Tung Oil Finish Question - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T09:02:32Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/tung-oil-finish-question?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A130005&feed=yes&xn_auth=noWell I just take a piece of 6…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-05:2177249:Comment:1301842014-04-05T14:05:16.235ZWilliam F.Edenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
<p>Well I just take a piece of 6mill plastic about 10" square and fold it into a 3" pad and put the thin C.A on that a little at a time and wipe it on the neck. Then let it dry for a 1/2 an hour or so then put another coat on untill you build all the coats on that you want Then you just finish sand or steelwoll it just like you would do with Laquer. Be shure that you have lots of fresh air and a very good mask as this stuff is not good for your health....Bill..........</p>
<p>Well I just take a piece of 6mill plastic about 10" square and fold it into a 3" pad and put the thin C.A on that a little at a time and wipe it on the neck. Then let it dry for a 1/2 an hour or so then put another coat on untill you build all the coats on that you want Then you just finish sand or steelwoll it just like you would do with Laquer. Be shure that you have lots of fresh air and a very good mask as this stuff is not good for your health....Bill..........</p> I guess everything after the…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-05:2177249:Comment:1300392014-04-05T00:28:21.437ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
I guess everything after the wood prep lol.
I guess everything after the wood prep lol. Andrew what part do you want…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-05:2177249:Comment:1298742014-04-05T00:23:49.406ZWilliam F.Edenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
<p>Andrew what part do you want to know about???BILL...........</p>
<p>Andrew what part do you want to know about???BILL...........</p> How do you go about doing thi…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-04:2177249:Comment:1300352014-04-04T20:20:11.265ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
How do you go about doing this?
How do you go about doing this? Retrorod have you ever tryed…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-04:2177249:Comment:1300212014-04-04T15:18:49.054ZWilliam F.Edenhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/WilliamFEden
<p>Retrorod have you ever tryed puting four coats of thin C.A on a neck??? IT will give you a very fast working neck.I have done a few of them this way and the players seem to like it very much.And you get a good hard finish out of it as well .But it will not change the coulor of the wood.If you require some coulor you need to put your coulor on first but not on bare wood.Bill...........</p>
<p>Retrorod have you ever tryed puting four coats of thin C.A on a neck??? IT will give you a very fast working neck.I have done a few of them this way and the players seem to like it very much.And you get a good hard finish out of it as well .But it will not change the coulor of the wood.If you require some coulor you need to put your coulor on first but not on bare wood.Bill...........</p> I used Tru-Oil on a ebony fre…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-03:2177249:Comment:1299402014-04-03T13:39:08.501ZRobbie Collinshttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RobbieCollins
<p>I used Tru-Oil on a ebony fretboard I converted to fretless. Two coats wiped on and it dried glossy. I took it to satin with 0000 steel wool.<br/><br/>Also, I wiped 2-lb cut shellac onto a dyed mahogany body and finished with steel wool and it's beautiful. Not as durable as Tru-Oil but a nice finish.</p>
<p>I used Tru-Oil on a ebony fretboard I converted to fretless. Two coats wiped on and it dried glossy. I took it to satin with 0000 steel wool.<br/><br/>Also, I wiped 2-lb cut shellac onto a dyed mahogany body and finished with steel wool and it's beautiful. Not as durable as Tru-Oil but a nice finish.</p> Tru oil has polymerized tung…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-03:2177249:Comment:1300102014-04-03T12:20:57.614ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
Tru oil has polymerized tung oil and/or boiled linseed oil, as well as some varnish, as well as thinners to keep things to a workable consistency, so youre half correct I think (Ive done no formal research, this would be a very brief summation of what Ive read). To look at it in basic terms, you have pure or 'raw' drying oils (tung, linseed, and a few others), then you have polymerized drying oils, which are heat treated to encourage faster drying and better film building characteristis and…
Tru oil has polymerized tung oil and/or boiled linseed oil, as well as some varnish, as well as thinners to keep things to a workable consistency, so youre half correct I think (Ive done no formal research, this would be a very brief summation of what Ive read). To look at it in basic terms, you have pure or 'raw' drying oils (tung, linseed, and a few others), then you have polymerized drying oils, which are heat treated to encourage faster drying and better film building characteristis and then thinned back to a workable consistency, and then you have varnish oils (Tru Oil) where varnish resins are added to the polymerized oil to further augment the characteristics of the film that's created. Gotcha! When asking my origin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-03:2177249:Comment:1299382014-04-03T10:45:47.139ZRETRORODhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/RETROROD
<p>Gotcha! When asking my original question, I was equating pure tung oil as a "better version" of Tru Oil. Now through education I understand the difference. Tru Oil being a 'polymerized type' of tung oil...correct?</p>
<p>It is always a great thing when I have a "meeting of my mind"....;-)</p>
<p>Gotcha! When asking my original question, I was equating pure tung oil as a "better version" of Tru Oil. Now through education I understand the difference. Tru Oil being a 'polymerized type' of tung oil...correct?</p>
<p>It is always a great thing when I have a "meeting of my mind"....;-)</p> Im not sure pure tung oil wou…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-03:2177249:Comment:1299352014-04-03T00:58:33.642ZAndrewhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/Andrew715
Im not sure pure tung oil would make a great neck finish, at least in a reasonable amount of time. In any case using it alone to achieve a grain filled surface would take a long, long time, and a butload of work. You can buy a good brand of polymerized tung oil finish, which I think could be used to achieve a grain filled finish by wet sanding the wood with it as you apply coats. Ive not done this though. Also polymerized (heat treated) tung oil will build a film faster and to a gloss finish as…
Im not sure pure tung oil would make a great neck finish, at least in a reasonable amount of time. In any case using it alone to achieve a grain filled surface would take a long, long time, and a butload of work. You can buy a good brand of polymerized tung oil finish, which I think could be used to achieve a grain filled finish by wet sanding the wood with it as you apply coats. Ive not done this though. Also polymerized (heat treated) tung oil will build a film faster and to a gloss finish as opposed to satin. I think for a neck Id use polymerized tung oil over raw tung oil. Or tru oil. Hi Rod.
This may or may not h…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2014-04-03:2177249:Comment:1298572014-04-03T00:00:14.143ZPaul Verticchiohttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/PaulVerticchio
<p>Hi Rod.</p>
<p>This may or may not help you out with your decision, here's the "CAVEAT" from Warmoth's website:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>"Other Neck Finish Info:</em> <em>To Finish or Not to Finish?</em></p>
<p><em>All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing. We strongly recommend you apply a hard finish to all Maple,…</em></p>
<p>Hi Rod.</p>
<p>This may or may not help you out with your decision, here's the "CAVEAT" from Warmoth's website:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>"Other Neck Finish Info:</em> <em>To Finish or Not to Finish?</em></p>
<p><em>All our necks are dipped in an oil based penetrating sealer which is compatible with virtually all secondary finishes. This provides enhanced stability; however, it is not adequate protection for playing. We strongly recommend you apply a hard finish to all Maple, Mahogany, Walnut, Korina, and Koa necks. Oils do not validate our warranty requirements. We understand the attraction of raw or lightly oiled necks. They feel fast and are not sticky. Unfortunately, they are much more susceptible to moisture related warping and twisting. Our experience is that hard finished necks seldom warp. Raw or oiled necks don't fare as well. About 10% are rendered useless from the torture. The more acidic your perspiration, the higher the odds are against you.</em></p>
<p><em>If you must play a raw neck, that's cool; it's ok. A neck is just a tool. Just be aware of the risk.</em></p>
<p><em>For a valid warranty, a hard finish must be sufficiently thick to completely cover the wood. That means no wood is exposed and you are actually playing on the finish, not the wood. Now, it does not matter to us who applies the finish. Of course we would like to do the finish for you, but if you choose to do it yourself or have it done elsewhere the warranty is still valid."</em></p>
<p>Essentially... no hard finish; the warranty is void.</p>
<p>Have a good one :)</p>
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