Yamaha FG340 warped Neck - FRETS.NET2024-03-29T09:16:33Zhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/forum/topics/yamaha-fg340-warped-neck?commentId=2177249%3AComment%3A85113&feed=yes&xn_auth=noThanks a lot for the info Gra…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Comment:850722012-03-02T12:38:21.909ZJon Burtonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JonBurton
<p>Thanks a lot for the info Grahame; I think I'm ready to get started on it now!</p>
<p>Thanks a lot for the info Grahame; I think I'm ready to get started on it now!</p> Yup, the binding is glued to…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Comment:852072012-03-02T12:09:25.686ZGrahame Myershttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GrahameMyers
<p>Yup, the binding is glued to the fretboard <em>and</em> the neck, so remove it before you attempt to separate the glue joint between neck and 'board. Not really worth trying to save it anyway, binding material and the plastic rod you'll need for the side dots cost pennies. You'll almost certainly have to re fret after the fretboard is glued back on, as the frets hang over the binding. Not a bad idea anyway, then you can plane the board properly flat after you've glued it back on. After…</p>
<p>Yup, the binding is glued to the fretboard <em>and</em> the neck, so remove it before you attempt to separate the glue joint between neck and 'board. Not really worth trying to save it anyway, binding material and the plastic rod you'll need for the side dots cost pennies. You'll almost certainly have to re fret after the fretboard is glued back on, as the frets hang over the binding. Not a bad idea anyway, then you can plane the board properly flat after you've glued it back on. After you've glued the fretboard back on, do the binding first, then the side dots, and then get the fretboard as flat as you can adjusting new truss rod, and sand any humps off before re fretting, sand a bit of "drop off" in between the 14th fret and the sound hole, and then re fret. A new bone nut, and then you're good to go!</p> Thanks Grahame... It's lookin…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Comment:848632012-03-02T11:04:09.217ZJon Burtonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JonBurton
<p>Thanks Grahame... It's looking like it'll need a new truss rod then. Am I right in thinking the plastic binding is unlikely to come off intact, so I'll just have to cater for that and buy a replacement to glue on before I put the fretboard back?</p>
<p>Thanks Grahame... It's looking like it'll need a new truss rod then. Am I right in thinking the plastic binding is unlikely to come off intact, so I'll just have to cater for that and buy a replacement to glue on before I put the fretboard back?</p> I've never had much luck with…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Comment:850702012-03-02T10:54:53.171ZGrahame Myershttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/GrahameMyers
<p>I've never had much luck with the clothes iron method, I'd leave the frets in, and then remove it with a heat gun. I have one with adjustable temp., they're not expensive. ('Bout 20 bucks?) I'd set it at around 200°C and then work my way from the tongue to the nut. Once that's off, you can see what's to be done with the truss rod. In the photos it looks like the truss rod nut has been glued with epoxy: If that is indeed the case I wouldn't waste a lot of time trying to clean it up, I'd just…</p>
<p>I've never had much luck with the clothes iron method, I'd leave the frets in, and then remove it with a heat gun. I have one with adjustable temp., they're not expensive. ('Bout 20 bucks?) I'd set it at around 200°C and then work my way from the tongue to the nut. Once that's off, you can see what's to be done with the truss rod. In the photos it looks like the truss rod nut has been glued with epoxy: If that is indeed the case I wouldn't waste a lot of time trying to clean it up, I'd just replace it with a new one, you can get decent ones for under 10 bucks. Maybe pay a bit more for a double-acting one, a great help for problems in the future. With a working truss rod and the fretboard glued back on, you should be able to get the neck adjusted properly.</p> Thanks for the replies! Jeff…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-02:2177249:Comment:852052012-03-02T09:51:32.718ZJon Burtonhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JonBurton
<p>Thanks for the replies! Jeff - I tried removing the nut but it is stuck fast, it won't budge, even with heat from a soldering iron.</p>
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<p>Removing the fingerboard seems like a good option - would a clothes iron placed on the frets provide enough heat to soften the glue or would it be necessary to remove the frets first?</p>
<p>Thanks for the replies! Jeff - I tried removing the nut but it is stuck fast, it won't budge, even with heat from a soldering iron.</p>
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<p>Removing the fingerboard seems like a good option - would a clothes iron placed on the frets provide enough heat to soften the glue or would it be necessary to remove the frets first?</p> Perhaps see it you can get th…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-01:2177249:Comment:851202012-03-01T20:29:11.842ZJeff Highlandhttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/JeffHighland
<p>Perhaps see it you can get the truss rod nut off and buy a replacement, that may be all the rod needs.</p>
<p>Perhaps see it you can get the truss rod nut off and buy a replacement, that may be all the rod needs.</p> If it were mine, I think I wo…tag:fretsnet.ning.com,2012-03-01:2177249:Comment:851132012-03-01T17:24:03.311ZNed Knepphttps://fretsnet.ning.com/profile/NedKnepp
<p>If it were mine, I think I would want a working truss rod. You have already indicated that you need it to work so you can correct the relief. With that in mind, and the knowledge that the fingerboard already appears to have been removed, I think I would remove it again and fix the truss rod. You may be able to deal with the warp ( if there is one once the rod is repaired) by clamping the neck into a flat position and then gluing the fingerboard back on.</p>
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<p>If it were mine, I think I would want a working truss rod. You have already indicated that you need it to work so you can correct the relief. With that in mind, and the knowledge that the fingerboard already appears to have been removed, I think I would remove it again and fix the truss rod. You may be able to deal with the warp ( if there is one once the rod is repaired) by clamping the neck into a flat position and then gluing the fingerboard back on.</p>
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