Solder Wire Type Requirements - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T06:54:13Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/solder-wire-type-requirements?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A150686&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThanks for the details on the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-16:2177249:Comment:1506862015-09-16T03:57:50.188ZPaul Verticchiohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Thanks for the details on the flux types, JR. </p>
<p>Thanks also for mentioning the substrate prep. It's vital to a successful joint.</p>
<p>Much appreciated input :)</p>
<p>P</p>
<p>Thanks for the details on the flux types, JR. </p>
<p>Thanks also for mentioning the substrate prep. It's vital to a successful joint.</p>
<p>Much appreciated input :)</p>
<p>P</p> Precisely David. High reliabi…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-15:2177249:Comment:1503792015-09-15T15:52:06.039ZJ R Emmetthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JREmmett
<p>Precisely David. High reliability (Military, Space applications) have prescribed 63/37 for quite a while as the Eutectic nature of the solder produces higher reliability joints as evidenced by extensive testing. You might think that Musical Gear is not exposed to harsh environments (relative to the Army) but sweat, liquids, heat, cold and transport really beats gear up. I used to think that an 18 year old Soldier was my acid test for durability but now I sincerely think that most musicians…</p>
<p>Precisely David. High reliability (Military, Space applications) have prescribed 63/37 for quite a while as the Eutectic nature of the solder produces higher reliability joints as evidenced by extensive testing. You might think that Musical Gear is not exposed to harsh environments (relative to the Army) but sweat, liquids, heat, cold and transport really beats gear up. I used to think that an 18 year old Soldier was my acid test for durability but now I sincerely think that most musicians put them to shame (and most musicians take better care of their gear).</p>
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<p>On flux type - amen on Rosin flux. I keep a needle tipped bottle of plain type R flux on my bench to help reflow joints - particularly on potentiometer cases. There are actually 3 types of rosin flux - Type R (plain rosin), Type RMA (Rosin, Mildly Activated - contains a little acid) and RA (Rosin, Activated - contains a little more acid). Try to stick to type R or RMA for the most part. The residual acid from RA can cause premature solder joint failures.</p>
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<p>With regard to lead free solder - it can be used and can produce acceptable solder joints, albeit at higher temperatures. Despite decades of soldering, I find it more difficult to work with and the solder joints always look cold when compared to the lead alloys. This makes quality control of your work more difficult. When we switched over in the Military Electronics world, it took a lot of testing and IMHO - is an example of a "good enough" solution. It is simply not as reliable as lead alloys and never will be but it does meet the lifetime requirements. </p>
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<p>With all type Rx fluxes - cleanup is simple. Cotton swabs and Isopropyl Alcohol. </p>
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<p>One last comment (slightly off topic) is that I find a fiberglass burnishing brush to be an indispensable tool. Light scrubbing on potentiometer cases and other nickel plated surfaces promotes good surface wetting and adhesion.</p> Honestly, I think in most cas…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-14:2177249:Comment:1503712015-09-14T05:09:49.158ZDavid Collinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidCollins
Honestly, I think in most cases the differences between 60/40 and 63/37 are negligible, so long as the connections aren't subject to vibration or disturbance in the cooling process. I lean toward 63/37 almost on academic principle, but in practice 60/40 works just fine. I don't think I've ever seen a failed joint where I said "boy, that would have worked if they used 73/37". :)
Honestly, I think in most cases the differences between 60/40 and 63/37 are negligible, so long as the connections aren't subject to vibration or disturbance in the cooling process. I lean toward 63/37 almost on academic principle, but in practice 60/40 works just fine. I don't think I've ever seen a failed joint where I said "boy, that would have worked if they used 73/37". :) Thanks for all the great info…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-14:2177249:Comment:1503682015-09-14T05:04:38.207ZPete Andreevhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PeteAndreev
Thanks for all the great info. I currently have two different irons that I like...a Weller WLC100 and a Solomon SR-965. The Weller seems to get dirty very quickly and needs a little flux often. I'm guessing I'm at the point where I don't know what a "really" good iron is.<br />
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Paul, PM sent.
Thanks for all the great info. I currently have two different irons that I like...a Weller WLC100 and a Solomon SR-965. The Weller seems to get dirty very quickly and needs a little flux often. I'm guessing I'm at the point where I don't know what a "really" good iron is.<br />
<br />
Paul, PM sent. I got a Hakko FX-888d last ye…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-14:2177249:Comment:1506132015-09-14T04:50:48.306ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>I got a <span>Hakko FX-888d last year and I love it. A lot of people want to start with a "wand" iron which is usually too low powered to do what they want, particularly when it comes to solding wire. An accurately calibrated, adjustable soldering station just makes the job easier. It not only makes the job easier it's also easier to learn how to do it with a good soldering station. </span></p>
<p><span>It's also important to take the time to learn how to do it right before you start on the…</span></p>
<p>I got a <span>Hakko FX-888d last year and I love it. A lot of people want to start with a "wand" iron which is usually too low powered to do what they want, particularly when it comes to solding wire. An accurately calibrated, adjustable soldering station just makes the job easier. It not only makes the job easier it's also easier to learn how to do it with a good soldering station. </span></p>
<p><span>It's also important to take the time to learn how to do it right before you start on the good stuff. As Rusty pointed out, there's a lot of good tutorials and advice on the Internet. But you really need to practice on something old and junky. Any old electronic gear can supply a board and wires to practice with and learning how to desolder is as important as learning to solder. </span></p>
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<p><span>BTW, I didn't know that 63/37 was so quick to change states. Naturally, it's completely possible that I'll miss the challenge of producing a perfect shiny, clean solder joint rather than the twisted, dull, cold joint that a few seconds of a semi-solid solder state can give you but I may have to give 63/37 a try. </span></p> Ugh, guess I didn't actually…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-14:2177249:Comment:1506122015-09-14T04:08:14.860ZDavid Collinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidCollins
Ugh, guess I didn't actually link to the review I mentioned.<br />
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<a href="http://youtu.be/0GdV7XBae74" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/0GdV7XBae74</a><br />
<br />
If you happen to be an electronics geek, this guy's videos are wonderful to watch.
Ugh, guess I didn't actually link to the review I mentioned.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://youtu.be/0GdV7XBae74" target="_blank">http://youtu.be/0GdV7XBae74</a><br />
<br />
If you happen to be an electronics geek, this guy's videos are wonderful to watch. Mine? Short tip but high watt…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-13:2177249:Comment:1503662015-09-13T23:47:35.221ZPaul Verticchiohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Mine? Short tip but high wattage & rapid recovery time ;)</p>
<p>You cracked me up, Rusty. THANKS, mate :)</p>
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<p>Mine? Short tip but high wattage & rapid recovery time ;)</p>
<p>You cracked me up, Rusty. THANKS, mate :)</p>
<p></p> Mines bigger, hotter; yeah,…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-13:2177249:Comment:1503632015-09-13T23:35:52.066ZRussell Vancehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellVance
<p>Mines bigger, hotter; yeah, know the drill!</p>
<p>Hows your iron hanging pardner,</p>
<p>Rusty.</p>
<p>Mines bigger, hotter; yeah, know the drill!</p>
<p>Hows your iron hanging pardner,</p>
<p>Rusty.</p> Iron envy alert :)tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-13:2177249:Comment:1506112015-09-13T23:24:32.695ZPaul Verticchiohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Iron envy alert :)</p>
<p>Iron envy alert :)</p> Here's a good review on one o…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2015-09-13:2177249:Comment:1504642015-09-13T22:47:22.775ZDavid Collinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/DavidCollins
Here's a good review on one of the fake stations (a 936 ripoff).<br/>
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We're probably going to get a Hakko 888 as well. It would be for Hesh's bench, so I don't have to share my JBC station. :)<br />
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And yes, I use a lot of solder wick for cleaning old joints. About the only time I pull out my sucker is for big blobs on tremolo spring claws, where it would take 3 feet of wick to clear it off.
Here's a good review on one of the fake stations (a 936 ripoff).<br/>
<br/>
We're probably going to get a Hakko 888 as well. It would be for Hesh's bench, so I don't have to share my JBC station. :)<br />
<br />
And yes, I use a lot of solder wick for cleaning old joints. About the only time I pull out my sucker is for big blobs on tremolo spring claws, where it would take 3 feet of wick to clear it off.