All Discussions Tagged 'bridge' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T12:53:24Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=bridge&feed=yes&xn_auth=noBridge blank mockupstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-08-20:2177249:Topic:1801682018-08-20T22:43:30.238ZBruce Ericksonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BruceErickson
<p>Hey all,</p>
<p>I'm looking for a suitable wood to make some test bridges, mostly to gain experience but also to use as mockups. I obviously don't want to use valuable stuff like rosewood, ebony, etc. but something that will simulate those characteristics with saws and sanders. Also a little cheaper! These will most likely never sit on a guitar.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Any suggestions? </p>
<p>Hey all,</p>
<p>I'm looking for a suitable wood to make some test bridges, mostly to gain experience but also to use as mockups. I obviously don't want to use valuable stuff like rosewood, ebony, etc. but something that will simulate those characteristics with saws and sanders. Also a little cheaper! These will most likely never sit on a guitar.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Any suggestions? </p> Bridge and Saddle Measurement Differencestag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-08-06:2177249:Topic:1718642017-08-06T00:44:45.858ZBill Coryhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BillCory716
<p>Regarding measuring for bridge/saddle placement:</p>
<p>In kits, Martin recommends adding 1/10" to the scale length and placing the near (sound hole-side) High-E end, edge of the saddle slot at that measurement.</p>
<p>Stewmac, on the other hand, recommends adding 7/64" (about the same amount) to the scale length, but they say to place the middle of the saddle slot between the D-G strings at that measurement.</p>
<p>Clearly, they agree on the basic amount to add, but the difference in…</p>
<p>Regarding measuring for bridge/saddle placement:</p>
<p>In kits, Martin recommends adding 1/10" to the scale length and placing the near (sound hole-side) High-E end, edge of the saddle slot at that measurement.</p>
<p>Stewmac, on the other hand, recommends adding 7/64" (about the same amount) to the scale length, but they say to place the middle of the saddle slot between the D-G strings at that measurement.</p>
<p>Clearly, they agree on the basic amount to add, but the difference in measurement point throws that agreement all out the window.</p>
<p>Martin's edge-of saddle procedure puts the bridge farther from the sound hole, increasing compensation, while Stewmac's center-of-saddle-slot procedure puts the bridge closer, decreasing compensation.</p>
<p>I'm curious -- why the difference? Is it, as Paul Hostetter said on his site (lutherie.net/saddle_angle.html) a problem with Martin using an outdated system? Or is Stewmac way off?</p>
<p>I'm genuinely wanting to find out if either of these is closer to "correct," all other things being equal on the guitar.</p>
<p>Thanks in advance --Hoping for clarification</p>
<p>Bill</p>
<p></p> Extra long bridge pins neededtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2017-03-24:2177249:Topic:1681832017-03-24T22:23:04.041ZSteve Bakerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/SteveBaker
<p>I need a set of extra long bridge pins. We're working on a 70's Gibson J-50 that has had some strange repairs done. Primarily, it's had a weird, decades old neck reset that included a tongue shim. Of course, this aimed the fretboard over half an inch above the top and necessitated the repairman making a really tall bridge. Underneath that, there's also a bridge plate cap that's on top of the old plate. All of this added mass means, among other things, that the bridge pins barely poke out…</p>
<p>I need a set of extra long bridge pins. We're working on a 70's Gibson J-50 that has had some strange repairs done. Primarily, it's had a weird, decades old neck reset that included a tongue shim. Of course, this aimed the fretboard over half an inch above the top and necessitated the repairman making a really tall bridge. Underneath that, there's also a bridge plate cap that's on top of the old plate. All of this added mass means, among other things, that the bridge pins barely poke out enough to hold a ball end in place.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059958093?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059958093?profile=original" width="640" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p>Of course, we could (should) reset the neck and remove all that excess timber but it's not the right time for this owner. And overall, it's semi playable. So the band-aid we're searching for is extra long bridge pins - ideally with a shaft over a full inch. The longest I've found are around .960</p>
<p></p>
<p>So, does anyone make or know of a maker of custom bridge pins that could make a set? Nothing exotic or super pricy material wise - wood would be great.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Neck and bridge alignment for Les Paul buildstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-03-22:2177249:Topic:1290552014-03-22T01:11:22.832ZMicha Schellhaashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MichaSchellhaas
<p>Hi everybody,</p>
<p></p>
<p>at this stage of my first batch of builds I need some advice from the pros.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I am happy how everything is progressing, and everything is looking good. After routing and sanding however, the bodies are not 100% to template anymore. I figured all that really matters is correct neck and bridge alignment.</p>
<p>If I match the neck template with the center line of the maple top, the neck would stick out about 2mm in the cutaway (especially for one of…</p>
<p>Hi everybody,</p>
<p></p>
<p>at this stage of my first batch of builds I need some advice from the pros.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I am happy how everything is progressing, and everything is looking good. After routing and sanding however, the bodies are not 100% to template anymore. I figured all that really matters is correct neck and bridge alignment.</p>
<p>If I match the neck template with the center line of the maple top, the neck would stick out about 2mm in the cutaway (especially for one of them) SEE PICTURE. I was thinking of drawing a new center line and making sure the neck template is not overlapping.</p>
<p>Also, when is the best time and the proper way to drill for the bridge? it is easier before carving the top, but my intuition says I should wait until after routing the neck pocket and fitting the neck. Then I can measure the exact bridge position, right?</p>
<p>Thanks in advance for your help!</p>
<p></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952442?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952442?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p>
<p><a target="_self" href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952467?profile=original"><img width="750" class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059952467?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="750"/></a></p> Small quantities--sign painter's tape, 3M Stickit Goldtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-08-26:2177249:Topic:1163572013-08-26T02:34:15.867ZLARRY KLOSEhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LARRYKLOSE
<p>I'm about to fit a new bridge to an archtop guitar. Dan Earlewine has a good StewMac trade secrets column on how to do it with a Stew Mac bridge fitting jig, but he uses sign painter's tape and 3M Stickit Gold paper. I'd like to find a source for small quantities of either, since I don't do that much guitar work and probably would never use whole rolls of either sandpaper grit or the tape. Does anyone know a source for small quantities? I haven't seen either the paper or the tape in the…</p>
<p>I'm about to fit a new bridge to an archtop guitar. Dan Earlewine has a good StewMac trade secrets column on how to do it with a Stew Mac bridge fitting jig, but he uses sign painter's tape and 3M Stickit Gold paper. I'd like to find a source for small quantities of either, since I don't do that much guitar work and probably would never use whole rolls of either sandpaper grit or the tape. Does anyone know a source for small quantities? I haven't seen either the paper or the tape in the local hardware... . Otherwise, I'll use regular paper and figure out a way to hold it down.</p>
<p>I plan to buy a StewMac Bridge Fitting Jig and then sell it after. I've fitted a couple of bridges before "freehand" and this tool, while a little pricey, is what I think I need to do a good job. It does look like something I could make for a one-off, but finding the materials and building it up seems like more time and labor than it's worth for one job. I figure that buying and then passing on the tool is a good way to get its use for a reasonable price.</p>
<p>BTW, Dan E. warns about the possible damage to finish from regular masking tape and I concur: this guitar has a nitro finish and when it was shipped to me the shipper used stick-it notes to mark the approximate location of the bridge. The notes left a nice bit of crazed finish under the sticky parts.</p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">Comments?</span></p> Top-loading acoustic bridge opinions?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-10-13:2177249:Topic:949442012-10-13T00:53:15.611ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>I've got a 1960's Harmony Sovereign on the bench that is a new acquisition by a mutual friend of my cousin, who also owns one of these. They're great guitars with a nice "Stones" kinda' sound. The top-loading bridges on these are really pretty cool and easy to deal with and the seem to preclude the mistakes many guitarists make in improperly seating the string ball against the bridge plate with a traditional design. They appear to be a really smart design to me on the…</p>
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>I've got a 1960's Harmony Sovereign on the bench that is a new acquisition by a mutual friend of my cousin, who also owns one of these. They're great guitars with a nice "Stones" kinda' sound. The top-loading bridges on these are really pretty cool and easy to deal with and the seem to preclude the mistakes many guitarists make in improperly seating the string ball against the bridge plate with a traditional design. They appear to be a really smart design to me on the practical side of things, but I'm curious as to your opinions on these sorts of bridges in regard to tone, especially in comparison to the traditional style with bridge pins. Has anyone ever used this sort of bridge design on a hand-made custom guitar?<br/><br/>Feel free to chime in, I'd like your thoughts on this. Thanks! -John</p> Bridge Plate grain orientation, and sizingtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-06-23:2177249:Topic:901862012-06-23T20:56:58.380Zfred huanghttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/fredhuang
<p>I completetly agree with Frank Ford's choice on bridge plate grain orientation. It just makes sense - the plate doesn't get cracked along the grain by the string end rings (what are these things called anyways)</p>
<p>But, then why, do all the big makers do it like that? Is it cost saving in wood? Is there tonal difference?</p>
<p>Also, Mr. Ford advocates making the bridge plate 1/2" distance beyond the string hole. OK, I agree, that it would be stronger, and maybe counteract bellying…</p>
<p>I completetly agree with Frank Ford's choice on bridge plate grain orientation. It just makes sense - the plate doesn't get cracked along the grain by the string end rings (what are these things called anyways)</p>
<p>But, then why, do all the big makers do it like that? Is it cost saving in wood? Is there tonal difference?</p>
<p>Also, Mr. Ford advocates making the bridge plate 1/2" distance beyond the string hole. OK, I agree, that it would be stronger, and maybe counteract bellying better.</p>
<p>But I've seen bridge plates where the back end of the plate is very near the string holes... like on a Gibson LG3. Is it because of the bridge screws they use, will counteract string pulling pressure. Or is made smaller to get more top tone? The old Yamaha "Red Label" guitars are like this, but they also have a bigger bridge on the top.</p> Bridge with Hide Glue dry timetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-09-07:2177249:Topic:703392011-09-07T02:01:31.118ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Hi, I have a situation where someone needs a guitar bridge repaired fairly quickly. I should be ready to adhere the bridge tomorrow (Wednesday) with hot hide glue. The guitar will then need to be slotted/drilled and all of that. This person would like to have the guitar ready to roll by Friday. Given that I would need to have the bridge clamped about 24 hours (that puts me at taking the clamps off Thursday morning to early afternoon, I would then really only have Thursday evening or…</p>
<p>Hi, I have a situation where someone needs a guitar bridge repaired fairly quickly. I should be ready to adhere the bridge tomorrow (Wednesday) with hot hide glue. The guitar will then need to be slotted/drilled and all of that. This person would like to have the guitar ready to roll by Friday. Given that I would need to have the bridge clamped about 24 hours (that puts me at taking the clamps off Thursday morning to early afternoon, I would then really only have Thursday evening or Friday morning to finalize the saddle shaping for proper intonation. So I would be looking at applying string tension to the bridge within 6-12 hours of taking the clamps off. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Is this wise? How much time do you allow a bridge to dry with clamps, and later without clamps, before applying string tension? </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Many thanks!</p> correct bridge placementtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-02-22:2177249:Topic:523052011-02-22T05:22:56.131Zjoe strummerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/joestrummer
<p> </p>
<p><strong><em>i'ma new guy to banjos -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>would like to make sure the bridge is in the proper place -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>can i use a tuner and the 12th fret like on a guitar? -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>anyone shed light on a mathematical formula for this? -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>or a chart for the scale lengths? -</em></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong><em>thanx!</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em><br/></em></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong><em>i'ma new guy to banjos -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>would like to make sure the bridge is in the proper place -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>can i use a tuner and the 12th fret like on a guitar? -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>anyone shed light on a mathematical formula for this? -</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em>or a chart for the scale lengths? -</em></strong></p>
<p> </p>
<p><strong><em>thanx!</em></strong></p>
<p><strong><em><br/></em></strong></p> Torn Wood Grain Under Bridgetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-01-13:2177249:Topic:502222011-01-13T18:15:11.165ZDoug Millerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DougMiller
<p>The Bridge has lifted from my 2006 G3 acoustic 6 string. It is not a pegged bridge but rather a string through style bridge.</p>
<p>When the bridge lifted, it removed some wood fiber from the spruce top...the grain in the top seems to be running out towards the rear which could be part of the reason it lifted in the beginning.</p>
<p>This guitar is from a highly regarded luthier, but since I am second owner so he is unwilling to do the repair on warranty.</p>
<p>A local repairman/luthier…</p>
<p>The Bridge has lifted from my 2006 G3 acoustic 6 string. It is not a pegged bridge but rather a string through style bridge.</p>
<p>When the bridge lifted, it removed some wood fiber from the spruce top...the grain in the top seems to be running out towards the rear which could be part of the reason it lifted in the beginning.</p>
<p>This guitar is from a highly regarded luthier, but since I am second owner so he is unwilling to do the repair on warranty.</p>
<p>A local repairman/luthier would not repair it saying he thinks it should have a pegged bridge and with the torn wood grain it could never be strong enough in his opinion.</p>
<p>So I am left wondering what to do and in particular...what, if anything, can be done to fill the lost wood fibre from the top?</p>
<p>Any comments from you luthiers and repair persons would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>Doug</p>