All Discussions Tagged 'Neck' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T12:03:08Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Neck&feed=yes&xn_auth=noNeck reset on Gallaghertag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-09-18:2177249:Topic:1879442019-09-18T22:25:23.102ZRobert Shermanhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobertSherman
<p>Looking for advice on resetting the neck on an early 1980s G45. I am treating it as a Martin dovetail joint and am heating with the StewMac Weller solder station stick. It is not going. The fretboard expansion is free of the top, there is plenty of heat and I am applying steady pressure with a neck removal jig. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Is this his not a dovetail joint? </p>
<p></p>
<p>I reached out to the maker and have heard nothing back. Advice appreciated. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Robert</p>
<p>Looking for advice on resetting the neck on an early 1980s G45. I am treating it as a Martin dovetail joint and am heating with the StewMac Weller solder station stick. It is not going. The fretboard expansion is free of the top, there is plenty of heat and I am applying steady pressure with a neck removal jig. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Is this his not a dovetail joint? </p>
<p></p>
<p>I reached out to the maker and have heard nothing back. Advice appreciated. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Robert</p> Gibson MK-35tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-07-20:2177249:Topic:1858862019-07-20T23:50:12.350ZDavid Andersonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidAnderson573
<p>I have a Gibson MK35 in the shop that needs a lot of work. One big item is a neck reset. I was wondering if anyone knew if this guitar neck was built with a dovetail joint, or Spanish heel. The neck block looks like it might be a Spanish heel, but I am not sure. Would like to know before I proceed. If anyone actually knows how these guitars were built, I would appreciate the information. </p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>I have a Gibson MK35 in the shop that needs a lot of work. One big item is a neck reset. I was wondering if anyone knew if this guitar neck was built with a dovetail joint, or Spanish heel. The neck block looks like it might be a Spanish heel, but I am not sure. Would like to know before I proceed. If anyone actually knows how these guitars were built, I would appreciate the information. </p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Set Neck to Bolt On Conversiontag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-04-03:2177249:Topic:1779142018-04-03T20:02:52.506ZJohn Gibsonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnGibson
<p>What do you think of this? I know that this is a controversial subject. I have never done it and would not consider it except that this guitar has some unusual circumstances.</p>
<p>Custom built 12 string circa 1995. Two years after build it was returned to the luthier for high action. Evidence shows the neck was reset. One year after that the high action returned and the once again the guitar was returned to the luthier who advised that the owner just tune down and capo on the first fret.…</p>
<p>What do you think of this? I know that this is a controversial subject. I have never done it and would not consider it except that this guitar has some unusual circumstances.</p>
<p>Custom built 12 string circa 1995. Two years after build it was returned to the luthier for high action. Evidence shows the neck was reset. One year after that the high action returned and the once again the guitar was returned to the luthier who advised that the owner just tune down and capo on the first fret. The guitar was brought back home and has sat in its case since then.</p>
<p>When the guitar was brought to me, the action was extremely high and the guitar was unplayable. The neck was pulled way up and there was an obvious gap at the heel where it appeared to be pulling out of the joint. After removing the neck I found very thick paper shims had been used to tighten the joint. I mean really thick. The deterioration of the paper had resulted in allowing the heel to start to pull out.</p>
<p>Once I removed the paper and glue, the joint is very sloppy. More than I have ever seen. It was obviously not well constructed to start with. Another luthier that I have worked with recommended converting the neck to bolt on. His feeling was this joint would always be troublesome and this would be the best way to stabilize it.</p>
<p>I was real leery of this until I found an article on Frets.com where Frank Ford converts a set neck to bolt on. So to me, that lends this method some credibility. The major difference though, is he saws off the neck, leaving the tenon glued in place. This leaves a lot of wood and installing inserts is not an issue.</p>
<p>My concern is the tenon has close to a 45 degree angle and does not have enough wood to handle the stress of installing the threaded insert.</p>
<p>Has anyone handled a similar situation? Should I forget the bolt on and try to repair this joint?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for the help!</p>
<p></p> Ventura D-35 neck resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-10-21:2177249:Topic:1735872017-10-21T20:43:27.517ZSteve Basciettohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/SteveBascietto
<p>I just started on a neck reset on a Ventura Bruno D-35 Brazilian Rosewood made is Japan. Since these are Martin copies, I'm guessing the neck joint is a dovetail but I just can't seem to convince it to come on with the steam and jig method. Has anyone every worked on this model or know more about the neck joint? Tried Google, no luck. Figured I'd put it out there before I remove the whole fingerboard. Please let me know!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Stephen </p>
<p>I just started on a neck reset on a Ventura Bruno D-35 Brazilian Rosewood made is Japan. Since these are Martin copies, I'm guessing the neck joint is a dovetail but I just can't seem to convince it to come on with the steam and jig method. Has anyone every worked on this model or know more about the neck joint? Tried Google, no luck. Figured I'd put it out there before I remove the whole fingerboard. Please let me know!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks</p>
<p>Stephen </p> Collings Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-01-27:2177249:Topic:1531382016-01-27T22:19:52.383Zanthony mashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/anthonymas
<p>Hey Team, I have a Collings CW Mhg A, and the rod is pegged. I'm logging 4/32 on # 12 fret. The top end is a little stiff. I got to say she is well balanced on a G chord so I really don't want to scrape any of the saddle down. Spanning a straight edge down the neck and the ruler drops about a 1/4 inch down the bridge, yup time for a neck reset. I checked out Franks blog on a Collings neck reset and I believe it's something I might try however I have one question that was not covered on the…</p>
<p>Hey Team, I have a Collings CW Mhg A, and the rod is pegged. I'm logging 4/32 on # 12 fret. The top end is a little stiff. I got to say she is well balanced on a G chord so I really don't want to scrape any of the saddle down. Spanning a straight edge down the neck and the ruler drops about a 1/4 inch down the bridge, yup time for a neck reset. I checked out Franks blog on a Collings neck reset and I believe it's something I might try however I have one question that was not covered on the blog. Do I need to score the varnish down the heel prior to removing the neck on a Collings? I have done a few Martins and it's mandatory to score down the heel prior to a steam off. I inspected the Collings joint and it appears to me that the neck and body may have been sprayed separately Can anybody chime in.</p> Vintage Washburn Neck re-set issuetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-10-27:2177249:Topic:1514452015-10-27T15:59:50.913ZChris Vallillohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ChrisVallillo
<p>Hi Folks,</p>
<p>I've been focussing recently on restoring turn of the century Washburn Parlor guitars. I just completed a long on going project, an 1897 New Model 145 and have several others in the works. One is a very nice New Model 201, a mid sized plain Jane parlor guitar that should be a great instrument when it's completed. Based on the serial # and labeling, it probably dates to sometime just prior to 1896. It displays well crafted inside bracing, but no steel bar in the…</p>
<p>Hi Folks,</p>
<p>I've been focussing recently on restoring turn of the century Washburn Parlor guitars. I just completed a long on going project, an 1897 New Model 145 and have several others in the works. One is a very nice New Model 201, a mid sized plain Jane parlor guitar that should be a great instrument when it's completed. Based on the serial # and labeling, it probably dates to sometime just prior to 1896. It displays well crafted inside bracing, but no steel bar in the neck.</p>
<p>Along with several face and back splits, the neck had pushed forward and broken the neck block free of the top needing a neck re-set and some neck block restoration. I was easily able to remove the neck by drilling just behind the 13th fret (rather than pulling it and drilling in the fret slot) and applying steam. It has a pure black ebony fingerboard that will easily take a patch but will certainly splinter regardless of how carefully I removed the fret.<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955992?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="250" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955992?profile=RESIZE_320x320" width="250" class="align-right"/></a><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955992?profile=original" target="_self"><br/></a></p>
<p><br/>The neck came off fairly easily, but as I have seen with similar era Washburn guitars, it appeared that the heel end of the dove tail had broken off. In this particular case, I was able to soak the end piece with wet paper towels and eventually remove it by working a heated palette knife into the joint. Upon further inspection, I realized that the butt end of the eve tail was not from the same piece of wood as the neck (which but the way, DOES have the correct serial number pencilled onto the dove tail). Not only did the edges not match up size wise, but the grain was running in a totally different direction from the rest of the dove tail. You can see in the pic below that the size doesn't match as well as the grain running in the opposite direction. </p>
<p>I also noticed that when the end plug was removed, the dove tail joint went clear down to the back seam. I'm wondering if anyone has come across this situation before. I can't help but wonder if this wasn't a specific building technique that Washburn used. </p>
<p></p>
<p>For what it's worth, I get the sense that this is all original work and this is the first time the neck has been taken off.</p>
<p>Any thoughts and comments from those more experienced than I would be greatly appreciated!</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059956156?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="250" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059956156?profile=RESIZE_320x320" width="250" class="align-right"/></a></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059956226?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="250" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059956226?profile=RESIZE_320x320" width="250" class="align-left"/></a></p> Builders: Need A Replacement Bolt-on Neck Made (National Reso-glass)tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-03-13:2177249:Topic:1443612015-03-13T17:50:31.330ZSteve Bakerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/SteveBaker
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>Long time since we posted here. A repair customer brought us this Airline style National with a snapped headstock.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953679?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953679?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="600"></img></a></p>
<p>We can repair most headstock breaks but this one is not going to happen. We need a new neck and we don't really do that kind of work here. Would anyone be able to make an exact replica? There's no truss rod in the original but…</p>
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>Long time since we posted here. A repair customer brought us this Airline style National with a snapped headstock.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953679?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="600" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059953679?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="600" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>We can repair most headstock breaks but this one is not going to happen. We need a new neck and we don't really do that kind of work here. Would anyone be able to make an exact replica? There's no truss rod in the original but that's not a requirement for the new one.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954092?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="600" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954092?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="600" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>We'd be able to furnish the broken original for measurement purposes. We'd like for it to be as close to the original as possible - re-using the National logo and replicating the white/black pickguard material as headstock overlay either re-using or replicating the fretboard & inlays, etc.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954858?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="600" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954858?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="600" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>We can do the finish work here but would understand if the builder preferred to do the entire thing. We've considered working from a stock "paddle head" neck like Allparts sells but this is a shorter scale length and with the inlay work, we just think it would be overall easier for someone with CNC capabilities to make an entirely new one.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Please get in touch if you're interested. We'll need to talk over proposals with the owner but would like to move forward soon.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks!!</p>
<p>-Steve Baker </p>
<p>Chicago Fret Works</p> Dobro Identification and Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-06-07:2177249:Topic:1336682014-06-07T01:34:50.470ZRobbie Collinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>A 1933 Dobro was dropped off today. The owner began a neck reset, got the dovetail apart, but broke off the fingerboard extension. Fingerboard wood remains on the neck so I should be able to fit it like a puzzle.</p>
<p>The owner says that some of the inner pieces are missing, but I haven't taken it apart. I refitted the neck and ran a straightedge up to the hand rest. It isn't apparent how to calculate how much to remove from the heel. An explanation or website referral would be…</p>
<p>A 1933 Dobro was dropped off today. The owner began a neck reset, got the dovetail apart, but broke off the fingerboard extension. Fingerboard wood remains on the neck so I should be able to fit it like a puzzle.</p>
<p>The owner says that some of the inner pieces are missing, but I haven't taken it apart. I refitted the neck and ran a straightedge up to the hand rest. It isn't apparent how to calculate how much to remove from the heel. An explanation or website referral would be appreciated. An exploded view would be terrific.</p>
<p>The article by Randy Getz (<a href="http://www.resoguit.com/getz/prewar.pdf">http://www.resoguit.com/getz/prewar.pdf</a>) makes me think this maybe a Model 76 as it has a Regal style bridge and binding. He talks about round and square necks but this has a deep vee.</p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954840?profile=original"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059954840?profile=original" width="468"/></a><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955166?profile=original"><img width="468" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955166?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="468"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955363?profile=original"><img width="468" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059955363?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="468"/></a></p> Neck block repairtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-07-12:2177249:Topic:633012011-07-12T16:13:17.900ZMikael Lewishttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikaelLewis
<p> I have a 1970s Epiphone flat top guitar that has been my main performance instrument for a couple of years - it has a great sweet sound and a great neck. A few months ago the action started changing and I realized that he neck angle was low. It has a bolt on neck, so I was able to shim the neck, and it played great for a while, until I tried medium gauge strings, and it started getting hard to play. I reshimmed the neck to give it a 0.4 degree neck angle and it was great - this time…</p>
<p> I have a 1970s Epiphone flat top guitar that has been my main performance instrument for a couple of years - it has a great sweet sound and a great neck. A few months ago the action started changing and I realized that he neck angle was low. It has a bolt on neck, so I was able to shim the neck, and it played great for a while, until I tried medium gauge strings, and it started getting hard to play. I reshimmed the neck to give it a 0.4 degree neck angle and it was great - this time for a week. Then it got even worse, and I noticed that the top of the sound hole was warped down. I removed the strings and hung it overnight and it is back to norm and the neck angle looks perfect.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> On the inside I can see that the top brace on the treble side is separating from the top of the guitar. I am concerned that the neck block may be loose.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> How can I check the neck block? What is the best way to to re-glue the block and brace without removing the top? Should I remove the entire brace before re-gluing? Or can I try injecting glue into the space? After I repair would it be best to move back to light strings? Or can I still use medium?</p>
<p> </p>
<p> In the second picture there is tiny bit of bulge over where the brace has separated from the top.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks</p> Neck Heel Crack Repairtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-17:2177249:Topic:571772011-05-17T14:58:33.327ZDave Domizihttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
Hi All,<br />
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks for taking the time to offer some help and advice with a structural repair on an electric neck joint.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a 70’s Gibson ES 325 in the shop that came in with a neck solidly pulled out of set/gap at the back of the neck heel. It was frozen solid like this and may have been for years, as the guitar had been in a closet for a long time. The neck shows heavy finish checking/cracking around the neck joint, and long finish checking cracks running…</p>
Hi All,<br />
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks for taking the time to offer some help and advice with a structural repair on an electric neck joint.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I have a 70’s Gibson ES 325 in the shop that came in with a neck solidly pulled out of set/gap at the back of the neck heel. It was frozen solid like this and may have been for years, as the guitar had been in a closet for a long time. The neck shows heavy finish checking/cracking around the neck joint, and long finish checking cracks running lengthwise on much of the neck, though it’s only severe around the last 8” or so by the joint. Despite the appearance of the neck joint having been broken, I was unable to get the joint to move at all by pulling the neck around, or by applying some clamping pressure, so it seemed really locked in its position.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I steamed out the joint, which I now believe may have been a terrible mistake. As the joint got close to soft/loose, the steam revealed and pushed out of a long crack 6-7” that ran from the joint up the back of the neck. This caused the smaller outer section of the break on the outside back of the neck to swell/twist, and it is now sprung and very resistant to clamping. I can get a good bit of the crack closed by clamping, but not all, and the dry clamping has slightly compressed the out heel area already. I worry that the sprung/twisted nature of the break will make it difficult or impossible to glue solidly.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I need advice as to:</p>
<p>- Should this crack be glued and clamped as is, and then the remaining gap filled? If so, what kind of glue and procedure would be best, given the sprung nature of the break?</p>
<p>- Are their better, more proper repair procedures for this type of crack? I've thought of some possibilities, but they seem REALLY undesirable. Should the split be routed out and the wood replaced? Should install and then inlay over/hide a large wood screw through the heel to hold the area together as solidly as possible? It strikes me that these other less desirable options would also include some tough refinishing work that may be beyond my ability.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>So, I really need some expert advice. I may be out of my league here, so I’m also interested in finding out for the customer if another expert shop could take in this job and, if so, what would be involved and how much it might cost the customer. I can be reached by email and by phone at 706-549-1567. If you miss me, please try to leave a number that I can use to call you back.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Many thanks for any help and advice. Have a great week!</p>
<p> </p>
Dave