PVC & Nitrocellulose Lacquer: Do they react? - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T06:46:15Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/pvc-nitrocellulose-lacquer-do-they-react?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A146125&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noNed,
I just added a product…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-05-02:2177249:Comment:1461252015-05-02T04:44:45.653ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Ned, </p>
<p>I just added a product called Lundmarks clear paste wax to my Amazon wish list. It claims it's just a mix of carnauba and turps. It's pretty cheap, and might be worth a go. If not ....who knows, it might make a nice pomade. Ha! :-D</p>
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<p>While on the subject of shellac and wax and such, I have a jar of de-waxed ruby shellac I mixed up in July of '09 (I wrote the date on it) and I know this stuff isn't supposed to last long on the shelf, but I've tried the 'glass test'…</p>
<p>Ned, </p>
<p>I just added a product called Lundmarks clear paste wax to my Amazon wish list. It claims it's just a mix of carnauba and turps. It's pretty cheap, and might be worth a go. If not ....who knows, it might make a nice pomade. Ha! :-D</p>
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<p>While on the subject of shellac and wax and such, I have a jar of de-waxed ruby shellac I mixed up in July of '09 (I wrote the date on it) and I know this stuff isn't supposed to last long on the shelf, but I've tried the 'glass test' two or three times just for the heck of it, and it dries nice and hard, not gummy at all! Is it risky to use it, or do you figure it's OK? We are only talking about 7-9 oz., so it's no big loss, but if it's still good, waste not, want not.</p> I've looked at a couple sites…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-05-01:2177249:Comment:1463862015-05-01T01:58:33.240ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>I've looked at a couple sites that have information about home brewing wax. I may give that a try sometime but I don't think I want to experiment on my instruments until I'm pretty sure it works.</p>
<p> I haven't heard of "Butcher's bowling Alley Wax" before. I'll look it up.</p>
<p>I've looked at a couple sites that have information about home brewing wax. I may give that a try sometime but I don't think I want to experiment on my instruments until I'm pretty sure it works.</p>
<p> I haven't heard of "Butcher's bowling Alley Wax" before. I'll look it up.</p> (side note on the Malmsteen S…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-30:2177249:Comment:1457712015-04-30T05:28:56.152ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>(side note on the Malmsteen Strat: Tried out Fender's "grease bucket" tone circuit. HIGHLY impressed, but I digress...)</p>
<p>(side note on the Malmsteen Strat: Tried out Fender's "grease bucket" tone circuit. HIGHLY impressed, but I digress...)</p> (palm slapped to forehead) Oh…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-30:2177249:Comment:1461132015-04-30T05:26:40.523ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>(palm slapped to forehead) Oh man! ...I just can't win.</p>
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<p>;-)</p>
<p>(palm slapped to forehead) Oh man! ...I just can't win.</p>
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<p>;-)</p> Ned,
I have some paste wax by…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-30:2177249:Comment:1462902015-04-30T05:25:39.832ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Ned,</p>
<p>I have some paste wax by a brand called Staples. It's been pretty good for me, but I like my can of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax better - seems to dry harder, though the turps are stronger. Both have carnauba, but both use other waxes too. These aren't named, so naturally you don't know how much of which wax is used. I'll look up Mother's and see what I find. It's always a tough thing to face when a beloved product might well be OOP.</p>
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<p>Wax is also underrated, in my…</p>
<p>Ned,</p>
<p>I have some paste wax by a brand called Staples. It's been pretty good for me, but I like my can of Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax better - seems to dry harder, though the turps are stronger. Both have carnauba, but both use other waxes too. These aren't named, so naturally you don't know how much of which wax is used. I'll look up Mother's and see what I find. It's always a tough thing to face when a beloved product might well be OOP.</p>
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<p>Wax is also underrated, in my opinion. I gave a new setup, pickguard and knobs to my Fender Malmsteen strat (the one you guys helped me with when refretting it - thanks again!) and I used a little wood stain and the Butcher's to add some depth and antiquing to the knobs and pup covers after scuffing 'em up a bit. Very versitile stuff!</p> I agree with you about the lo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-28:2177249:Comment:1461942015-04-28T18:16:12.692ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>I agree with you about the look. I really like the process but it's the look that makes me want to keep using it. </p>
<p> I have the skill to spray finish ( when I have the right equipment) since I grew up doing that but the process of FP really appeals to me. I don't have to rush, since I'm not being paid for my work anyway and I can get it started and think about other things while I work. I find quite soothing.</p>
<p>When it's all said and done, I love the "almost" bright shine I can…</p>
<p>I agree with you about the look. I really like the process but it's the look that makes me want to keep using it. </p>
<p> I have the skill to spray finish ( when I have the right equipment) since I grew up doing that but the process of FP really appeals to me. I don't have to rush, since I'm not being paid for my work anyway and I can get it started and think about other things while I work. I find quite soothing.</p>
<p>When it's all said and done, I love the "almost" bright shine I can get without buffing. Sometimes I buff it out but sometime I leave it there. It''s not a satin finish but it not a deep gloss either. Either way I think it's unique too. </p>
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<p>BTW I like to use carnauba wax on my FP finish because of it's hardness. I feel that it helps with the "less robust" nature of shellac. I have an ancient can of Mother's carnauba wax that doesn't have silicone in it but it's almost gone. I've had it for decades and only use it for thing that I want the hardness factor on. ( works for my saw table too.) I don't know if Mother's still make it that way or not but I'm going to need to find a replacement soon. Anyway, in my estimation, it's been a very good compliment for my FP finishes.</p>
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<p>BT-BTW, I did some experimenting with lacquer thinned enough to "FP" a finish. It didn't work like shellac, probably because lacquer thinner doesn't evaporate as quickly as alcohol but it wasn't too bad either. It WAS much harder to get a build without stripping at the same time. It definitely didn't like a lot of pressure on the pad or the existing finish would start to "roll up". I was never able to get a good even shine so, since it was on a cheap mandolin that was small enough to use it, I powered up my airbrush to spray a couple of "finish" coats to complete it.</p>
<p>I think it MIGHT work with patience and, perhaps a different, fasting drying solvent but I haven't returned to my experiment yet. I don't know of there is a lacquer out that that could be thinned with alcohol of if there is a similar solvent that would work in it's place. It's just one of a long list of things that are low priority. </p>
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<p></p> There's a type of "plasticize…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-28:2177249:Comment:1460852015-04-28T01:18:21.866ZRichard Baleshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RichardBales
<p>There's a type of "plasticizer" in your natural skin oil - it's what keeps your skin supple and leads to that softening of the lacquer where your arm rests on your favourite flat top. So better keep your skin out of the bathroom too. :-)</p>
<p>There's a type of "plasticizer" in your natural skin oil - it's what keeps your skin supple and leads to that softening of the lacquer where your arm rests on your favourite flat top. So better keep your skin out of the bathroom too. :-)</p> Howard, it's interesting that…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-27:2177249:Comment:1459562015-04-27T17:03:01.700ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>Howard, it's interesting that you mention these plasticizers. I was just talking about the project with one of my wife's friends, and she mentioned the plasticizers too, but for different reasons. According to some research she's done about chemicals in the home, these plasticizers continue to off-gass which isn't great for one's health, especially in confined spaces like bathrooms. For this reason, she has sworn off ever purchasing a PVC shower curtain again. </p>
<p>Thanks for your comment…</p>
<p>Howard, it's interesting that you mention these plasticizers. I was just talking about the project with one of my wife's friends, and she mentioned the plasticizers too, but for different reasons. According to some research she's done about chemicals in the home, these plasticizers continue to off-gass which isn't great for one's health, especially in confined spaces like bathrooms. For this reason, she has sworn off ever purchasing a PVC shower curtain again. </p>
<p>Thanks for your comment above. Good info!</p> I restored a 'basket case' Ba…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-27:2177249:Comment:1459532015-04-27T16:54:50.029ZJohn Cartwrighthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JohnCartwright
<p>I restored a 'basket case' Bay State back in 09 for a friend which was originally french polished, so once the back was repaired I used that method and shellac. It was my first FP job - aside from the practice work I did on scrap leading up to it - and it came out great. I loved the process, the fact that it's much better for health and planet and it's kinda fun too. Just never heard of anyone using it much, especially on an electric. I might give it a go on my next…</p>
<p>I restored a 'basket case' Bay State back in 09 for a friend which was originally french polished, so once the back was repaired I used that method and shellac. It was my first FP job - aside from the practice work I did on scrap leading up to it - and it came out great. I loved the process, the fact that it's much better for health and planet and it's kinda fun too. Just never heard of anyone using it much, especially on an electric. I might give it a go on my next frankincaster. </p>
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<p>My great uncle Eugene knocked over a glass of Jim Beam onto my grandma's french polished coffee table (she was less than thrilled) so she had the top refinished. The guy used a satin varnish or poly, and while he did a fine job executing the task, it is no where near as pretty as it used to be. Maybe it's me, but there is something unique about the way it reflects and refracts light ...or something. Maybe it's just the romance of it. Anyway, that's got nothing to do with the discussion, but hopefully an interesting anecdote, at least. :-)</p> the problem is not the vinyl…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-04-26:2177249:Comment:1459502015-04-26T18:38:58.474ZHoward Klepperhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/HowardKlepper
<p>the problem is not the vinyl or PVC. "Hard vinyl" such as Boltaron or the stuff Gibson used to use for archtop pickguards is OK. What you need to avoid is the plasticisers added to give vinyl flexibility. They migrate to the lacquer and ruin it.</p>
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<p>But shellac is a good barrier, and may protect the lacquer from migrating plasticisers. I wouldn't want to guarantee that, tho.</p>
<p>the problem is not the vinyl or PVC. "Hard vinyl" such as Boltaron or the stuff Gibson used to use for archtop pickguards is OK. What you need to avoid is the plasticisers added to give vinyl flexibility. They migrate to the lacquer and ruin it.</p>
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<p>But shellac is a good barrier, and may protect the lacquer from migrating plasticisers. I wouldn't want to guarantee that, tho.</p>