you paint it on and don't slop it, there's virtually no squeeze out to clean up or damage the adjacent finish. Open time is about 5 minutes. You may be able to re-activate or prolong the open time with a little acetone but I'd experiment on scraps, first--I haven't tried it. I haven't had to clean it off finish but it might clean up with naptha, too. Acetone was what LMI recommended, however.
I did a complete rebind of a 64 CG recenty and don't recall any particularly difficult sections to rebind. The headstock binding is a bit fiddly but straightforward (I rerouted the headstock rebate anyway as it was almost down to nothing on the original headstock). Weld On is my go to for bare wood binding simply because it fuses the binding to the wood because of its "melting" action on plastic.
You will need low tack tape if tape is your method as the brown tape used for bare wood will lift the finish on an old CG. I don't use them but the big rubber bands are also an option where old finishes are concerned.
For in situ repairs on finished guitars I have used titebond to avoid finish damage - but I prebend replacement binding with a heat gun allowing it to slump to its desired curves and rehardening before gluing it up - so it just becomes a case of sitting it in the rebate, and taping it up. In situ shrinking binding in the waist areas of guitars are not a good candidate for titebond unless they are similarly "relaxed" before regluing to remove the tension on the glue joint.
The issue with binding/binding repairs is that they all look good when initially done but the action of temp and humidity, time and glue creep all serve to expose poor long term adhesion on bindings.
I used the LMII binding cement to reglue binding on a Martin D1 with a catalyzed finish. The adhesion is good, but the glue is thick and I had to fill a few areas with CA. Luckily, I could use acetone on the finish to clean up. On a lacquer finish I would use something thinner that cleans up with water, maybe Titebond III. Rough the inside of the binding for mechanical adhesion since it won't melt into the binding like Weld-On or LMII glue.
I just got one of these in this morning for a rebind. I plan to use titebond (roughing the binding to 120 grit). I avoid finish touchup whenever possible! Weld-on/Duco not only eats the finish, it dries so hard that it makes the binding much harder to scrape flush without harming the surrounding finish.
I was wondering what the side dots looked like on the one you have. The fingerboard binding has already been replaced on this one and the customer wants red side dots put in so it will look original. I'm looking for a picture that would tell me which frets had side dots and how big they were.
Sorry to get off topic!