A 1933 Dobro was dropped off today. The owner began a neck reset, got the dovetail apart, but broke off the fingerboard extension. Fingerboard wood remains on the neck so I should be able to fit it like a puzzle.
The owner says that some of the inner pieces are missing, but I haven't taken it apart. I refitted the neck and ran a straightedge up to the hand rest. It isn't apparent how to calculate how much to remove from the heel. An explanation or website referral would be appreciated. An exploded view would be terrific.
The article by Randy Getz (http://www.resoguit.com/getz/prewar.pdf) makes me think this maybe a Model 76 as it has a Regal style bridge and binding. He talks about round and square necks but this has a deep vee.
Robbie, have you gone ahead with this neck reset?
I think this would be called a round neck. For regular fretted playing.
A square neck will have a raised nut for steel playing.
Some of these guitars have a wood truss rod that is mortised into the neck and extends into
the body, resting on the edge of the wood tone ring/sound well.
Though, this is might be usually on the square necks.
The dobro you have seems to have the saddle notched deeply to compensate for the
Neck angle problem. I would think if you aimed your straight edge for about where the bottoms of those notches
are , or a little higher , You'd be in the right area. Then when you make the new saddle(2 piece),
you have a lot of leeway in the height. You can order these from suppliers, or make them. I think the ebony capped ones are elegant, and hold up to the string cutting better.
I'm trying to put up a picture of a Regal of similar age that I have.
This guitar has a square tenon on the neck which slips into the receiving mortise in the neck block,and
become a wood truss rod extending to the sound well, where it is wedged slightly, and screwed down to attain the neck angle. There are 4 small screws under the pearl dots on the fret board extension, screwing into the body/top.
Those and the screw in the end of the rod are all that fastens the neck!
So, resetting the neck was a simple matter of shaving the heel to the appropriate angle and re-inserting, and replacing the screws!
Please let us know what you encounter on the Dobro.
I appreciate the great pictures!
more pictures of the 1930's Rudy Dopyera F-hole Regal sold by M.Wards
Thanks for all the info, Charley! No, I haven't done work to this guitar yet. It came in yesterday and the owner had steamed the neck off and broken the fingerboard extension in the process. The steam turned the finish white along side the heel too.
This one here certainly looks like yours except that the top pattern is different and they have different tail pieces. This one has a true dovetail joint but no screws to be seen.
Can I get a better idea of the reset needed by removing the metal circle (sorry, don't know dobro part names)? Should the straight edge rest on top of the bridge-thingy like on an acoustic?
Robbie, you might get by with leaving the resonator assembly alone.
The height of the bridge will change some , downward, under pressure of the strings.
The article on the stew mac site explains a lot.
The optimum string break angle being high up under the palm rest,
You want to aim your neck angle fairly high, remembering that the saddle is pretty tall..
So, taking in all the variables, it'll take some thinkin' !
Before you're through, you'll have at least the coverplate off to insert the saddle.
And , I imagine, do all the saddle fine tuning with it off.
Be sure and update us when you do it.