Glue for Cross Brace Repair and Bridge Reset - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T22:15:34Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/glue-for-cross-brace-repair?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A60242&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI use Titebond for my builds.…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-06-21:2177249:Comment:602512011-06-21T00:52:50.928ZDoug Thttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DougT
<p>I use Titebond for my builds. I have found, like Howard, it does not like to stick to cured glue. As for an iron, I like a good hobby iron for shrinking polymer film onto model airplane wings. This is an older iron that gets scorching and is variable all the way down to very cool. </p>
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<p>I use Titebond for my builds. I have found, like Howard, it does not like to stick to cured glue. As for an iron, I like a good hobby iron for shrinking polymer film onto model airplane wings. This is an older iron that gets scorching and is variable all the way down to very cool. </p>
<p> </p> Howard,
When you reglue a bri…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-06-19:2177249:Comment:604022011-06-19T21:48:35.060ZJim Bancrofthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JimBancroft
<p>Howard,</p>
<p>When you reglue a bridge you're going to clean the old glue off before regluing anyway so Titebond or hot hide hide glue would be fine. </p>
<p>As far as glue adhering, I've never had a problem ever regluing braces and I never clean out the old glue. I've used hide glue on guitars that were originally glue with titebond and likewise titebond on instruments that were originally glued with hide glue. Besides it's pretty difficult to impossible to clean glue from under a…</p>
<p>Howard,</p>
<p>When you reglue a bridge you're going to clean the old glue off before regluing anyway so Titebond or hot hide hide glue would be fine. </p>
<p>As far as glue adhering, I've never had a problem ever regluing braces and I never clean out the old glue. I've used hide glue on guitars that were originally glue with titebond and likewise titebond on instruments that were originally glued with hide glue. Besides it's pretty difficult to impossible to clean glue from under a partially glued brace.</p>
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<p>Jim</p> Is this some inexpensive Asia…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-06-19:2177249:Comment:600752011-06-19T18:54:59.808ZHoward Klepperhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/HowardKlepper
<p>Is this some inexpensive Asian guitar?</p>
<p>The glue to use when you cannot help gluing to old glue and you don't know what glue it was (especially when it's near-certain not to have been hide glue) is epoxy. Hide glue does not adhere well to other glues, and Titebond does not adhere well to any cured glue, including itself.</p>
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<p>If you are asking about gram strength, and given that this is a cheap guitar, I think you should glue the bridge with Titebond.</p>
<p>Is this some inexpensive Asian guitar?</p>
<p>The glue to use when you cannot help gluing to old glue and you don't know what glue it was (especially when it's near-certain not to have been hide glue) is epoxy. Hide glue does not adhere well to other glues, and Titebond does not adhere well to any cured glue, including itself.</p>
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<p>If you are asking about gram strength, and given that this is a cheap guitar, I think you should glue the bridge with Titebond.</p> Jim,
I agree with Jim Bancrof…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-06-17:2177249:Comment:602422011-06-17T14:45:40.255ZJeff Perkinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JeffPerkins
<p>Jim,</p>
<p>I agree with Jim Bancroft on the glue. For the bridge removal, I use a clothes iron. But, I've made a protector from sheetrock, and covered the top with metal tape. It covers the whole top and leaves a spot for the bridge to be heated. I'll upload a pic of it. It cost me about $5 to make and I use it all the time, and works great. </p>
<p>Jim,</p>
<p>I agree with Jim Bancroft on the glue. For the bridge removal, I use a clothes iron. But, I've made a protector from sheetrock, and covered the top with metal tape. It covers the whole top and leaves a spot for the bridge to be heated. I'll upload a pic of it. It cost me about $5 to make and I use it all the time, and works great. </p> Only two choices for glue, ei…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2011-06-17:2177249:Comment:600592011-06-17T01:06:50.047ZJim Bancrofthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JimBancroft
<p>Only two choices for glue, either original Titebond or hot hide glue. You also do not have to clean the old glue out before regluing, that is just not needed or practical, new glue will stick fine. </p>
<p>If using hide glue forget the gram strength, just use quality glue that is sold by Luthier supply places. Mix glue and water to a thin but slippery consistency, once heated.</p>
<p>Whatever method you use to heat the bridge just heat the bridge, protect the top from…</p>
<p>Only two choices for glue, either original Titebond or hot hide glue. You also do not have to clean the old glue out before regluing, that is just not needed or practical, new glue will stick fine. </p>
<p>If using hide glue forget the gram strength, just use quality glue that is sold by Luthier supply places. Mix glue and water to a thin but slippery consistency, once heated.</p>
<p>Whatever method you use to heat the bridge just heat the bridge, protect the top from heat.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Jim</p>