Hoping someone who has any make of guitar that they know for sure has a scale length of 25.4 inches can take a measurements to with-in 32nds from center nut to center saddle. Trying to use that measurement to help get this one time chance neck angle correct.There is no trust rod in this relic so its a one shot deal.!
It was measuring 25-1/2 inches but have a feeling its too long causing flat notes. Thanks for any
help on this measurement!
I know the vintage 69N-20 Martins had this scale so just wonder what the nut to saddle length of one that is still intonated actually is?
Have also learned an 1998 SP000-16 R Martin has that same scale length . If someone can chime in on others with that scale length that would help maybe some other owners take and post a measurement. thanks -Rob
I've never seen or touched one of these bridges so this may be coming from the lower end of my digestive tract, but if you look at the patent documentation for the bridge and pickup used by Baldwin and others around the late 60s: https://www.google.com/patents/US3530228 it seems to me that the intention for parts 41 (Eye Bolts), 41a (Eye Bolt Nuts) and 52 (Eye Bolt Pins) is to be able to adjust the saddle position forwards and backwards along the strings. This means the intonation is adjustable as it will definitely be changed with any adjustment of saddle position A small amount of slop in the left to right fit of sliding part of the bridge in its opening would be all you need to offset the angle of the saddle. This sliding base for the saddle would not do a whole lot for the transmission of vibration to the soundboard when unplugged but these guitars were being used connected to amps and needed to be loud w/o feedback so didn't really need to be the ultimate in quality of sound It just needed to sound like an acoustic guitar mixed in with other electric instruments in concerts and bars...some that Willie and Jerry Reed played in had chicken wire around the stage.
As far as the original N-20 bridge...Trigger lore and the internet say (so it has to be true ;') ) it was removed at the music store before Willie even played it and replaced with the bridge and pickup from his wrecked Baldwin because he wanted to keep using the pickup. No telling what happened to the original N-20 bridge.
Thanks Mark for that info on Willies bridge and saddle .Trigger is one of a kind for sure and even though with limited skills I know I will never copy it.I installed a K&K under the saddle pick-up which works very well. To make sure I had the four sensor system centered I drilled a tiny hole right on the lamination joint of the two sitka spruce top.As instructed by installation instructions the two outside sensors were glued exactly over the two E strings and he other two were placed between the other strings giving an even sound accross the saddle in both tone and volume.I did have to make a tiny noch on the edge of two of the fan braces to achieve this feet. My glue job inside was perfect as there is not one buzz or rattle from within nor any wierd sounds coming from the jack out the back end strap.
I have read that Willy uses classic strings and some times he has to use strings from several sets to get ones that play like he likes them!
I HAVE HEARD THAT SOME PROFESINAL PLAYERS don't like his playing but I like it> Go figger
No guitar will be in tune at all places on the neck.
I am guessing that that is why violins do not have frets is that over time you can fret it sharp or flat a small amout to color the sound.
Keep building and have fun!
Hi Ron- From what I have read he often uses LaBella black nylon on the G-B- high E and bronze nylon on the
low-E -A and D strings. Tha'ts what I have on my mock 69 N-20 right now!
Had real hard time up here in Ontario getting these strings. My first set I bought from states . Then I found a outlet buy it now in Montreal where i got two sets for that same price and free shipping to the door in three days which shocked me.It does take quite a while to get them stretched so they hold tune but once your there they stay very well even with Willies hard style of plucking strings.-Rob
I took this mock 69N-20 to our cities biggest luthier as i had an issue with some flatted frets around the 10th to 14th area. I had filed down these frets due to some buzzing. This neck was actually triple doweled due to no trust rod. It was a one time shot to get that angle correct.I used that Stew Mac numbers to try and get that final nut to center saddle correct.
Anyway he checked different notes around the board and showed me some notes were dead on with his expensive Peterson strobe tuner. There were a few notes that were about 2% out. Basically he said no fret positions should be changed as its that close. ....yaaaaa.
He did point out a high spot on the board around the 14th fret only on the low -E side of the board. Also there is a little low area on that same side around the 12th.He said only thing I should do is pull the frets from 12 to 19 and sand that high area down ,fill in that low area,re-stain/clearcoat this distressed look area of the board,re-slot and install the marked frets in the exact direction they were before removal. Then he said give them a little re-crown and the throw the new set of La Bellas onto Trigger-2. I hate going through the stretch process but we will get there.and soon be playing it again.-Rob
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