ve on the production costs?) around the top plate's (bare wood) gluing area which gives the appearance of a lifting bridge. With less bonding area, the bridges often do begin to lift. Having little experience with this man-made substance (MICARTA), I am wondering what characteristics it has:
Does heating (for removal) warp or melt it?
What glues are compatible with this?
What are the working characteristics as a fret board or bridge?
(I have found that bridge pin holes are harder to ream)…
Sorry to revive this old topic.
I have a Martin 000cxe with micarta fretboard for a refret.
Can you tell me if there are differences in working with micarta than rosewood, ebony, etc. for this job?
y to tell between micarta and ritchlite?
- Can I use a soldering iron as usual to remove the frets? Any temperature setting?
- Will the soldering iron melt the fretboard if it touches it?
- I have read that people like to use .005 oversized fret saw to prevent backbowing – any opinions on this?
- Can I level the fingerboard with sandpaper? I have heard people say that micarta doesn’t need leveling, but this seemed a bit off to me.
- Should I glue the frets in? If so, any preference between super glue and white glue?
- Any other tips?
Thank you for any help you can give me!…
e reality is most instruments don't get much use.
That said, I'd stay away from ebony because of the wear factor, and when asked to do either black horn or ebony I always recommend black Micarta, which looks nice and black, too. In fact, black horn, Micarta, ebony all look the same to me when polished up really well. Micarta is cheap, available and durable.
Soundwise, well, as usual, I'm skeptical. . .…
hile richlite has a greater resistance.
Martin production uses their typical white glue to adhere the fingerboard extension and bridge on the synthetic components in their Nazareth plant while the Mexican made X series necks are attached to the body with cyanoacrylate.
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Added by Guitar Fixer at 3:13am on January 14, 2015