How do you make shims? - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T23:24:53Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/how-do-you-make-shims?feed=yes&xn_auth=noAh cool. Good /interesting in…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-09:2177249:Comment:1428592015-02-09T21:33:49.669ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
Ah cool. Good /interesting info.
Ah cool. Good /interesting info. Andrew, I don't know about th…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-09:2177249:Comment:1428492015-02-09T15:24:36.500Zonewenthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>Andrew, I don't know about the 'squishiness' of other woods, but I'm in SE PA and many home owners have planted holly trees as ornamentals, so there's lots of them around. So if you're handy with a chain saw in the dark of night... ;-)</p>
<p>Actually, I just went to a local saw mill and spent a few bucks for a rough-cut plank about an inch thick, 10" wide and about three feet long ... that's a lifetime supply for me. I'm sure you could find a small piece like that on the inner web for…</p>
<p>Andrew, I don't know about the 'squishiness' of other woods, but I'm in SE PA and many home owners have planted holly trees as ornamentals, so there's lots of them around. So if you're handy with a chain saw in the dark of night... ;-)</p>
<p>Actually, I just went to a local saw mill and spent a few bucks for a rough-cut plank about an inch thick, 10" wide and about three feet long ... that's a lifetime supply for me. I'm sure you could find a small piece like that on the inner web for little money.</p>
<p>Holly is also used for purfling strips. It's a nice flexible, white wood.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Tom</p> I know a violin maker that us…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-09:2177249:Comment:1430392015-02-09T02:26:10.423ZEd Minchhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/EdMinch
<p>I know a violin maker that uses willow and says it is traditional for this job. I used some from her stock on an old Gibson and it worked well.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Ed</p>
<p>I know a violin maker that uses willow and says it is traditional for this job. I used some from her stock on an old Gibson and it worked well.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Ed</p> Ive never worked with holly a…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-09:2177249:Comment:1431072015-02-09T00:14:07.925ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
Ive never worked with holly and I dont think its common around here.. What woulds wood have comparible squish factor?
Ive never worked with holly and I dont think its common around here.. What woulds wood have comparible squish factor? This can be a time consuming…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-09:2177249:Comment:1428422015-02-09T00:07:03.867Zonewenthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/onewent
<p>This can be a time consuming sideline during a dovetail neck set .. getting the shims to proper thickness. I've used veneer, but ran out, so I've been slicing holly on my band saw into thin strips, and using my sanding flats to add taper or adjust thickness. By adjusting the taper of the shim on the sanding flats, I can make a really tight dt joint to the point where I can put on a few strings up to tension to dial in my final neck angle. Eliminates a lot of guesswork. Someone mentioned…</p>
<p>This can be a time consuming sideline during a dovetail neck set .. getting the shims to proper thickness. I've used veneer, but ran out, so I've been slicing holly on my band saw into thin strips, and using my sanding flats to add taper or adjust thickness. By adjusting the taper of the shim on the sanding flats, I can make a really tight dt joint to the point where I can put on a few strings up to tension to dial in my final neck angle. Eliminates a lot of guesswork. Someone mentioned that Martin used holly for dt shims because of its 'squishiness'; the holly will squish just enough so you can 'clamp' into the final fit of the dt.</p>
<p>I keep a box of different thickness shims handy and find two that can get the neck set in to almost flush, then do the final angle/thickness from there..cuts my time down a lot.</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167751105?profile=original" target="_self"><img src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167751105?profile=original" width="488" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p>Tom</p> I imagine one of them Japanes…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-08:2177249:Comment:1428392015-02-08T22:57:16.454ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
I imagine one of them Japanese hand saws could cut a pretty good shim 'blank' from scrap stock, then you could thickness/taper as needed with aforementioned methods and a half decent set of calipers. This way you can use material you already have or have a better choice of woods, although its not as convenient as just having some wood veneer if you can find what you like.
I imagine one of them Japanese hand saws could cut a pretty good shim 'blank' from scrap stock, then you could thickness/taper as needed with aforementioned methods and a half decent set of calipers. This way you can use material you already have or have a better choice of woods, although its not as convenient as just having some wood veneer if you can find what you like. For shims i use veneer. And o…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-08:2177249:Comment:1430262015-02-08T19:51:01.020ZMario Cardenashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarioGabinhoCardenasVega
<p>For shims i use veneer. And often super glue two pieces together. I don't taper them cause i don't have the proper tools for that. Thou i think is the proper way to shim. For the holes i use mi drill press and forstner bits. I found this is way safer for the piece. i used to break shims a lot with regular bits. I trace the shape of the neck to a larger piece of veneer. Cut it to shape with scissors, place it in the neck pocket. Trace the end open end of the neck pocket, cut it with scissors.…</p>
<p>For shims i use veneer. And often super glue two pieces together. I don't taper them cause i don't have the proper tools for that. Thou i think is the proper way to shim. For the holes i use mi drill press and forstner bits. I found this is way safer for the piece. i used to break shims a lot with regular bits. I trace the shape of the neck to a larger piece of veneer. Cut it to shape with scissors, place it in the neck pocket. Trace the end open end of the neck pocket, cut it with scissors. Trace the holes using the neck screws, color the screw marks with pencil, drill the holes with forester drill press and forester bits and fine shape with belt sander. I never glue more than three veneers. Two is ok for me. If you can find veneer in several thicknesses, that's even better. You'll just have to cut and drill. Here's a pic of two of my shims. </p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750189?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750189?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721" class="align-full"/></a></p>
<p></p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750799?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167750799?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721" class="align-full"/></a></p> For a fretboard extension wed…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-07:2177249:Comment:1430032015-02-07T15:32:11.919ZEd Minchhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/EdMinch
<p>For a fretboard extension wedge during a neck set, double-stick tape your piece to a larger piece of plexiglass. Taper with a plane initially, then use the stationery sander while holding the plexiglass. You can fit the piece by flipping it over and lining up the larger plexiglass piece with the top of the neck.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Ed</p>
<p>For a fretboard extension wedge during a neck set, double-stick tape your piece to a larger piece of plexiglass. Taper with a plane initially, then use the stationery sander while holding the plexiglass. You can fit the piece by flipping it over and lining up the larger plexiglass piece with the top of the neck.</p>
<p></p>
<p>Ed</p> For minor tweaks, you can use…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-04:2177249:Comment:1428902015-02-04T22:20:19.158ZRandall Curtis Bowmanhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RandallCurtisBowman
<p>For minor tweaks, you can use tape; in layers, gradually applying it to create a wedge shape. Begin with a thin strip at the bottom of the neck underside. Gradually add more, stairstepping the layers, and checking with a small straight edge to keep the taper true. It is easily reversible with naptha, and can correct the action while still keeping uniform contact. If I really need a wood shim, I take the veneer, or a uniform thin piece from a bandsaw ripping, and double-sided tape it to a…</p>
<p>For minor tweaks, you can use tape; in layers, gradually applying it to create a wedge shape. Begin with a thin strip at the bottom of the neck underside. Gradually add more, stairstepping the layers, and checking with a small straight edge to keep the taper true. It is easily reversible with naptha, and can correct the action while still keeping uniform contact. If I really need a wood shim, I take the veneer, or a uniform thin piece from a bandsaw ripping, and double-sided tape it to a known true straightedge. Then rub it on a sheet of sandpaper taped to a saw table, jointer bed, or other true surface. You will likely need naptha soaked through to loosen it from the tape, but that's a small matter. Good luck. </p> Cool that gives me some optio…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-02-04:2177249:Comment:1428102015-02-04T21:38:38.143ZLuke Singlehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/LukeSingle
Cool that gives me some options that I haven't thought of before.
Cool that gives me some options that I haven't thought of before.