All Discussions Tagged 'top' - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T06:18:38Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topic/listForTag?tag=top&feed=yes&xn_auth=noOrder of Operations Advicetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2020-12-04:2177249:Topic:2306802020-12-04T15:50:35.861ZBay Rum Aroundhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/David57
<div>Frank's <a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html" rel="noopener" target="_blank">Fingerboard Top Crack</a><span> </span>has been my guide in dealing with an MD-12 that has the same issue but one addition--the soundboard has split along the centerline below the bridge, peeling up (see photos.) In what order should these be addressed? Do I first "stretch" the soundboard into position using Frank's method? Or does the…</div>
<div>Frank's <a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/D45FBTopCrack/d45fbtopcrack.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Fingerboard Top Crack</a><span> </span>has been my guide in dealing with an MD-12 that has the same issue but one addition--the soundboard has split along the centerline below the bridge, peeling up (see photos.) In what order should these be addressed? Do I first "stretch" the soundboard into position using Frank's method? Or does the lower bout's crack need to dealt with before that?</div>
<p>Thanks.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8248697099?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8248706868?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8248706868?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-left"/></a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8248713499?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8248713499?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p> A hairline crack? (pics)tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2018-01-25:2177249:Topic:1765992018-01-25T12:25:44.132ZArashhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Arash
<p>There's a hairline looking crack on my sound top. I am not sure whether it is a crack or not, I hope you could tell me that. I'm currently traveling and can't find a good guitar maker to have a look at it. <br></br> <br></br> It starts from the lower bout below the bridge and continues as a straight line up to the rosette, between the 4th and 3rd strings, one wouldn't notice it by touch. It is in parallel with the joint line, more towards the 3rd string. It's a very thin line, almost invisible.…<br></br></p>
<p>There's a hairline looking crack on my sound top. I am not sure whether it is a crack or not, I hope you could tell me that. I'm currently traveling and can't find a good guitar maker to have a look at it. <br/> <br/> It starts from the lower bout below the bridge and continues as a straight line up to the rosette, between the 4th and 3rd strings, one wouldn't notice it by touch. It is in parallel with the joint line, more towards the 3rd string. It's a very thin line, almost invisible.<br/> <br/> Here are some pics: <a href="https://files.fm/u/ws5egafe" class="postlink">https://files.fm/u/ws5egafe</a><br/> <a href="https://files.fm/u/j6eusa4g" class="postlink">https://files.fm/u/j6eusa4g</a></p>
<p><a href="https://files.fm/u/zt2yfs5t" class="postlink">https://files.fm/u/zt2yfs5t</a><br/> <br/> Zooming in would be necessary to see it. I should be able to take more photos.<br/> <br/> Please share your thoughts.</p> Hello from new member and I need help with cracked guitartag:fretsnet.ning.com,2016-04-26:2177249:Topic:1586612016-04-26T22:23:29.224ZNick Barretthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NickBarrett
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>My name is Nick, in Crete, Greece, and my guitar cracked while playing ~10 days ago.</p>
<p>Guitar is a Takamine EC132S, circa 1984-5. Laminated rosewood back and sides, solid cedar top. It's been in its case for years and I started playing it again few months ago. It really is a beautiful guitar....</p>
<p>Have not left guitar in cars or excessive heat, but I've ran it through some quick temp/rh cycles lately... house, pub back yard, pub inside etc....…</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Hi all,</p>
<p>My name is Nick, in Crete, Greece, and my guitar cracked while playing ~10 days ago.</p>
<p>Guitar is a Takamine EC132S, circa 1984-5. Laminated rosewood back and sides, solid cedar top. It's been in its case for years and I started playing it again few months ago. It really is a beautiful guitar....</p>
<p>Have not left guitar in cars or excessive heat, but I've ran it through some quick temp/rh cycles lately... house, pub back yard, pub inside etc....</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/sh/eskuypo1q818g1e/AAD384gDwmbsybn-acpxw9EWa?dl=0">https://www.dropbox.com/sh/eskuypo1q818g1e/AAD384gDwmbsybn-acpxw9EWa?dl=0</a></p>
<p>all the jpegs are of the guitar</p>
<p><a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/mb7pzeow34mpqtd/IMG_20160418_103501.jpg?dl=0" target="_blank">https://www.dropbox.com/s/mb7pzeow34mpqtd/IMG_20160418_103501.jpg?dl=0</a> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff8wijijmc1n830/IMG_20160418_103145.jpg?dl=0" target="_blank">https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff8wijijmc1n830/IMG_20160418_103145.jpg?dl=0</a> <a href="https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff8wijijmc1n830/IMG_20160418_103145.jpg?dl=0" target="_blank">https://www.dropbox.com/s/ff8wijijmc1n830/IMG_20160418_103145.jpg?dl=0</a></p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>Have binding separation, top separating from side s etc.</p>
<p>No sinking in top or back, and no fret protrusion....</p>
<p></p>
<p>Have put a sandwich bag/sponge in the sound hole, one in the neck for about 1 week now, but I dont see any progress closing up the gap at the lower bout. Maybe I need to do the "Hesh" bag treatment?</p>
<p></p>
<p>There is also a small crack at the waist that you can see in one of the photos,2nd one I think..</p>
<p>Anyway, I've built one guitar years ago, per Sloane, and I''ve got some parts waiting to become an archtop.</p>
<p>My environment year round is pretty humid, so I' kinda stumped as to what happenned. All I can imagine is the Sahara based dry winds that we have around the time this happenned.</p>
<p>Annual average humidity here ranges between 40- 65 year round....</p>
<p></p>
<p>Anyway, help please, and again, hello to all, I've learned alot from the frets.com site</p>
<p>Please, dont recommend "just take it to a luthier" as there is not much choice at the time </p>
<p></p>
<p>regards,</p>
<p>nick</p> Martin DXM after a car trunk heatingtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-10:2177249:Topic:1302502014-04-10T17:52:38.122ZBob Wittehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/BobWitte
<p>I have been challenged to repair a Martin DXM (HPL top back and sides) after exposure to some excessive heat while under tension. Imagine what would happen and you'll have a good mental picture of the result!</p>
<p>The bridge is lifting and requires removal and reattachment, but the big problem is the newly created shape of the HPL top plate. Depressed or caved in at the sound hole and gently rising at a 10-15 degree angle beneath the bridge nicely curving through a maximum and falling to…</p>
<p>I have been challenged to repair a Martin DXM (HPL top back and sides) after exposure to some excessive heat while under tension. Imagine what would happen and you'll have a good mental picture of the result!</p>
<p>The bridge is lifting and requires removal and reattachment, but the big problem is the newly created shape of the HPL top plate. Depressed or caved in at the sound hole and gently rising at a 10-15 degree angle beneath the bridge nicely curving through a maximum and falling to the tail thus creating a very nice belly below the bridge.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Any thoughts or experience on how to reshape an HPL top after undergoing such an event? I should also note there are no tone bars in the lower bout and a quick look revealed a rectangular stiffening plate attached to the underside of the misshapen top, presumably in place of tone bars. </p>
<p></p>
<p>Any experience on a repair process or knowledge of the adhesives used by Martin to attach the bridge and the stiffening plate is welcome.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Alternatively, a confirmation of flower pot or wall art status would also be welcomed.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks in advance for any assistance or recommendations.</p>
<p></p>
<p></p> Top-loading acoustic bridge opinions?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-10-13:2177249:Topic:949442012-10-13T00:53:15.611ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>I've got a 1960's Harmony Sovereign on the bench that is a new acquisition by a mutual friend of my cousin, who also owns one of these. They're great guitars with a nice "Stones" kinda' sound. The top-loading bridges on these are really pretty cool and easy to deal with and the seem to preclude the mistakes many guitarists make in improperly seating the string ball against the bridge plate with a traditional design. They appear to be a really smart design to me on the…</p>
<p>Hi folks, </p>
<p>I've got a 1960's Harmony Sovereign on the bench that is a new acquisition by a mutual friend of my cousin, who also owns one of these. They're great guitars with a nice "Stones" kinda' sound. The top-loading bridges on these are really pretty cool and easy to deal with and the seem to preclude the mistakes many guitarists make in improperly seating the string ball against the bridge plate with a traditional design. They appear to be a really smart design to me on the practical side of things, but I'm curious as to your opinions on these sorts of bridges in regard to tone, especially in comparison to the traditional style with bridge pins. Has anyone ever used this sort of bridge design on a hand-made custom guitar?<br/><br/>Feel free to chime in, I'd like your thoughts on this. Thanks! -John</p> archtop guitar center seam separationtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Topic:850812012-03-02T23:48:47.973ZErnie Miciakhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ErnieMiciak
<p>Hi</p>
<p>I built a D'Angelico New Yorker copy from Tom Ribbecke's plan (via Luthier's Mercantile) about 12 years ago. It has since developed a center seam separation on the x-braced sitka top. It's about 1/8" wide. I would sure appreciate any suggestions on repairing this thing. I tried a wood epoxy filler (the light stuff in the pix) but not happy with it. Have read about the double blade knife for removing a uniform width of wood then inlaying a new piece of sitka. Any…</p>
<p>Hi</p>
<p>I built a D'Angelico New Yorker copy from Tom Ribbecke's plan (via Luthier's Mercantile) about 12 years ago. It has since developed a center seam separation on the x-braced sitka top. It's about 1/8" wide. I would sure appreciate any suggestions on repairing this thing. I tried a wood epoxy filler (the light stuff in the pix) but not happy with it. Have read about the double blade knife for removing a uniform width of wood then inlaying a new piece of sitka. Any thoughts?</p>
<p>Ernie</p> SEAGULL 12 STRING - BRIDGE CRACKED & TOP CAVING INtag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-05-22:2177249:Topic:578842011-05-22T03:09:20.735ZMark Softichhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkSoftich
<p>First off, my name is Mark and I am new here. I am not a luthier, I am just a guy trying to pick up some skills and hope to be able to build guitars in the future. I wanted to start with some repairs since I am pretty familiar with setting up acoustic guitars and doing minor tasks like fret leveling, intonation, shaping new saddles and nuts. I picked up a Seagull SM12 on Ebay with a cracked bridge and the soundboard caving inward.</p>
<p>I know that a lot of 12 string guitars have problems…</p>
<p>First off, my name is Mark and I am new here. I am not a luthier, I am just a guy trying to pick up some skills and hope to be able to build guitars in the future. I wanted to start with some repairs since I am pretty familiar with setting up acoustic guitars and doing minor tasks like fret leveling, intonation, shaping new saddles and nuts. I picked up a Seagull SM12 on Ebay with a cracked bridge and the soundboard caving inward.</p>
<p>I know that a lot of 12 string guitars have problems with the string tension pulling the bridge area upward so I thought it was just the belly bulging up and I would be able to use a Bridge Doctor, but after receiving the guitar I noticed that the top is actually caving in more than I thought between the neck and bridge.</p>
<p>There is a hairline crack running from the bridge out toward the kerfing and bends up to the waist. At the waist the crack goes from a finish crack to a full open break in the top. See Image <a href="http://img809.imageshack.us/i/seagull3.jpg/">http://img809.imageshack.us/i/seagull3.jpg/</a></p>
<p>Looking down at the guitar in playing position the top dips from the fretboard to the bridge and then it slightly bulges up from the bridge to the tail. Here's an image <a href="http://img840.imageshack.us/i/seagull2.jpg/">http://img840.imageshack.us/i/seagull2.jpg/</a></p>
<p>Looking at the guitar from the tail to the headstock you can see the top is caved in at the waist. <a href="http://img827.imageshack.us/i/seagull1.jpg/">http://img827.imageshack.us/i/seagull1.jpg/</a></p>
<p>The top is also cracked at the glue joint all the way from the tail to the bottom of the soundhole. This crack moves when I push it so it's also a clean break al the way through.<a href="http://img684.imageshack.us/i/seagull4.jpg/">http://img684.imageshack.us/i/seagull4.jpg/</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>The bridge also has a crack forming all the way through the back 6 string holes. This looks like it could be glued and clamped. </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Other than that the guitar is in pretty good condition. The neck is straight and strong, and the back and sides look great. I bought this guitar for cheap so I am not afraid to really dig into it. I am really looking for some experience. If you need any more information or pics from me please let me know.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Thanks,<br/>Mark </p>
<p> </p> Any 'easy' way to cut nice, thin, clean splines for filling cracks due to top shrinkage ?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-10-06:2177249:Topic:431752010-10-06T04:26:54.383ZPaul Lupushttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulLupus
I seem to remember buying a finish or veneer blade for the 8" table saw and setting a shallow angle, then ripping the 3/4" spruce only to within about 2" of the end of the board. (to keep it from becoming a projectile) However, the 10" saw I now have has tons o' blade wobble and I have no finish blade. As to the obvious, I have indeed hydrated the mandolin in a plastic bag, but it has gone un-repaired for so long, the top will NOT close with any clamping pressure short of damage. Any quick…
I seem to remember buying a finish or veneer blade for the 8" table saw and setting a shallow angle, then ripping the 3/4" spruce only to within about 2" of the end of the board. (to keep it from becoming a projectile) However, the 10" saw I now have has tons o' blade wobble and I have no finish blade. As to the obvious, I have indeed hydrated the mandolin in a plastic bag, but it has gone un-repaired for so long, the top will NOT close with any clamping pressure short of damage. Any quick ways of cutting "nice thin" spruce patching splines before I resort to building a planing jig for spruce ?<br/><br/>Many thanks for any takers,<br/>Paul<br/> ES-175 sinking top- another onetag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-06-19:2177249:Topic:310292010-06-19T22:03:34.700ZMeiron Blackstienhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MeironBlackstien
Hi all. I have a newer ES 175 on my bench which has me stumped.<br></br><br></br>The customer brought it on for a set up but right away something looked off... the top was sunken between the two pickups.<br></br><br></br> I removed the pickups for a quick peek inside, expecting to find a
broken tone bar, but I think what I found is even worse:<br></br><p style="text-align: left;"><img alt="" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059943789?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></p>
<br></br>This in clearly a victim of hot car syndrome... and I think it's worse than a broken brace because that glob of glue…
Hi all. I have a newer ES 175 on my bench which has me stumped.<br/><br/>The customer brought it on for a set up but right away something looked off... the top was sunken between the two pickups.<br/><br/> I removed the pickups for a quick peek inside, expecting to find a
broken tone bar, but I think what I found is even worse:<br/><p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059943789?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<br/>This in clearly a victim of hot car syndrome... and I think it's worse than a broken brace because that glob of glue has hardened this way and I can't force the brace back....this is the worst spot but here's some more pics:<br/><p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059943958?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<br/><p style="text-align: left;"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2059943990?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" alt=""/></p>
<br/>The only thing I can think of is removing the tone bars completely, cleaning up and re gluing... but I would REALLY rather avoid that if at all possible. Any suggestions?<br/> Can this be fixed?tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-06-08:2177249:Topic:303052010-06-08T04:41:23.203ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
Hello folks,<br></br><br></br>(just a reminder, I'm in the process of learning the trade mostly on my own with kind friends lending me some pretty torn up stuff for me to cut my teeth on - so far so good, and the old Bay State guitar many of you have helped me with is doing fine and sounding great! Just waiting on my friend to find the vintage tuners he wants and it's done - used cheap tuners to set it up) ...meanwhile, back at the ranch:<br></br><br></br>OK, my cousin just handed me this baby today. I…
Hello folks,<br/><br/>(just a reminder, I'm in the process of learning the trade mostly on my own with kind friends lending me some pretty torn up stuff for me to cut my teeth on - so far so good, and the old Bay State guitar many of you have helped me with is doing fine and sounding great! Just waiting on my friend to find the vintage tuners he wants and it's done - used cheap tuners to set it up) ...meanwhile, back at the ranch:<br/><br/>OK, my cousin just handed me this baby today. I haven't dated it myself, but he has dated it to being a 1936(ish) Gibson L-3. The pictures tell the story. The neck joint seems solid, no pulling way from the body, but the shoulders and top are crushed in. As you may be able to tell from one of the pictures, there was a clear attempt to repair this some time back, but obviously there was a major failure. Don't know if it was dropped or just heavy strings used and stashed in an attic - no idea. Other than this, there are some solid successfully repaired cracks that look fine, hardly any checking to the finish and all looks in good order, though it will require a re-fret job as it was played heavily and the frets are down to nothing on the treble side up to the 9th fret or so.<br/><br/>So, from what you guys can tell, is this (1) repairable for regular use? (2) most likely from stress or accident? And (3), is this something that should be turned over to a seasoned pro? (if turned over to a pro, what would a job like this cost?)<br/><br/>As always, MANY THANKS!!!!<br/><br/>best, <br/>John<br/>