Some advice on glues for a large break? - FRETS.NET2024-03-28T08:51:21Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/some-advice-on-glues-for-a-large-break?feed=yes&xn_auth=noYou can make some blocks to d…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-29:2177249:Comment:1401052014-11-29T15:35:06.585ZMark Pollockhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarkPollock
You can make some blocks to drop in the pickup slots to help with alignment as well.<br />
Ooh, ooh! You could also screw on an alignment block at the bottom using the strap button hole.
You can make some blocks to drop in the pickup slots to help with alignment as well.<br />
Ooh, ooh! You could also screw on an alignment block at the bottom using the strap button hole. This would not be a difficult…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-28:2177249:Comment:1401912014-11-28T21:34:21.928Zjbbancrofthttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JamesBBancroft
<p>This would not be a difficult repair if you used hot hide glue. First do a dry clamp up without glue and see how that goes.</p>
<p>If that looks fine, remove clamps and make a thin mixture of hide glue, water thin but yet slippery between your fingers. Make sure the body is warmed well, apply glue and clamps. cleanup excess squeeze out. Let sit for 24 hours before removing clamps. Once clamps are removed cleanup any remaining glue squeeze out. Finally I'd seal the hairline crack with thin…</p>
<p>This would not be a difficult repair if you used hot hide glue. First do a dry clamp up without glue and see how that goes.</p>
<p>If that looks fine, remove clamps and make a thin mixture of hide glue, water thin but yet slippery between your fingers. Make sure the body is warmed well, apply glue and clamps. cleanup excess squeeze out. Let sit for 24 hours before removing clamps. Once clamps are removed cleanup any remaining glue squeeze out. Finally I'd seal the hairline crack with thin superglue.</p>
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<p>Jim</p> That is actually an interesti…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-26:2177249:Comment:1397602014-11-26T05:36:36.778ZMario Cardenashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarioGabinhoCardenasVega
<p>That is actually an interesting idea. I'll see how the project goes (money speaking) and see if is posible to do that. Thanks Andrew</p>
<p>That is actually an interesting idea. I'll see how the project goes (money speaking) and see if is posible to do that. Thanks Andrew</p> Is good to know that.
Thanks…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-26:2177249:Comment:1396592014-11-26T05:35:23.680ZMario Cardenashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarioGabinhoCardenasVega
<p>Is good to know that.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the tips Rusty!</p>
<p>Is good to know that.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the tips Rusty!</p> HI Guys,
I'm late to the conv…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-25:2177249:Comment:1396512014-11-25T12:55:36.404ZRussell Vancehttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RussellVance
<p>HI Guys,</p>
<p>I'm late to the conversation as usual, what Paul Verticchio said. Titebond is fine , the break surface area is the same as the original center-line glue surface and the contoured break means the surfaces will mate/lock together without slip or creep. you will still need to take care when clamping - use a heap of clamps, a straight edge to check the job is flat and make sure the top surfaces are clamped flat with a clamp and caul on each end to level the surfaces. Clamp up…</p>
<p>HI Guys,</p>
<p>I'm late to the conversation as usual, what Paul Verticchio said. Titebond is fine , the break surface area is the same as the original center-line glue surface and the contoured break means the surfaces will mate/lock together without slip or creep. you will still need to take care when clamping - use a heap of clamps, a straight edge to check the job is flat and make sure the top surfaces are clamped flat with a clamp and caul on each end to level the surfaces. Clamp up as tight as you wish (three sash type clamps with the middle one on the opposite side is sufficient) as there is little chance of a starved joint here. </p>
<p>Use the straight edge to check the surfaces are flat and not bowed in a particular direction (releasing clamps and tightening others to flex the top in the direction you wish to go)</p>
<p>Biscuits and tongue and groove sort of stuff is just not necessary here and would provide no useful increase in strength in this application anyway. </p>
<p>As the well know advertising catch phrase says: "just glue it"</p>
<p>Rusty.</p> I dont think you need anythin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-25:2177249:Comment:1397442014-11-25T10:08:27.950ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
I dont think you need anything to reinforce that joint. Also, theres not much risk of creep with a pva glue in this situation since the joint wont be under a constant load, because the bridge and strings span both sides of the break.<br />
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If you really want to reinforce it, id glue it up first as is, then rout the pickup cavities a little deeper, say 1/4 or 3/8", and glue in new wood there with the grain perpendicular to the break. That gives you lots of new surface area without making for a…
I dont think you need anything to reinforce that joint. Also, theres not much risk of creep with a pva glue in this situation since the joint wont be under a constant load, because the bridge and strings span both sides of the break.<br />
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If you really want to reinforce it, id glue it up first as is, then rout the pickup cavities a little deeper, say 1/4 or 3/8", and glue in new wood there with the grain perpendicular to the break. That gives you lots of new surface area without making for a complicated setup. Well, if i was to make any ki…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-25:2177249:Comment:1398432014-11-25T06:25:38.193ZMario Cardenashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarioGabinhoCardenasVega
<p>Well, if i was to make any kind of reinforcement i think i'd go with something like this. I don't know what you guys think? The only thing worries me with aliphatic glue is creeping. But i think if proper care is taken by the owner there'll be no problema. </p>
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<p>By the way, is there a jig or something i could make for the channel? in case i decide to go with it?…</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167749643?profile=original" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167749643?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721"></img></a></p>
<p>Well, if i was to make any kind of reinforcement i think i'd go with something like this. I don't know what you guys think? The only thing worries me with aliphatic glue is creeping. But i think if proper care is taken by the owner there'll be no problema. </p>
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<p>By the way, is there a jig or something i could make for the channel? in case i decide to go with it?</p>
<p><a href="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167749643?profile=original" target="_self"><img width="721" src="http://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/2167749643?profile=RESIZE_1024x1024" width="721" class="align-full"/></a></p> i would think you could use e…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-24:2177249:Comment:1397372014-11-24T21:30:55.604ZAlex Glasserhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/AlexGlasser
<p>i would think you could use epoxy as well. i have a jazz bass here with a similar problem and was going to use epoxy. i did one of these a year or two ago, an angry drunk threw the bass across the room, and i used Titebond, because i didnt think i could be fast enough with hide glue. it worked great. I'm going to use epoxy on the new one just to see if its needed, but i agree, titebond should be AOK. easy to use. you cant really use biscuits because the pieces need to be flat to use…</p>
<p>i would think you could use epoxy as well. i have a jazz bass here with a similar problem and was going to use epoxy. i did one of these a year or two ago, an angry drunk threw the bass across the room, and i used Titebond, because i didnt think i could be fast enough with hide glue. it worked great. I'm going to use epoxy on the new one just to see if its needed, but i agree, titebond should be AOK. easy to use. you cant really use biscuits because the pieces need to be flat to use the biscuit cutter, from my recollection.</p> I wouldn't use a plate joiner…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-24:2177249:Comment:1399452014-11-24T11:19:11.800ZMurray MacLeodhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MurrayMacLeod
<p>I wouldn't use a plate joiner in this situation, not that it would do any harm, but the real advantage of the joiner is that it prevents (or at least minimizes) any vertical movement in a normal edge to edge joint, In this case, the minute irregularities of the break will automatically realign, so there is no danger of any vertical movement. Leastways I surmise . . .</p>
<p>Wiping with acetone is an excellent idea. A wipe with alcohol couldn't do any harm either. </p>
<p>I wouldn't use a plate joiner in this situation, not that it would do any harm, but the real advantage of the joiner is that it prevents (or at least minimizes) any vertical movement in a normal edge to edge joint, In this case, the minute irregularities of the break will automatically realign, so there is no danger of any vertical movement. Leastways I surmise . . .</p>
<p>Wiping with acetone is an excellent idea. A wipe with alcohol couldn't do any harm either. </p> Thanks Andrew, i'll pay speci…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-11-24:2177249:Comment:1396262014-11-24T04:13:44.391ZMario Cardenashttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/MarioGabinhoCardenasVega
<p>Thanks Andrew, i'll pay special attention to it . I'll let you know how it turns out and how the clamps work. </p>
<p>Thanks Andrew, i'll pay special attention to it . I'll let you know how it turns out and how the clamps work. </p>