First broken headstock repair question - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T02:28:45Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/first-broken-headstock-repair?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A68823&feed=yes&xn_auth=noLike I said," it's probably j…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-31:2177249:Comment:692202011-08-31T20:34:00.819ZKerry Krishnahttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/KerryKrishna
Like I said," it's probably just me..."
Like I said," it's probably just me..." Lots of great advice here! I'…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:693012011-08-29T22:02:39.437ZAlexander Lópezhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AlexanderLopez
Lots of great advice here! I'd only add: "Welcome to the wonderful world of Gibson-Epiphone cracked headstocks, always a source of work for us luthiers around the world!"
Lots of great advice here! I'd only add: "Welcome to the wonderful world of Gibson-Epiphone cracked headstocks, always a source of work for us luthiers around the world!" Au contraire, Mr. Krishna. I…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:693892011-08-29T18:53:35.548ZMike Kolbhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MikeKolb
<p>Au contraire, Mr. Krishna. I believe the headstock fix is straight bread-and-butter... the hole on the back of the neck is an gilt-edged invitation! </p>
<p>Mack's instincts regarding beveling a mahogany patch are spot-on. There's lots of satisfaction to be had there. Not only would the repair be accepted here, it would be welcome with open arms... my friend. </p>
<p>Au contraire, Mr. Krishna. I believe the headstock fix is straight bread-and-butter... the hole on the back of the neck is an gilt-edged invitation! </p>
<p>Mack's instincts regarding beveling a mahogany patch are spot-on. There's lots of satisfaction to be had there. Not only would the repair be accepted here, it would be welcome with open arms... my friend. </p> http://www.frets.com/fretspag…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:688252011-08-29T16:44:27.369ZTim Frankhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimFrank
<p><a href="http://www.frets.com/fretspages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/Taylor355Cracks/355cracks.html">http://www.frets.com/fretspages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/Taylor355Cracks/355cracks.html</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>*see the finish repair portion of Frank's article. He goes over repairing a poly finish.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.frets.com/fretspages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/Taylor355Cracks/355cracks.html">http://www.frets.com/fretspages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Structural/Cracks/Taylor355Cracks/355cracks.html</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p>*see the finish repair portion of Frank's article. He goes over repairing a poly finish.</p> Maybe I'm the only one here,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:692022011-08-29T16:28:28.192ZKerry Krishnahttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/KerryKrishna
<p> Maybe I'm the only one here, but with the missing wood on the back of the neck, I would never have accepted this repair into my shop. Sorry to sound harsh my friend, and it's probably just me. </p>
<p>It is quite easy to sand the front veneer off the headstock, and that is what I would be doing. Find a nice thick- (er) veneer to glue on, trim it off and put a few coats of Tru Oil on the front. Make sure when you are sanding the veneer off, that you have callipers handy and keep doing…</p>
<p> Maybe I'm the only one here, but with the missing wood on the back of the neck, I would never have accepted this repair into my shop. Sorry to sound harsh my friend, and it's probably just me. </p>
<p>It is quite easy to sand the front veneer off the headstock, and that is what I would be doing. Find a nice thick- (er) veneer to glue on, trim it off and put a few coats of Tru Oil on the front. Make sure when you are sanding the veneer off, that you have callipers handy and keep doing measurements all around the edge. You have to know if you are taking too much off in any one place. </p>
<p>Remember, the veneer on the front is actually structural, and in certain circumstances, will prevent the headstock from breaking off. Don't bother just filling the holes, do the job up right! Good luck with this, and please post pictures when it is finished OK? </p> Would a french polish work ov…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-08-29:2177249:Comment:688232011-08-29T15:44:55.374ZTim Frankhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TimFrank
<p>Would a french polish work over poly? </p>
<p>Would a french polish work over poly? </p> Amateur Ned here.
I definitel…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-04-02:2177249:Comment:279332010-04-02T01:20:13.069ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
Amateur Ned here.<br />
I definitely would follow Rusty's instructions except that I would have filled the hole with a rectangular block of wood that was relieved to fit around the truss rod, if needed. Cutting the opening into an oval then fitting a oval plug to it just seem to be too much work.<br />
<br />
The neck could be preped for a block by squaring up the opening with the "with grain" sides of the opening cut flat to the plane of the block and the "cross grain" ends cut with a 45 degree taper towards…
Amateur Ned here.<br />
I definitely would follow Rusty's instructions except that I would have filled the hole with a rectangular block of wood that was relieved to fit around the truss rod, if needed. Cutting the opening into an oval then fitting a oval plug to it just seem to be too much work.<br />
<br />
The neck could be preped for a block by squaring up the opening with the "with grain" sides of the opening cut flat to the plane of the block and the "cross grain" ends cut with a 45 degree taper towards the center of the hole (like a scarf joint). Cut like this it should be possible to make a wooden block that was cut with 45 degree angles on each end that would drop into the area. laying flat on the edges that are parallel with the truss rod and being cut at 45 degrees to fit the cross grain edges of the hole. The block would only need to be the thickness of the cut depth. If relief was needed for the truss rod it could easily be cut the length of the block before gluing it in. The block could then be shaved to fit the contour of the neck and the whole thing could be reinforced and hidden via Rusty's instructions.<br />
<br />
Ned See the last 3 lines of my me…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-04-01:2177249:Comment:279202010-04-01T07:08:24.669ZPierre-Antoine Roironhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PierreAntoineRoiron
See the last 3 lines of my message higher in the page.
See the last 3 lines of my message higher in the page. I don't think over-spraying n…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-04-01:2177249:Comment:279032010-04-01T00:08:51.236ZLARRY KLOSEhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LARRYKLOSE
I don't think over-spraying nitro on poly is a problem.<br />
<br />
I had to have some repair work done to a Brazilian bandolim headstock overlay--it had been worn down below the finish on an edge for some reason I can't recall. It was finished with Poly. The luthier over-sprayed the overlay with nitro with no problems and it was impossible to tell the difference. Might show more on a patch area on the back but if you're refinishing the whole neck it should work fine after roughing the poly.<br />
<br />
My issue…
I don't think over-spraying nitro on poly is a problem.<br />
<br />
I had to have some repair work done to a Brazilian bandolim headstock overlay--it had been worn down below the finish on an edge for some reason I can't recall. It was finished with Poly. The luthier over-sprayed the overlay with nitro with no problems and it was impossible to tell the difference. Might show more on a patch area on the back but if you're refinishing the whole neck it should work fine after roughing the poly.<br />
<br />
My issue with nitro on necks is that it gets soft under some people's body chemistry. I worked on a friend's guitar and the neck was so gummy that a fingerprint would show. He could destroy a set of uncoated strings in about 3 hours, too. On my own (nitro) guitar, I get some white bloom on the top if I play a lot in humid summer conditions and the neck finish also softens a little. I'd go the other way--poly on necks even if the rest is nitro.<br />
<br />
The builder of the bandolim I mentioned told me that he uses mostly poly because it is stable in the almost constant high humidity environment around Sao Paulo. He started out using French polish but said most of his customers preferred the poly because of the environmental factor, which caused a lot of damage to more tender finishes.. Hey Len,
I believe it's one…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2010-03-31:2177249:Comment:278962010-03-31T18:27:24.738ZRob Mercurehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobMercure
Hey Len,<br />
<br />
I believe it's one of the "Luan's" - can't remember the genus right now but they range from almost balsa wood to some that are much harder and denser than mahogany - with the true kicker of being sujected to local variety in color, "grain" (not real annual rings), and strength. Luckily it's one of the easiest of the SE Asian trees to identify - I've got a whole box of "sort of likes" and "almost could be.s"<br />
<br />
Rob
Hey Len,<br />
<br />
I believe it's one of the "Luan's" - can't remember the genus right now but they range from almost balsa wood to some that are much harder and denser than mahogany - with the true kicker of being sujected to local variety in color, "grain" (not real annual rings), and strength. Luckily it's one of the easiest of the SE Asian trees to identify - I've got a whole box of "sort of likes" and "almost could be.s"<br />
<br />
Rob