Any way to flatten a maple fingerboard - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T18:40:18Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/any-way-to-flatten-a-maple-fingerboard?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A278595&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThanks. Yes as posted above w…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-03-08:2177249:Comment:2785952021-03-08T03:09:13.758ZFrank Capohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FredCapo
<p>Thanks. Yes as posted above was able to flatten the fingerboard by wetting and heating/cooling clamped in vise. Trimmed the heel and stick and got it pretty good without having to wedge the tab. Still a bit high beyond the 9 fret or thereabout but good compromise for freting and slide. I did not glue it back so the next geezer doing a reset will have it easy</p>
<p>Thanks. Yes as posted above was able to flatten the fingerboard by wetting and heating/cooling clamped in vise. Trimmed the heel and stick and got it pretty good without having to wedge the tab. Still a bit high beyond the 9 fret or thereabout but good compromise for freting and slide. I did not glue it back so the next geezer doing a reset will have it easy</p> Hi Frank, I agree with Greg's…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-27:2177249:Comment:2763982021-02-27T20:17:55.970Zonewenthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Hi Frank, I agree with Greg's take on the issue here .. neck angle needs adjusted for correct angle, which in this guitar is a combo of stick and heel. The top on these wood-bodied Nationals are ply and are quite stiff, I've never seen them deform.</p>
<p>I've dealt with lots of bowed fingerboards in the type of guitars I repair, and I've found success in wetting the back of the board with hot or warm water, laying a moist paper towel on top and clamping to a flat surface. One or two…</p>
<p>Hi Frank, I agree with Greg's take on the issue here .. neck angle needs adjusted for correct angle, which in this guitar is a combo of stick and heel. The top on these wood-bodied Nationals are ply and are quite stiff, I've never seen them deform.</p>
<p>I've dealt with lots of bowed fingerboards in the type of guitars I repair, and I've found success in wetting the back of the board with hot or warm water, laying a moist paper towel on top and clamping to a flat surface. One or two treatments usually gives you a straight board again.</p>
<p>Also, another issue is 'cupping' of the board due to shrinkage, especially if the board is celluloid covered. It's near impossible to get that cupping out. In this pic I've wetted the cupped end, and clamped it as flat as I could get it. If it's not better after two attempts, I'll just have to plane it flatter and deal with what I have at that point. The cupping is usually not a playability issue at the extension end (yours looks a bit cupped in the photo) but the one in the photo is actually in first position, bass side, so I'll see how it works out.</p>
<p>Sounds like you're well on your way to getting this one sorted out!</p>
<p>Tom</p>
<p></p> OK. Thanks. I accept and und…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-21:2177249:Comment:2731102021-02-21T13:47:58.607ZFrank Capohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FredCapo
<p>OK. Thanks. I accept and understand that explanation re dovetail joints. I also have come to believe that one component of neck set failure in resonator guitars is the failure of the joint between the neck and the stick. So getting back to my National, the neck stick is perfect, body and neck everything is square and level (assuming thats the way it should be)...built like a tank...the only glue seam failures were a lower portion of the sound well ring, and the lower rim of the top...while…</p>
<p>OK. Thanks. I accept and understand that explanation re dovetail joints. I also have come to believe that one component of neck set failure in resonator guitars is the failure of the joint between the neck and the stick. So getting back to my National, the neck stick is perfect, body and neck everything is square and level (assuming thats the way it should be)...built like a tank...the only glue seam failures were a lower portion of the sound well ring, and the lower rim of the top...while the back looks flat...so not obvious if the top creeped down. There was a raised nut when I acquired it but the frets do seem to show wear...so it could be an original neck set problem...who knows... I guess the good news for me is I was able to put a backbow in the fingerboard and should be able to trim the heel and stick to make it fully playable spanish style as I believe it should. I would think it will need a wedge under the fingerboard tab. Generally it seems to me in reading about neck resets, there is not much discussion about dealing with the fingerboard following the reset...</p> Dovetail joints don’t shift;…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-19:2177249:Comment:2721362021-02-19T22:44:15.491ZGreg Mirkenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GregMirken
Dovetail joints don’t shift; flattop guitar neck resets are necessary because of body deformation allowing the neck to rotate forward. It’s just that the best way we currently have to deal with the issue is to take the joint apart and re-fit the joint so the neck is at the original orientation to the body.
Dovetail joints don’t shift; flattop guitar neck resets are necessary because of body deformation allowing the neck to rotate forward. It’s just that the best way we currently have to deal with the issue is to take the joint apart and re-fit the joint so the neck is at the original orientation to the body. Greg. Thanks. Installing rod…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-19:2177249:Comment:2722962021-02-19T21:22:19.148ZFrank Capohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FredCapo
Greg. Thanks. Installing rod was considered but seems to be unnecessary. The neck and neck stick perfectly undistorted as the body so no obvious explanation. I can’t see any obvious way it could have shifted as dovetail joint could. I have the fingerboard cooling down will see if I made any progress in flattening.
Greg. Thanks. Installing rod was considered but seems to be unnecessary. The neck and neck stick perfectly undistorted as the body so no obvious explanation. I can’t see any obvious way it could have shifted as dovetail joint could. I have the fingerboard cooling down will see if I made any progress in flattening. I thought you were considerin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-19:2177249:Comment:2722852021-02-19T18:47:47.243ZGreg Mirkenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GregMirken
I thought you were considering adding a rod. The neck has rotated relative to the body rather than bowing itself. It would probably be fine without added stiffness, but I would add a CF rod anyway. Your idea of the physics is wrong, I think. String tension has let the neck rotate forward, resulting in high action. The fingerboard extension is being restrained by the soundboard, which is why the bend at the body edge. With the neck angle reset, all should be flat.
I thought you were considering adding a rod. The neck has rotated relative to the body rather than bowing itself. It would probably be fine without added stiffness, but I would add a CF rod anyway. Your idea of the physics is wrong, I think. String tension has let the neck rotate forward, resulting in high action. The fingerboard extension is being restrained by the soundboard, which is why the bend at the body edge. With the neck angle reset, all should be flat. Thanks for your reply. After…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-19:2177249:Comment:2716942021-02-19T01:03:37.414ZFrank Capohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FredCapo
<p>Thanks for your reply. After seeing how flat the neck without fretboard appears, was hoping to avoid installing a rod. But a rod does make sense at this stage. But, looking at the fingerboard, the tab is pulling upward, which may be exerting an upward pull on the top...so the rod may not have an effect on that force...though there is no obvious distortion in the top under the tab...</p>
<p>Thanks for your reply. After seeing how flat the neck without fretboard appears, was hoping to avoid installing a rod. But a rod does make sense at this stage. But, looking at the fingerboard, the tab is pulling upward, which may be exerting an upward pull on the top...so the rod may not have an effect on that force...though there is no obvious distortion in the top under the tab...</p> I think the distinct kink at…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-02-18:2177249:Comment:2717842021-02-18T23:46:27.321ZGreg Mirkenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GregMirken
<p>I think the distinct kink at the heel region explains your high action. Don't worry about the board. If you glue a rod of some sort in the neck and reset the neck to body the fretboard will be fine. Those are indeed beefy necks...</p>
<p>I think the distinct kink at the heel region explains your high action. Don't worry about the board. If you glue a rod of some sort in the neck and reset the neck to body the fretboard will be fine. Those are indeed beefy necks...</p>