All Discussions Tagged 'cleats' - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T11:31:26Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=cleats&feed=yes&xn_auth=noClosing of crackstag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-06-06:2177249:Topic:1913442020-06-06T14:38:56.839ZBob Steinarssonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BobSteinarsson
<p>Dear luthiers</p>
<p>I have a question about repairing cracks in flat tops. I have read what I have found about this topic in this forum, but I have not found answers to my two questions.</p>
<p>Picture no. 1 shows a crack in a guitar that has been humidified in high rel. humidity (70%). After some days, the crack was absolutely gone. I then left it in a room with about 40% rel. humidity. After several days the crack looks like what you see on the picture. The string is 0.011”, and the…</p>
<p>Dear luthiers</p>
<p>I have a question about repairing cracks in flat tops. I have read what I have found about this topic in this forum, but I have not found answers to my two questions.</p>
<p>Picture no. 1 shows a crack in a guitar that has been humidified in high rel. humidity (70%). After some days, the crack was absolutely gone. I then left it in a room with about 40% rel. humidity. After several days the crack looks like what you see on the picture. The string is 0.011”, and the crack is at its widest approx. the same.</p>
<p>Picture no. 2 is of a Larrivee that had a similar crack, and that I treated in the same way. After some days in normal conditions, the crack opened a little, and I glued it with white glue and glued two small cleats over the crack inside the guitar. As you can see, the seam became black. It is very narrow, but it still is disturbing.</p>
<p>Then to the questions:</p>
<ul>
<li>In order to prevent the discoloring of the crack, I am tempted to humidify the guitar until the crack closes completely again and then glue two cleats over the crack without further gluing of the seam. My idea is that this would be enough to stabilize the crack forever. Is the crack too wide for this? At the widest, the crack is approx. as wide as the string. I am afraid of new cracks.</li>
<li>Has anybody an idea of how to hide the black line in the crack on picture no. 2? The glue is “under” the top, so there will be space for some very fine filler.</li>
</ul>
<p>Thanks</p> White glue for top cracks and cleats?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-05-06:2177249:Topic:1319352014-05-06T15:28:13.941ZMark Pollockhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>So, I am a hide glue adherent. (See what I did there?)</p>
<p></p>
<p>My buddy who has roughly 50 years of experience repairing instruments strongly suggested using white glue for top cracks and cleats, because it has a little give which helps keep cracks from reopening. I'm feeling skeptical, but I have no hard evidence to back my skepticism. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I do see the usefulness of white glue for gluing where the joint might be contaminated with other unknown glue in the past, on…</p>
<p>So, I am a hide glue adherent. (See what I did there?)</p>
<p></p>
<p>My buddy who has roughly 50 years of experience repairing instruments strongly suggested using white glue for top cracks and cleats, because it has a little give which helps keep cracks from reopening. I'm feeling skeptical, but I have no hard evidence to back my skepticism. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I do see the usefulness of white glue for gluing where the joint might be contaminated with other unknown glue in the past, on instruments that are of lesser quality of value. (I used white glue to put the back on a Silvertone plywood archtop recently, figuring that the longer work time was far more important than the ability to be taken apart again in the future - if this things fall apart, nobody will be dying to save it.)</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thoughts? </p>