All Discussions Tagged 'Parlor' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T10:45:17Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=Parlor&feed=yes&xn_auth=noRestoring a Washburn Parlor Named Pamtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-09-03:2177249:Topic:1803402018-09-03T23:50:23.843ZChris Vallillohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ChrisVallillo
<p><span>“Pam” came into my life quite a few years ago when a local violin maker offered her to me in pieces. It was a project he had planned on doing for years, but never got around to. She got her name for the woman who it is being restored for. Her namesake saw this hanging in the shop in it's derelict state and asked me to resort it and sell it to her.…<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962022?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962022?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"></img></a></span></p>
<p><span>“Pam” came into my life quite a few years ago when a local violin maker offered her to me in pieces. It was a project he had planned on doing for years, but never got around to. She got her name for the woman who it is being restored for. Her namesake saw this hanging in the shop in it's derelict state and asked me to resort it and sell it to her.<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962022?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962022?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a></span></p>
<p><span>Pam is a small bodied Washburn Parlor guitar with an oval black and white label which dates it to the 1903-07 era. The details of construction and decoration (Brazilian Rosewod back and sides, spruce top, white celluloid with rope style marquetry on the top, binding on the top and back, Pearl dots at 5th, 7th and 9th frets, three rings around the sound hole and body dimensions) suggest that it might be a 115 Model though there are no model numbers on the guitar. A faint in stamp on the label partially reads “Style” but the remainder is no longer readable.<a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962179?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="500" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962179?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="500" class="align-full"/></a></span></p>
<p><span>When I got Pam, her back was off, she had numerous splits in the rosewood back and sides, some quite severe, and several serious cracks in the top. A section of binding was missing from the top and the entire back binding was missing. <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962282?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962282?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a>I splinted the face cracks with new spruce (inlaid spruce into the cracks that were too wide to close). Pam’s original tuners were damaged and she had been over sprayed with some form of clear finish. Pam had a very basic and somewhat beefy ladder style bracing on the top and the bridge was split. <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962655?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059962655?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a> After dealing with the structural repairs to the cracks, I decided to go ahead and re-brace the guitar to an X brace pattern. I had previously restored an X braced 1897 Style Washburn 145, so I re-created the original scalloped X bracing pattern from that guitar. With X bracing and a new bridge plate, the guitar would be fine for light gauge steel strings. <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963036?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="740" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963036?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="604" class="align-full" height="453"/></a> I also thinned the back braces to lighten their mass while keeping the structural integrity. Many early Washburn’s have a steel bar running through their necks and PAM was one of those. This greatly reduces the amount of bending their necks end up with and though I did re-set Pam’s neck, I didn’t need to remove much material at all to get the correct angle. </span></p>
<p><span>Once Pam was re-braced and all the structural work was done, I re-glued the back and rebound it with historically accurate cellulose binding. <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963330?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963330?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a>I did a fine sanding to remove the overspray, but was able to keep what remained of the original finish intact. I drop filled damaged areas of the finish then hand applied a French Polish to the entire guitar (the original finish material). I did this with the neck still off the body to make for a cleaner finish job.</span></p>
<p><span><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963513?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="400" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963513?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="400" class="align-full"/></a> <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963881?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="400" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059963881?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="400" class="align-full"/></a></span></p>
<p><span>After the finish was completed and had a chance to harden, I re-attached the neck, and replaced the broken bridge with CAD designed exact replacement in Ebony. <a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059964726?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059964726?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a> The guitar had some fret wear so I did a full level and polish and was able to save the original frets. I then put on new Stew Mac “Golden Era” engraved replacement tuners and cut a new bone saddle to fit in the bridge. I was able to save ands re-use the original ebony nut.</span></p>
<p><span><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059964795?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="750" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059964795?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750" class="align-full"/></a></span><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059965306?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="400" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059965306?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="400" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059965292?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="400" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059965292?profile=RESIZE_480x480" width="400" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p><span>I’ve been playing it off and on over the past several weeks as I’ve tweaked the action and the tone has opened up a great deal. Pam is as loud as a cannon with a brilliant high end and strong mids and lows, particularly for such a small bodied guitar.</span></p>
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<p></p> Vintage Tuning Machinestag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-10-22:2177249:Topic:1512342015-10-22T21:18:26.986ZGlenn Freesehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GlennFreese
<p>I'm working on a customer's turn-of-of-the-20th century guitar. It's not labeled, but it is stamped on the back of the slotted peghead with "Favorite". It looks like it might be a Bay State. I'm looking for a set of usable tuning machines that will fit. The string shafts are 1/4" diameter and are spaced 1 1/4" apart. Again, it is a slotted peghead. Anyone have any leads? Thanks in advance!</p>
<p>I'm working on a customer's turn-of-of-the-20th century guitar. It's not labeled, but it is stamped on the back of the slotted peghead with "Favorite". It looks like it might be a Bay State. I'm looking for a set of usable tuning machines that will fit. The string shafts are 1/4" diameter and are spaced 1 1/4" apart. Again, it is a slotted peghead. Anyone have any leads? Thanks in advance!</p> Shorting an existing fingerboard.tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-10-07:2177249:Topic:432652010-10-07T18:20:21.055ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
I have an old parlor guitar that I have started rebuilding. The old fingerboard is pretty severely cupped so I decided to replacing it. The scale length on the guitar seems to be 24 inches, at least the 1-12 fret distance is dead on 12 inches. Someone tried to "fix" this guitar with a (very) over sized bridge so the nut to saddle distance was trashed. <div><br></br></div>
<div>My question is concerned with a fingerboard I already have which has been slotted for a 24.9 inch scale length. I could…</div>
I have an old parlor guitar that I have started rebuilding. The old fingerboard is pretty severely cupped so I decided to replacing it. The scale length on the guitar seems to be 24 inches, at least the 1-12 fret distance is dead on 12 inches. Someone tried to "fix" this guitar with a (very) over sized bridge so the nut to saddle distance was trashed. <div><br/></div>
<div>My question is concerned with a fingerboard I already have which has been slotted for a 24.9 inch scale length. I could cut the tail end of the fret board to fit the guitar but I would have to move the bridge down almost an inch to get the scale right. This puts me on top of one of the braces plus it pushes me away from the center of the face too much. (This is a very small guitar.) </div>
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<div>I am thinking that if I cut it off at the first fret slot I have a fingerboard of an acceptable length for the guitar with a 1-12 fret distance of 11-23/32 inches for a scale length of 23-7/16 inches. This is about 1/2 inch shorter than the original but keeps me in the center of the face. ( and within the area that is already messed up on the guitar face. )</div>
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<div>Am I thinking correctly or is there a "gotcha" that I am missing? </div>