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Thanks to FF for the original idea of blasting steam away with jets of air during a neck reset!  I wrestled with trying to make a "from-scratch" version of his, but the nagging issue was already using an old StewMac neck-removal jig that's worked just fine for years... although, of course, it had no air.

So, after a few false starts, I've jerry-rigged an air-blaster that attaches (and can remain attached) to the StewMac jig ...and saved a few bucks in the process.  The plastic cable ties started out to be for temporary holding but they seem to work just fine on a permanent basis.

Nothing terribly complicated here, a capped-off PVC manifold with four 1/4" Loc-Line hoses & ends to aim at the usual suspect areas that tend to blush the finish when the steam escapes.

The end on the "driver's side" accepts a small vacuum cleaner hose end, with the vacuum cleaner set-up to blast air out instead of vacuuming-in. 

Haven't actually tried it out yet as I'm waiting for the next victim to hit the bench.  No doubt there'll be tweaks and adjustments, but what the heck... that's half the fun!

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BTW, Mike, how do you make your shop vac blow backwards? tom

----(hoo-boy, there's a hundred one-liners there, but I'll pass and take the high road :)---- 

Anyway, the vacuum I'm using is an inexpensive little benchtop/wallmount model from WalMart and the hose can attach at either of 2 ports, one on either side of the canister... one sucks, the other blows!  Really, that's the only way to say it...  and most shop vacs are set-up the same way, too.  

Here's what I'm using... it's not pricey at all and works well.  http://www.shopvac.com/wet-dry-vacs/vac-details.aspx?vacId=342&...  The hose-port shown on the front is duplicated on the back, and that's where the air is expelled out.

Mine, sucks, doesn't blow .. was I shortchanged?  ;-)

..thanks for the info..Tom

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