All Discussions Tagged 'Bridge' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T22:12:36Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Bridge&feed=yes&xn_auth=noAdvice on 12 string bridge height short of a neck resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-09-03:2177249:Topic:1804092018-09-03T18:41:12.851ZBruce Ericksonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BruceErickson
<p>This is for the Guild F112 my brother is letting me experiment with. I'm a fair novice so I'm moving slowly. </p>
<p>The bridge had pulled up and the belly bowed. My brother attempted to fix it with bolts into the wings. When I got it the bridge was halfway off. I pulled it and cleaned up the bridge 'bed' (that's what I'm calling the area under the bridge). I had to remove a lot of junk from previous repairs (not mine) and the tearout was considerable. This lowered the bridge bed some,…</p>
<p>This is for the Guild F112 my brother is letting me experiment with. I'm a fair novice so I'm moving slowly. </p>
<p>The bridge had pulled up and the belly bowed. My brother attempted to fix it with bolts into the wings. When I got it the bridge was halfway off. I pulled it and cleaned up the bridge 'bed' (that's what I'm calling the area under the bridge). I had to remove a lot of junk from previous repairs (not mine) and the tearout was considerable. This lowered the bridge bed some, but checking the neck angle shows its still too high. </p>
<p>I'll install one of the JLD rigs, probably the Bridge System since it doesn't require drilling yet another hole in the already perforated bridge, plus seems to add more strength. Having the string ball ends and windings showing is not gonna be pretty though. I'm also concerned the windings will end up resting on the saddle - bad thing. Worse case is modifying the windings - another bad thing. But that's another story.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Short of a neck reset, what recommendations would you guys have for compensating the bridge height? The original saddle was already pretty low. I'll see what that's like after installing the bridge and JLD. I could shave a bit off the top of the bridge - not the bottom since the wings are already pretty thin. Then I would also have to cut the saddle slot a little deeper. Kinda tricky for my level of (in)experience. But then so is a neck reset.</p> Martin LXM Bridge Regluetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-08-04:2177249:Topic:1491752015-08-04T17:06:15.034ZRob Suttonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobSutton
<p>Hey Everyone!</p>
<p>I have a little Martin LXM that needs a bridge reglue. I'm wondering what adhesive should be used for the job. The top is made from HPL, and the surface under the bridge is just as smooth as the rest of the instrument. I'm going to trace around the bridge and then scuff up that surface, but I'm uncertain of the adhesive. I was thinking maybe a thick CA, but I'm leaning towards an epoxy. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!</p>
<p>Hey Everyone!</p>
<p>I have a little Martin LXM that needs a bridge reglue. I'm wondering what adhesive should be used for the job. The top is made from HPL, and the surface under the bridge is just as smooth as the rest of the instrument. I'm going to trace around the bridge and then scuff up that surface, but I'm uncertain of the adhesive. I was thinking maybe a thick CA, but I'm leaning towards an epoxy. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!</p> Re-gluing Cocobolo Bridgetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-16:2177249:Topic:1325612014-05-16T16:51:45.377ZJon Burtonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JonBurton
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p></p>
<p>I wondered whether I could pick your brains about this topic...</p>
<p></p>
<p>A guitar I made recently had the bridge peel off. It was originally glued with titebond original; I have a feeling the reason for the failure was the oily nature of this wood (the fretboard extension had also come unglued).</p>
<p></p>
<p>It's now got to be glued back on. Having done a dry run, clamping the bridge down, I noticed there is a considerable gap under the bridge, even under…</p>
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p></p>
<p>I wondered whether I could pick your brains about this topic...</p>
<p></p>
<p>A guitar I made recently had the bridge peel off. It was originally glued with titebond original; I have a feeling the reason for the failure was the oily nature of this wood (the fretboard extension had also come unglued).</p>
<p></p>
<p>It's now got to be glued back on. Having done a dry run, clamping the bridge down, I noticed there is a considerable gap under the bridge, even under clamping pressure. I've attached a photo: the gap seems to extend from the back of the main body of the bridge (i.e. excluding the wings) inwards for a distance of about 1cm. I estimate the width to be around 0.2mm (0.008").</p>
<p></p>
<p>I think titebond is out of the question for this job, due to the gap. My thoughts then turned to Hot Hide Glue: I've read that it has reasonable gap-filling properties...</p>
<p></p>
<p>Having not used HHG before, I have a few questions:</p>
<p></p>
<p>Do you think Hide Glue would be an appropriate choice here?</p>
<p>What would be the best way to prep the glueing surfaces (after having removed the old glue)? (I was thinking simply sand the cocobolo to a fresh surface and glue from there...)</p>
<p></p>
<p>I reckon I can get the clamp on and tightened in about 60 sec. Would the open time be long enough, or would I have to work ore quickly?!</p>
<p></p>
<p>(Obviously, once I get my hands on some glue and some kind of gadget to heat it in I'll do a few practice runs on scrap, to get the feel of it).</p>
<p></p>
<p>Any advice or suggestions would be very much appreciated!</p> Problem with previous repair of Guild F-20tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-03-29:2177249:Topic:1066122013-03-29T03:40:36.911ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>Well, I officially have my first "job" by a customer who is not a close friend or relative. Look out now, I'm makin' waves! Ha! Anyway, the repair was pretty straight forward, reglue shrunken plastic veneer on the peghead, reglue pickguard, light fret dressing and so forth. All went very well, until I needed to deal with stringing it up. </p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">You see, the previous repair was done, according to the owner, by a violin repairman years ago…</span></p>
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>Well, I officially have my first "job" by a customer who is not a close friend or relative. Look out now, I'm makin' waves! Ha! Anyway, the repair was pretty straight forward, reglue shrunken plastic veneer on the peghead, reglue pickguard, light fret dressing and so forth. All went very well, until I needed to deal with stringing it up. </p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">You see, the previous repair was done, according to the owner, by a violin repairman years ago when the customer's father had the guitar. The previous repair was an odd variation of JLD Bridge System <br/><a href="http://www.jldguitar.net/warped_tops/fixtop.html">http://www.jldguitar.net/warped_tops/fixtop.html</a> but uses a piece of pine cut to a parallelogram mounted to the original bridge-plate with a steel bolt running through it to the end-block. This puts the pin hole openings at an odd slant with little wood to hold the strings solidly and they already have tear-out. I glued a piece of hard wood just above the pin-holes to *hopefully* give the strings something harder and more stable to rest against. However, the string balls still won't sit properly and when you tune certain strings to pitch it forces the bridge pins out forcefully! Please see the picture and the diagram I drew to get an idea of what I'm dealing with. ANY help and suggestions would be so GREATLY appreciate! </span></p>
<p></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">Many thanks, as always!</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">-John<br/><br/> </span></p> D-28 Top Damagetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-11-30:2177249:Topic:791002011-11-30T19:08:59.939ZDave Domizihttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
Hi All,<br />
I'm evaluating a job for one of my regular clients. He just brought me a 1973 Martin D-28 which has apparently been worked on by a series of well-meaning people who REALLY didn't get things right. The current bridge, although over-sized, ugly, and lifted here and there, appears to have been relatively stable for the last few years, though it seems doomed to repeated failure in the long run due to the misshapen top and its leaning so far forward. I haven't taken the bridge off yet, as…
Hi All,<br />
I'm evaluating a job for one of my regular clients. He just brought me a 1973 Martin D-28 which has apparently been worked on by a series of well-meaning people who REALLY didn't get things right. The current bridge, although over-sized, ugly, and lifted here and there, appears to have been relatively stable for the last few years, though it seems doomed to repeated failure in the long run due to the misshapen top and its leaning so far forward. I haven't taken the bridge off yet, as the client would like some idea of cost before we get into it.<br />
The history, as best as the owner can tell me:<br />
- The bridge has been replaced 3 or 4 times over a number of years! Seems likely that the first few re-gluings/replacements were done without correcting the root cause - blown X-braces.<br />
- On the 3rd (?) bridge removal, the top may have been damaged by insufficient heating of the glue, leaving some torn out spruce, and apparently some additional wood MAY have been added on the top under the bridge. There is definitely sloppy extra wood added to reinforce the bridge plate, and then additional small chunks glues on top of that!- Likely on the 3rd or 4th repair, the worst of the x-bracing blowout was brutally glued up, though there are still various small bracing separations around the top now. It seems possible that the late-in-the-game x-brace glue up may have helped to lock in the awful warping that has taken place over the years.<br />
So, questions:<br />
- Is it possible (or not) to flatten this type of damage simply by removing the bridge alone and using heating bars like the Thompson Belly Reducer system that Stew Mac sells? I'm skeptical because of severity of the warping, the added extra layer of bridge plate material, as well as the possibility the there may even be another patch layered on the top under the bridge.- Would it be necessary to go beyond this type of bridge plate heating and to fully remove the bridge plate, and possibly even the back or top in order to wet and clamp flat the top before a full-structural rebuild of the bridge area of the top?<br />
- Will the late-stage x-brace glue up require additionally removing/regluing the x bracing in order to get things flat?<br />
- If it's the full-blown job, is it better to remove the top or the back to address these issues?<br />
Thanks to all in advance for your thought and time!<br />
Dave Cedar Top Bridge Re-Gluetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-12-18:2177249:Topic:220732009-12-18T02:09:31.759ZLee Brownhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LeeBrown
This Cedar Top Seagull came to the bench with the bridge already off and quite a hump where it once sat. The guitar was left in the trunk for a few days in a NC summer. The hump has come down quite a bit and I'm now seeking advice. You can see in the pics where the wood is missing on the top and is still attached to the bridge. The bridge plate, braces, and top all seem to be in good shape, except where the top wood is missing, and some small top cracks in the bridge location from when the…
This Cedar Top Seagull came to the bench with the bridge already off and quite a hump where it once sat. The guitar was left in the trunk for a few days in a NC summer. The hump has come down quite a bit and I'm now seeking advice. You can see in the pics where the wood is missing on the top and is still attached to the bridge. The bridge plate, braces, and top all seem to be in good shape, except where the top wood is missing, and some small top cracks in the bridge location from when the bridge lifted. With the bridge sitting in the correct spot and the front edge flat against the top the hump causes the back edge of the bridge to still sit just proud of 2/32 above the top.<br />
<br />
What is the best way to go about this repair?<br />
<br />
I will answer any questions you may have that will help in this repair.<br />
<br />
Thank you. Advice on repairing this soundboard?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-06-28:2177249:Topic:154952009-06-28T02:14:57.303ZKevin O'Harahttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/KevinOHara
So I picked up a cheapo Yamaha for $5 at a garage sale today....with the intent to repair the soundboard, so It will become a decent beach/campfire guitar. I'm not worried too much about how it looks, because it will be a beater, and sound quality is not a big issue either. I just want to be able to re-string it and play it. I've been able to find information on removing and replacing the bridge, and bridge plates, however the previous owner took such great care of this instrument, that when…
So I picked up a cheapo Yamaha for $5 at a garage sale today....with the intent to repair the soundboard, so It will become a decent beach/campfire guitar. I'm not worried too much about how it looks, because it will be a beater, and sound quality is not a big issue either. I just want to be able to re-string it and play it. I've been able to find information on removing and replacing the bridge, and bridge plates, however the previous owner took such great care of this instrument, that when the bridge cracked, it continued to pull up the soundboard, creating a nasty bulge, and tearing apart the soundboard beneath the bridge. Any advice for repairing this, so that when I go to attach a new bridge, it holds up?