Blister in Nitro Lacquer on the Back of Mandolin Neck - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T00:23:52Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/blister-in-nitro-lacquer-on-the-back-of-mandolin-neck?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A126551&feed=yes&xn_auth=no If I was tackling this and t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-07:2177249:Comment:1265792014-02-07T12:22:11.316ZIan Davlinhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/IanDavlin
<p> If I was tackling this and trying for least visible outcome, I would cut the finish completely away, scuff with red scotch bright and seal with something thick and non-penetrating prior to building clear coats. There is a good possibility that a slow solvent would interact with the dyes or the wood and change the UV profile creating a dark spot.</p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">I also don't see a ding. I think this may be the result of a missed scuff step in the finish schedule. If…</span></p>
<p> If I was tackling this and trying for least visible outcome, I would cut the finish completely away, scuff with red scotch bright and seal with something thick and non-penetrating prior to building clear coats. There is a good possibility that a slow solvent would interact with the dyes or the wood and change the UV profile creating a dark spot.</p>
<p><span style="font-size: 13px;">I also don't see a ding. I think this may be the result of a missed scuff step in the finish schedule. If this was the case, and I owned the instrument, I would seriously consider moving this one on down the line. This may be the first of many blisters. </span></p> I guess youd have to know wha…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-04:2177249:Comment:1266442014-02-04T01:24:52.231ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
I guess youd have to know whats in cellosolve, which Id like to know as well, and find a retarder thinner with a similar makeup (check the msds). Id like to know where to find cellosolve of the like in Canada, without having to buy a gallon.
I guess youd have to know whats in cellosolve, which Id like to know as well, and find a retarder thinner with a similar makeup (check the msds). Id like to know where to find cellosolve of the like in Canada, without having to buy a gallon. Thanks everyone for the advic…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-04:2177249:Comment:1265552014-02-04T00:55:55.856ZAndy Mortonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AndyMorton
<p>Thanks everyone for the advice---yes this is a de-lamination that occurred and not a "chip," I didn't think that Cellosolve was still readily available, Is it possible to obtain small quantities.</p>
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<p>Andy</p>
<p>Thanks everyone for the advice---yes this is a de-lamination that occurred and not a "chip," I didn't think that Cellosolve was still readily available, Is it possible to obtain small quantities.</p>
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<p>Andy</p> I typically get my best resul…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-03:2177249:Comment:1268082014-02-03T23:08:47.842ZFrank Fordhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/FrankFord
<p>I typically get my best results by cutting through the finish with a sharp blade and running in some Cellosolve, which flows way in by capillary attraction, softens the finish and allows it to regain adhesion. Cellosolve is a high boiling point lacquer solvent, so it has lots of time to do its job. Acetone or MEK may also work, but it's fairly common for them to be a bit incomplete in penetration or softening before they dry out. If you don't have Cellosolve, a retarder thinner will work…</p>
<p>I typically get my best results by cutting through the finish with a sharp blade and running in some Cellosolve, which flows way in by capillary attraction, softens the finish and allows it to regain adhesion. Cellosolve is a high boiling point lacquer solvent, so it has lots of time to do its job. Acetone or MEK may also work, but it's fairly common for them to be a bit incomplete in penetration or softening before they dry out. If you don't have Cellosolve, a retarder thinner will work reasonably well. Any residual unevenness or holes can be drop-filled after the Cellosolve has dried. Unfortunately, there is a possibility of color change with the change in adhesion/penetration of new/restored finish. . .</p>
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<p></p> I think the issue is about a…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-03:2177249:Comment:1266392014-02-03T22:36:57.679ZRussell Vancehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellVance
<p>I think the issue is about a de-laminated finish, where the lacquer remains in place but is separated from the wood/substrate rather than a missing piece of lacquer or 'chip'. In which case the repair is not simple as it requires the treatment of a 'blind' area rather than an exposed area. You will need to make access to the separated area and wick in some "thin" CA - treating the surface will do nothing to remove the 'haze'. Not an area I'm otherwized knowledgeable about - someone has…</p>
<p>I think the issue is about a de-laminated finish, where the lacquer remains in place but is separated from the wood/substrate rather than a missing piece of lacquer or 'chip'. In which case the repair is not simple as it requires the treatment of a 'blind' area rather than an exposed area. You will need to make access to the separated area and wick in some "thin" CA - treating the surface will do nothing to remove the 'haze'. Not an area I'm otherwized knowledgeable about - someone has done this and they will , no doubt, give the good OK repair schedule for this.</p>
<p>Rusty.</p> Mark, I'd use a small brush t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-03:2177249:Comment:1265512014-02-03T17:21:26.593ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>Mark, I'd use a small brush to touch it up with a coat or two of shellac. It's quick drying and the lacquer could be done right over the shellac if it's clean enough after the "camp". </p>
<p>Mark, I'd use a small brush to touch it up with a coat or two of shellac. It's quick drying and the lacquer could be done right over the shellac if it's clean enough after the "camp". </p> Andy it sounds like you are o…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-03:2177249:Comment:1268052014-02-03T16:03:41.777ZWilliam F.Edenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
<p>Andy it sounds like you are on the right track .Just go for it . And to answer Marks ? you would just clean the neck off with Napta and go back to repairing the neck..Bill...................</p>
<p>Andy it sounds like you are on the right track .Just go for it . And to answer Marks ? you would just clean the neck off with Napta and go back to repairing the neck..Bill...................</p> May I jump on and do some hij…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-02-03:2177249:Comment:1266972014-02-03T14:38:41.130ZMark Pollockhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
<p>May I jump on and do some hijacking of this thread? I know good repair advice is coming -</p>
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<p>My question is - say that someone encounters this situation, but the instrument is about to be seriously played in grimy conditions for a week, perhaps at a camp or a bar tour. What would be the best way to prevent contamination of the bare spot while allowing playability? I first thought that basic invisible tape might work, but that seems like a bad idea for the surrounding finish.</p>
<p>May I jump on and do some hijacking of this thread? I know good repair advice is coming -</p>
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<p>My question is - say that someone encounters this situation, but the instrument is about to be seriously played in grimy conditions for a week, perhaps at a camp or a bar tour. What would be the best way to prevent contamination of the bare spot while allowing playability? I first thought that basic invisible tape might work, but that seems like a bad idea for the surrounding finish.</p>