Fixing a beatup 0-30 - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T11:26:42Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/fixing-a-beatup-0-30?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A279654&feed=yes&xn_auth=noHi, yes I'm with Chris on thi…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-06-29:2177249:Comment:2796542021-06-29T21:07:18.778ZTaffy Evanshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TaffyEvans
<p>Hi, yes I'm with Chris on this one. Here is how I have done similar damage at times on many guitars. I feel happier using timber. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9159240489?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Taff<img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9159240489?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p>Hi, yes I'm with Chris on this one. Here is how I have done similar damage at times on many guitars. I feel happier using timber. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9159240489?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Taff<img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9159240489?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p> Chris,
Thanks for the advice.…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-06-29:2177249:Comment:2798112021-06-29T13:20:08.432ZDAVID BURNShttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DAVIDBURNS490
<p>Chris,</p>
<p>Thanks for the advice. I was thinking the spruce patches would be the best quality solution but I was kind of hoping for a quick fix, shame on me...</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p>Chris,</p>
<p>Thanks for the advice. I was thinking the spruce patches would be the best quality solution but I was kind of hoping for a quick fix, shame on me...</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> I know a well established lut…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-06-29:2177249:Comment:2795612021-06-29T02:55:42.926ZChris Vallillohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/ChrisVallillo
<p>I know a well established luthier that does use epoxy and saw dust fill tear out but I've always made a point of chiseling out the damaged area and inlaying in new spruce to create a new glue surface. I use epoxy glue to inlay the spruce so if the bridge needs to be pulled later, the new wood doesn't come out. Here's a Washburn 1897 Style New Model 145 I did this on.…</p>
<p></p>
<p></p>
<p>I know a well established luthier that does use epoxy and saw dust fill tear out but I've always made a point of chiseling out the damaged area and inlaying in new spruce to create a new glue surface. I use epoxy glue to inlay the spruce so if the bridge needs to be pulled later, the new wood doesn't come out. Here's a Washburn 1897 Style New Model 145 I did this on.</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9155796072?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9155796072?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-full"/></a></p> O-30 fix update:
1) Got the b…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-06-29:2177249:Comment:2798052021-06-29T01:57:34.022ZDAVID BURNShttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DAVIDBURNS490
<p>O-30 fix update:</p>
<p>1) Got the big side crack and another smaller side crack repaired. It took four separate rosewood strips to reinforce the inside part of the crack. Used fish glue and it seems really strong.</p>
<p> 2) removed the old damaged bridge plate</p>
<p>3) Filled the long center crack in the top with a spruce sliver. Had to remove the old cauls and the loose travers brace to do this. Will reglue the brace and add two long spruce cauls, the Thompson ones you get from…</p>
<p>O-30 fix update:</p>
<p>1) Got the big side crack and another smaller side crack repaired. It took four separate rosewood strips to reinforce the inside part of the crack. Used fish glue and it seems really strong.</p>
<p> 2) removed the old damaged bridge plate</p>
<p>3) Filled the long center crack in the top with a spruce sliver. Had to remove the old cauls and the loose travers brace to do this. Will reglue the brace and add two long spruce cauls, the Thompson ones you get from StewMac</p>
<p>QUESTION: There are two chips missing from the area where the bridge is glued down. I lost the chips so I can't glue them back in. Is it ok to fill the chip voids with epoxy or do I need to make a spruce patch for this area? I am installing a new bridge plate so the area below the bridge will be stronger </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9155705899?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/9155705899?profile=RESIZE_710x" width="350" class="align-center"/></a></p> Hi Dave, others may have diff…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-12:2177249:Comment:2792392021-05-12T08:14:47.558ZTaffy Evanshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TaffyEvans
<p>Hi Dave, others may have different, even better ideas, but what I do is to shape the bottom of the bridge to suit the radius of the top. I have a belt sander that has the desired radius preformed into the base plate, so its quick and easy to radius the underside of my bridges. For the variety of other top radii, I have to address I use different blocks with different radii, covered in sandpaper, and I run the bridge over them.</p>
<p>The photos attached here show one of the methods I use to…</p>
<p>Hi Dave, others may have different, even better ideas, but what I do is to shape the bottom of the bridge to suit the radius of the top. I have a belt sander that has the desired radius preformed into the base plate, so its quick and easy to radius the underside of my bridges. For the variety of other top radii, I have to address I use different blocks with different radii, covered in sandpaper, and I run the bridge over them.</p>
<p>The photos attached here show one of the methods I use to flatten or return the top to its original form, if possible. In some cases that may be flat.</p>
<p>After the heat reshaping procedure, I decide what is the best way to keep the top stable. This may involve a new bridge plate, an added brace, or a bridge plate and brace modification.</p>
<p>The beam across the photo now has 1’’ holes in the area of the bridge so that I can apply more heat whilst still clamped. I have done countless guitars using this method with good results.</p>
<p>However, getting it right with one’s first guitar repair may be tricky. I cannot outline all that I have learned in this space. But you get the idea. Also, you would need the back on the guitar or the guitar in a form to stop the sides from spreading from clamping pressure, I would think.</p>
<p>Just thought, another way to shape the bridge is to place sandpaper on top of the guitar and run the bridge back and forth over it.</p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8915535086?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8915535086?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<p>Cheers Taff</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8915540495?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/8915540495?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p> Taff,
I'm contemplating a tri…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-12:2177249:Comment:2793982021-05-12T02:35:20.633ZDAVID BURNShttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DAVIDBURNS490
<p>Taff,</p>
<p>I'm contemplating a trip to Home Depot for materials to make clamping cauls to fix the bridge/top belly.</p>
<p>A question though, we are talking about actually "flattening" the bridge/bridge plate area and not dealing with any radius on the top as there is on the back, right?</p>
<p>The replacement bridge I got from SetwMac is perfectly flat while the old one I removed has a pretty good bow on the bottom.</p>
<p>Another thing I need to mention is my workshop. I the morning…</p>
<p>Taff,</p>
<p>I'm contemplating a trip to Home Depot for materials to make clamping cauls to fix the bridge/top belly.</p>
<p>A question though, we are talking about actually "flattening" the bridge/bridge plate area and not dealing with any radius on the top as there is on the back, right?</p>
<p>The replacement bridge I got from SetwMac is perfectly flat while the old one I removed has a pretty good bow on the bottom.</p>
<p>Another thing I need to mention is my workshop. I the morning it's a beautiful 78 degrees with 30% or so humidity. It hovers around that temp till the afternoon. Around 4 PM with the door closed it was over 100 degrees with 15% humidity. At 7 PM it's down to 90 with the door closed. Is this going to be an issue moving forward with the repairs? I was thinking as long as there was no stress put on the instrument with string this wouldnt be an issue but I'm starting to have 2nd thoughts. Comments?</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> Hi David, I'm not sure that t…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-11:2177249:Comment:2793972021-05-11T23:06:32.268ZTaffy Evanshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/TaffyEvans
<p>Hi David, I'm not sure that the plaster approach is suitable for a flat top guitar. It is more beneficial for carved tops and backs as in violins and mandolins, for instance. But I could be wrong.</p>
<p>It's true that buying a tool for just one use is a pain and a drain. That's possibly why I have, over 40 years or more of instrument work, made fifty or more tools and jigs that are listed in the Stewmac catalog. And many that are not, yet. However, I have bought the Stewmac version of my…</p>
<p>Hi David, I'm not sure that the plaster approach is suitable for a flat top guitar. It is more beneficial for carved tops and backs as in violins and mandolins, for instance. But I could be wrong.</p>
<p>It's true that buying a tool for just one use is a pain and a drain. That's possibly why I have, over 40 years or more of instrument work, made fifty or more tools and jigs that are listed in the Stewmac catalog. And many that are not, yet. However, I have bought the Stewmac version of my own creations, often after 10 -15 years. </p>
<p>Did the same with flattening tops aids and jigs.</p>
<p>Taff</p> Mark,
Thanks for sharing tha…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-11:2177249:Comment:2791462021-05-11T00:55:27.775ZDAVID BURNShttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DAVIDBURNS490
<p>Mark,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for sharing that info. I've been reading alot of Franks blogs but wouldn't have thought to look at a mandolin repair. I'm going to read and re-read this article!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p>Mark,</p>
<p></p>
<p>Thanks for sharing that info. I've been reading alot of Franks blogs but wouldn't have thought to look at a mandolin repair. I'm going to read and re-read this article!</p>
<p></p>
<p>Dave</p> Dave
To deal with the distort…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-10:2177249:Comment:2793132021-05-10T20:02:34.948ZMark McLeanhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkMcLean
<p>Dave</p>
<p>To deal with the distorted top contours, and without needing fancy new tools, you could consider the technique that Frank shows here:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/Structural/A4LTop/a4l1.html" target="_blank">http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/Structural/A4LTop/a4l1.html</a></p>
<p>Essentially it os to make a plaster of paris cast of the soundboard contour (in its current distorted shape) then sand the cast to…</p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p>To deal with the distorted top contours, and without needing fancy new tools, you could consider the technique that Frank shows here:</p>
<p><a href="http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/Structural/A4LTop/a4l1.html" target="_blank">http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Mandolin/Structural/A4LTop/a4l1.html</a></p>
<p>Essentially it os to make a plaster of paris cast of the soundboard contour (in its current distorted shape) then sand the cast to the desired shape and use that as a form to press the top back to correct shape. Once you have a form to press it into you can potentially use heat and weight (hot sandbags, heated in a microwave, another FF trick) to reshape the top. Disclaimer - I have never actually tried this myself, but I just remember seeing the tutorial and thinking it is a cool looking technique. </p>
<p>Mark</p> I've used fish glue for most…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2021-05-10:2177249:Comment:2791432021-05-10T16:47:55.070ZCarl Dickinsonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/CarlDickinson
<p>I've used fish glue for most everything lately. I like it's long open time, tackability before clamping and ease of cleanup.</p>
<p>Heard lots of negative things about Titebond's hide glue especially if it's not real, real fresh, but no personal experience.</p>
<p></p>
<p>I've used fish glue for most everything lately. I like it's long open time, tackability before clamping and ease of cleanup.</p>
<p>Heard lots of negative things about Titebond's hide glue especially if it's not real, real fresh, but no personal experience.</p>
<p></p>