All Discussions Tagged 'reset' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T10:48:11Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=reset&feed=yes&xn_auth=noRemoving a neck with a wide square heeltag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-06-06:2177249:Topic:1914402020-06-06T18:47:49.178ZChristopher Parkerhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ChristopherParker
<p>I've done between 30 and 40 neck resets over the years. Mostly vintage Martins. Sometimes some finish touchup is necessary, but they always come out nice and clean.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>However, I had a bad experience with a Gibson B-25 probably 20 years ago. The wide, square heel required a lot of heat and steam to break the glue bond, which resulted in blistering the surrounding finish. That finish touchup was a tricky one, but in the end it looked great. Ever since, I've shied away from doing…</p>
<p>I've done between 30 and 40 neck resets over the years. Mostly vintage Martins. Sometimes some finish touchup is necessary, but they always come out nice and clean.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>However, I had a bad experience with a Gibson B-25 probably 20 years ago. The wide, square heel required a lot of heat and steam to break the glue bond, which resulted in blistering the surrounding finish. That finish touchup was a tricky one, but in the end it looked great. Ever since, I've shied away from doing neck resets on guitars with square heels. Just not worth the headache. I'm not at all fast with finish repairs and touchups, and I don't particularly enjoy it. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I have a Guild D-25 that was given to me. Needs a neck reset, but otherwise in nice shape. A perfect opportunity to gain experience, and the liability is small since it's not a customer's guitar. But, it would be cool if I could pull off a clean job without a whole lot of finish touchup. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I've scribed the finish around the perimeter of the heel, and have the tongue separated from the top. Just need to heat the neck off. In the past, I've used a modified espresso machine to shoot steam into the dovetail, but I recently acquired a heat stick, and I've had good results. My only complaint is that it requires a hole that leaves a footprint which is wider the fret can cover. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Any advice regarding how to achieve a clean removal on this old Guild would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!</p> Gibson MK-35tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2019-07-20:2177249:Topic:1858862019-07-20T23:50:12.350ZDavid Andersonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidAnderson573
<p>I have a Gibson MK35 in the shop that needs a lot of work. One big item is a neck reset. I was wondering if anyone knew if this guitar neck was built with a dovetail joint, or Spanish heel. The neck block looks like it might be a Spanish heel, but I am not sure. Would like to know before I proceed. If anyone actually knows how these guitars were built, I would appreciate the information. </p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>I have a Gibson MK35 in the shop that needs a lot of work. One big item is a neck reset. I was wondering if anyone knew if this guitar neck was built with a dovetail joint, or Spanish heel. The neck block looks like it might be a Spanish heel, but I am not sure. Would like to know before I proceed. If anyone actually knows how these guitars were built, I would appreciate the information. </p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Templates or guides for drilling steam holestag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-09-03:2177249:Topic:1804952018-09-03T22:29:50.661ZBruce Ericksonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BruceErickson
<p>Since drilling holes in fretboards to steam necks off is such a common occurrence, are there templates with hole placements, or a list of placement, angles, etc,of these somewhere? Or is it 'just drill baby'? </p>
<p>Along the same line, pictures and dimensions of neck dovetails. I think I saw a discussion of this on this forum from a while ago.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Forgive my naiveté. I'm new here. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Bruce</p>
<p>Since drilling holes in fretboards to steam necks off is such a common occurrence, are there templates with hole placements, or a list of placement, angles, etc,of these somewhere? Or is it 'just drill baby'? </p>
<p>Along the same line, pictures and dimensions of neck dovetails. I think I saw a discussion of this on this forum from a while ago.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Forgive my naiveté. I'm new here. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Bruce</p> Takamine Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-03:2177249:Topic:1763262018-01-03T20:23:55.384ZDave Domizihttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DaveDomizi
<p>Hi All,</p>
<p></p>
<p>After a bit of research, I though I'd go to the hive mind. I have in an older (late 70's?) Takamine F-360, essentially a Martin copy, that has a fairly high action that would benefit from a neck reset.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A few questions:</p>
<p></p>
<p>1) After removing the 15th fret, I've been unable to drill in and hit the air pocket of the neck joint. Anyone have info of the joints in these guitars?</p>
<p></p>
<p>2) There's a good bit out there about these joints being…</p>
<p>Hi All,</p>
<p></p>
<p>After a bit of research, I though I'd go to the hive mind. I have in an older (late 70's?) Takamine F-360, essentially a Martin copy, that has a fairly high action that would benefit from a neck reset.</p>
<p></p>
<p>A few questions:</p>
<p></p>
<p>1) After removing the 15th fret, I've been unable to drill in and hit the air pocket of the neck joint. Anyone have info of the joints in these guitars?</p>
<p></p>
<p>2) There's a good bit out there about these joints being assembled with epoxy. Is this the case for this era/model?</p>
<p></p>
<p>3) If I can't get definitively drilled into the gap in the neck joint, is there any point to attempting to steam the joint apart, or should I settle for a slotted pin bridge with super-low saddle? I try to never do that, but I'm not sure that the guitar calls for a bolt-on surgery.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for any info!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> Help..Neck Straighten and shim on National guitartag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-06-09:2177249:Topic:1609452016-06-09T21:07:59.035Zdanny mangoldhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/dannymangold
<p>Hi all. I have a question..has anyone heard of a way that a super strong but super thin material ( ebony) that can be used as both a shim under the fretboard to straighten out an old non truss rod neck as well as it raising the action a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p>
<p>Hi all. I have a question..has anyone heard of a way that a super strong but super thin material ( ebony) that can be used as both a shim under the fretboard to straighten out an old non truss rod neck as well as it raising the action a bit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.</p> Stick Glue - Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-02-03:2177249:Topic:1535032016-02-03T05:05:39.968ZE Michael Johnsonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/EMichaelJohnson
<p>A friend of mine who happens to be blind asked me to adjust his old Alvarez. The action was pretty high and the saddle was almost depleted so I thought I might try to do a neck reset. As I examined it I realized that at some point hot stick (plastic) glue had been used to fill a gap between the back and the neck block. I fear that the whole thing was attached with this same messy stuff.</p>
<p>What is the best way to dissolve this stuff? I explained to my friend that his instrument may…</p>
<p>A friend of mine who happens to be blind asked me to adjust his old Alvarez. The action was pretty high and the saddle was almost depleted so I thought I might try to do a neck reset. As I examined it I realized that at some point hot stick (plastic) glue had been used to fill a gap between the back and the neck block. I fear that the whole thing was attached with this same messy stuff.</p>
<p>What is the best way to dissolve this stuff? I explained to my friend that his instrument may end up being sacrificial because of the process so he bought himself a new guitar and gave me the freedom to give it a try and to give the guitar to someone who needs one if it turns out playable.</p>
<p>I mostly build ukes and have only done one neck removal as a practice project from a clunker someone found in the trash. Got it off ok, but the guitar went back into the trash!</p>
<p>Any ideas/advice? </p> Collings Neck Resettag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-01-27:2177249:Topic:1531382016-01-27T22:19:52.383Zanthony mashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/anthonymas
<p>Hey Team, I have a Collings CW Mhg A, and the rod is pegged. I'm logging 4/32 on # 12 fret. The top end is a little stiff. I got to say she is well balanced on a G chord so I really don't want to scrape any of the saddle down. Spanning a straight edge down the neck and the ruler drops about a 1/4 inch down the bridge, yup time for a neck reset. I checked out Franks blog on a Collings neck reset and I believe it's something I might try however I have one question that was not covered on the…</p>
<p>Hey Team, I have a Collings CW Mhg A, and the rod is pegged. I'm logging 4/32 on # 12 fret. The top end is a little stiff. I got to say she is well balanced on a G chord so I really don't want to scrape any of the saddle down. Spanning a straight edge down the neck and the ruler drops about a 1/4 inch down the bridge, yup time for a neck reset. I checked out Franks blog on a Collings neck reset and I believe it's something I might try however I have one question that was not covered on the blog. Do I need to score the varnish down the heel prior to removing the neck on a Collings? I have done a few Martins and it's mandatory to score down the heel prior to a steam off. I inspected the Collings joint and it appears to me that the neck and body may have been sprayed separately Can anybody chime in.</p> Anyone done a neck reset on a vintage Hofner Verithin (Verythin)?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-08-23:2177249:Topic:1363452014-08-23T20:17:16.595ZBill Rodrickhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BillRodrick
<p>I recently acquired a 1961 Hofner Verithin (very-cheap, due to a number of dubious mods over the years, fitted with a factory Bigsby B6. The B6 has no tension roller bar, which means the strings exit the tailpiece fairly high off the surface of the guitar.</p>
<p>This could be a nice guitar if only the neck were angled sufficiently. As it is, even when there is zero break angle over the bridge, the action is still at least 1/16" too high at the 12th fret. One solution to this would of course…</p>
<p>I recently acquired a 1961 Hofner Verithin (very-cheap, due to a number of dubious mods over the years, fitted with a factory Bigsby B6. The B6 has no tension roller bar, which means the strings exit the tailpiece fairly high off the surface of the guitar.</p>
<p>This could be a nice guitar if only the neck were angled sufficiently. As it is, even when there is zero break angle over the bridge, the action is still at least 1/16" too high at the 12th fret. One solution to this would of course be to remove the Bigsby, use a trapeze type tailpiece, and lower the saddle height.</p>
<p>However, I (and my son) would like to keep the Bigsby if possible, which means doing a neck reset. I assume the approach to steaming off the neck would have to be different than the one used for most other Hofner archtops, such as <a href="http://www.customguitars.com/hofner.html" target="_blank">this nice example involving a Beatle bass</a>, since the Verithin's neck tenon seems to be set quite far into the body (<a href="http://hofnerhounds.myfineforum.org/archive/some-advice__o_t__t_249.html" target="_blank">see the photo at the top of this page</a>).</p>
<p>I know ES-335 type guitars are notoriously difficult to do a reset on (and rarely need one) - has anyone had any experience doing a neck reset on a Verithin? Any tips would be very much appreciated.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Bill</p> Neck Reset, Carlo Greco 12 stringtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-01:2177249:Topic:1263702014-02-01T04:02:57.889ZMatt Hannafinhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MattHannafin
<p>Is anybody familiar with the neck joint that Carlo Greco used on his flat top acoustics?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I can post up a couple pictures tomorrow too. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I haven't been able to find the gap between the neck and block, as in a dovetail joint.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The headblock is also extra thick, I'm wondering if it's a mortise and tenon.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for any help.</p>
<p></p>
<p>~Matt</p>
<p>Is anybody familiar with the neck joint that Carlo Greco used on his flat top acoustics?</p>
<p></p>
<p>I can post up a couple pictures tomorrow too. </p>
<p></p>
<p>I haven't been able to find the gap between the neck and block, as in a dovetail joint.</p>
<p></p>
<p>The headblock is also extra thick, I'm wondering if it's a mortise and tenon.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for any help.</p>
<p></p>
<p>~Matt</p> Quick question - gluing ordertag:fretsnet.ning.com,2013-10-23:2177249:Topic:1202572013-10-23T20:55:53.151ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Howdy,</p>
<p></p>
<p>For once I have a straight forward and simple question (hopefully) - hurray! </p>
<p></p>
<p>OK, so I'm resetting the neck on my own 1948 Gibson LG2, I've taken it slow and easy and everything is going right. However, when checking alignment, using a clamp to press down the fretboard tongue, I hit the top bracing that spans the upper bout north of the sound hole just under the tongue. It was a clean snap and won't be any trouble to re-glue, but I'm curious as to which…</p>
<p>Howdy,</p>
<p></p>
<p>For once I have a straight forward and simple question (hopefully) - hurray! </p>
<p></p>
<p>OK, so I'm resetting the neck on my own 1948 Gibson LG2, I've taken it slow and easy and everything is going right. However, when checking alignment, using a clamp to press down the fretboard tongue, I hit the top bracing that spans the upper bout north of the sound hole just under the tongue. It was a clean snap and won't be any trouble to re-glue, but I'm curious as to which I should re-glue first.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Would you recommend re-gluing the neck, letting it set fully, and then the bracing, or the bracing first and then the neck and why?</p>
<p></p>
<p>Many thanks!</p>
<p>-John</p>