All Discussions Tagged 'fingerboard' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T01:42:04Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=fingerboard&feed=yes&xn_auth=noOrder of Operations Advicetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-12-04:2177249:Topic:2306802020-12-04T15:50:35.861ZBay Rum Aroundhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/David57
<div>Frank's <a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Fingerboard Top Crack</a><span> </span>has been my guide in dealing with an MD-12 that has the same issue but one addition--the soundboard has split along the centerline below the bridge, peeling up (see photos.) In what order should these be addressed? Do I first "stretch" the soundboard into position using Frank's method? Or does the…</div>
<div>Frank's <a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Fingerboard Top Crack</a><span> </span>has been my guide in dealing with an MD-12 that has the same issue but one addition--the soundboard has split along the centerline below the bridge, peeling up (see photos.) In what order should these be addressed? Do I first "stretch" the soundboard into position using Frank's method? Or does the lower bout's crack need to dealt with before that?</div>
<p>Thanks.</p>
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<p>Thank you for the admission here. I'm at a loss and have been searching for info on cutting fret slots in a violin fingerboard. A google search brought me here so I hope you don't find me too awfully irritating. While waiting for my admission here to be approved I search your forum posts for anything about violin frets and found nothing.</p>
<p>I have a Yinfente 5 string electric violin with a standard fingerboard and wanted to get a fretted (24 total) fingerboard and replace it... guess…</p>
<p>Thank you for the admission here. I'm at a loss and have been searching for info on cutting fret slots in a violin fingerboard. A google search brought me here so I hope you don't find me too awfully irritating. While waiting for my admission here to be approved I search your forum posts for anything about violin frets and found nothing.</p>
<p>I have a Yinfente 5 string electric violin with a standard fingerboard and wanted to get a fretted (24 total) fingerboard and replace it... guess what, nowhere can I find a fretted fingerboard for a violin, especially a 5 string version. One company that does work, builds instruments and on occasion takes in other jobs, wants $600 for a total fretted fingerboard! Holy smokes... about double what this violin cost new! I don't think so.</p>
<p>So I've searched for the tools but every fret making jig or saw is made with the intent of flat frets on a flat board, and the violin has a multitude of complex curves and although I have made a violin from scratch for a personal project, I'm at a loss to cut frets in a blank. I know the spacing based on a 330mm string length. At one end my fingerboard is 28.9mm wide and the opposite end (bridge end) it's 44.8mm wide. With a standard (?) radius of 42mm at the bridge end and tapered to nothing on the nut end, how would you cut those fret slots and install the wires? Make the fretted fingerboard non-scouped and symmetrical?</p>
<p>I have thought of using that tool tile layers use to transfer irregular shapes to tile to maintain the correct curve of the board to a 'stop' on the side of the fret saw, perhaps I will have to fabricate a jig of my own to hold it perpendicular to the surface.</p>
<p>Any help or links or guidance would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>I have enclosed a fretted fingerboard found on the Woods violins as a reference as to what I want to make. Also a picture of my electric I want to modify.</p>
<p></p> Botched nut channel--filed into fingerboard materialtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-10-14:2177249:Topic:1383422014-10-14T21:07:59.950ZRussell Hollandhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellHolland
<p>I may have filed into the end of the fingerboard slightly while preparing my Yamaha acoustic guitar's nut channel for a new nut. It's not really visible (to my eye), but with a caliper I can see that the distance from the first fret to the new nut (which I have already completed) is very slightly greater on the treble side than the bass side. With the new nut and new strings on the guitar, there seem to be some intonation problems beyond the inherent imperfections of a…</p>
<p>I may have filed into the end of the fingerboard slightly while preparing my Yamaha acoustic guitar's nut channel for a new nut. It's not really visible (to my eye), but with a caliper I can see that the distance from the first fret to the new nut (which I have already completed) is very slightly greater on the treble side than the bass side. With the new nut and new strings on the guitar, there seem to be some intonation problems beyond the inherent imperfections of a guitar.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I noted a slight wobble (end of fingerboard wasn't flat) while fitting the nut which foreshadowed this, but I couldn't tell where the glue ended and the wood began, so I wasn't sure exactly what to do. In an effort to get a flat surface on the end of the fingerboard for the nut to sit tightly against, I filed it just a little, but now the fingerboard is less than square. In my defense, the nut channel was already messed up!</p>
<p></p>
<p>If I want to shim the channel in order to move the nut back toward the peghead and situated at the proper angle, is there a way to figure out exactly how far it should be from the first (or another) fret? Is there a material and adhesive that would be good for this? Or is this a stupid idea? Hoping I haven't ruined my guitar.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The scale length (nut to center of 12th fret multiplied by 2) seems to be very close to 24 15/16" (which I have not heard of as a standard scale length). I took this measurement on another Yamaha guitar with similar fret spacing which (I am assuming) had not had its nut channel botched in this manner.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks in advance for any help! Also if this has been discussed, I apologize. Searching for answers to specific questions can be difficult when the keywords always seem to be the same few dozen guitar related terms--fingerboard, nut, file, etc.!</p> Know a "Rule of Thumb" for small fretwire size?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-02-24:2177249:Topic:847352012-02-24T21:15:40.701ZKen in Dallashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/KeninDallas
<p></p>
<p>My sense is that many fretwire conventions we use</p>
<p>today are customer driven and tend towards large</p>
<p>sizes. When I've worked on older instruments or</p>
<p>had other occasion to use the smallest wires, I've</p>
<p>often found the results way easier to</p>
<p>play.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Has anybody ever heard a "Rule of Thumb" for</p>
<p>minimum-size fretwire selection? The old-timers or</p>
<p>old catalogs must have had some rule or method.</p>
<p>I'm thinking it would concern…</p>
<p></p>
<p>My sense is that many fretwire conventions we use</p>
<p>today are customer driven and tend towards large</p>
<p>sizes. When I've worked on older instruments or</p>
<p>had other occasion to use the smallest wires, I've</p>
<p>often found the results way easier to</p>
<p>play.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Has anybody ever heard a "Rule of Thumb" for</p>
<p>minimum-size fretwire selection? The old-timers or</p>
<p>old catalogs must have had some rule or method.</p>
<p>I'm thinking it would concern the radius of the</p>
<p>largest anticipated string compared to the wire's</p>
<p>height and perhaps</p>
<p>width.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Anybody have anything is print or an old experience?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks...</p>
<p></p> Where the fourteenth fret falls - a first timer asks the community for input...tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2009-07-11:2177249:Topic:159852009-07-11T19:09:50.386ZMark Riesshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MARKRIESS
I'm building my first steel string, a small body cutaway, and I've arrived at an unresolved issue: I've cut my fret slots for a short scale. The fourteenth fret is falling 1/4" shy of the guitar body. I'm attaching 2 pics to illustrate. Is this detail merely a convention or is there a compelling reason to insist the neck meet the body under the 14th fret? Is there any other unforeseen problem I'm missing if I proceed without shortening the neck at the heel 1/4". I've checked that the bridge…
I'm building my first steel string, a small body cutaway, and I've arrived at an unresolved issue: I've cut my fret slots for a short scale. The fourteenth fret is falling 1/4" shy of the guitar body. I'm attaching 2 pics to illustrate. Is this detail merely a convention or is there a compelling reason to insist the neck meet the body under the 14th fret? Is there any other unforeseen problem I'm missing if I proceed without shortening the neck at the heel 1/4". I've checked that the bridge will still sit fully over the bridge plate. I'm using the bolt on method, no tenon. The inserts are placed and the joint was difficult to get perfect because the body-side is not quite flat at the joint. I don't want to have to refit that, and it would reduce the heel to 11/16" at it's bottom, assuming I can set the inserts in another 1/4". I fear it would weaken the heel too much to drive the inserts in further and reduce the heel thickness. Eastern walnut as a fingerboard material?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2008-09-10:2177249:Topic:22812008-09-10T02:51:53.570ZMac Walkerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MacWalker
Hello everyone, relatively new luthier here.<br />
I'm currently challenging myself to make a reasonable sounding electric using only domestic woods, so here goes...<br />
Has anyone here ever had any experience using walnut as a fingerboard material?<br />
Considering it for a walnut/maple telecaster I am building, quartersawn of course.<br />
I'm sure abrasion resistance won't be as good as a traditional fingerboard material, but what about tonality and stability in service?<br />
I have seen a tele kit from Grizzly…
Hello everyone, relatively new luthier here.<br />
I'm currently challenging myself to make a reasonable sounding electric using only domestic woods, so here goes...<br />
Has anyone here ever had any experience using walnut as a fingerboard material?<br />
Considering it for a walnut/maple telecaster I am building, quartersawn of course.<br />
I'm sure abrasion resistance won't be as good as a traditional fingerboard material, but what about tonality and stability in service?<br />
I have seen a tele kit from Grizzly woodworking that has a walnut fingerboard, but other than this, I have never seen it used on an electric or acoustic.