Thanks for the inquiry re: my use of the Safe T Planer. I still haven't pulled the trigger yet, but am getting close to giving it the go then I'll let you know. Curious, do you fix the depth then feed, or do you draw the drill press down then feed?
noticed your notes re. Safe T Planer. I've been using one for 10 years. I always set the depth, then feed the wood. About 1/16 max removal at any one pass. I use it to thin the back of my pegheads. works well, I've also used it a few time to plane the angle of the neck shaft. Small shim under the nut end and then plane the back. it's pretty slick.
Hi Bob -Just Rob from Ontario, the old "nanccinut"!
Was trying to see if Icould find any U-tube links of you playing one of your classical guitars but never found one. Did see your web site!Ever thought of adding a clip of you playing one of your beauties Bob. Would love to hear you give it play. Maybe add a clip link on the Frets- Net site also as sure gang there would love to also
Hi Bob - With no package in todays mail with luck tomorrow being one week it will arrive then or if not Friday. Got a mechanic at work to cut me a 12 inch piece of hollow aluminum 11/2" wide stock. Saw a luthier using one 11 inches to sand frets . He seemed to be fighting sandpaper slipping a bit taking away his strict consentration from the job at hand. Made a modification to my model inserting a nice feel wooden handle which will also holds the sandpaper in place. The extra inch length will give me room to stick down both bottom edges with slippery shiny one side sticky tape to help prevent the leading edge from catching the frets. Also put a slight rounded bevel on both bottom ends. Heck Bob I should patten the sander.
Going to attack my old EL'DAGAS before touching my Guild to get the feel of the fret file again and my sanding technique with my new invention Bob.
Hi Bob -Saw you on line ! No luck with the mail yet but with luck early next week! On the other hand did real good getting a matching drill bit and proper 1/4" tap bit to drill the proper holes for my aluminum sand bar!Also found out where Ican get some super fine wet/dry sandpaper here in town so all should go well on my advanced model sanding bar. Also got the proper size bolts for the thread holes. -Rob
Yes Bob they probably think its a scaled down version of a A-K 47 !
Tapping the aluminum bar for the treads to hold down sand bar handle went perfect and have a piece of 320 wet/dry locked and taped in place. Already to give it a try on my old beater once my friends son returns it to me. With luck will get to give the new sander a practice tomorrow while Iawait customs to release the package containing the bomb should they be lurking into our conversations! Will let you know how that goes after a bit of practice. Is it best to sand frets away or towards sound hole Bob? Have a tempate made to protect my Guild but not yet for the practice guitar but have the thin cardboard on hand.
ps Hope this gets through as my Norton expired and installed free AVG but lost my log in and had to re-new againbut seem to be logged in again now.
Here's a fool question Bob . Already sent off a e-mail to admid but will ask anyway! After changing antivirus program now just my own on-line status lights up but not any other member now. How do I fix this glitch Bob in case they don't get back quick ? Thanks -Rob
Hi Bob -The file arrived today ,thanks so much. Just need to do some practise work both with my 12 inch aluminum sander bar of which I have350,400 and 900grit paper brought in for the job and then with the Garmin tool on my old EL'Dagas first! Nice to have a handle on the shaft now . Used a elastic to keep the other two bits together. Not many people on line the past few days.A few times only me and I thought the site wasn't coming up right on my computer.What kind of guitar are you working on these days. Send me a pick or two of your guitars by e-mail if you still can pull up my e-mail as my wife Gail and I would love to see them. We would also love to see the view around your place which must be breathtaking compared to around here.Maybe a tiny bit of your talent will rub off on me when I come to work on my good Guild using your old fret tool.Just joking there Bob!
keep in touch
Hey Bob, I know what you mean!! Point well taken. The guitar is being auctioned on ebay and comes with a case, Ive got some good pictures on the add so everyone can see what it looks like. It is a great deal, bids are low, tell your friends and maybe someone can take it to the next step, plays great, very nice neck, great tone!!
Just go on ebay and punch in Paco Marin Spanish Classical Flaminco, and you should see it. Thanks for your help Bob.
I would try to farm this out and get it super cleaned, think a high speed polishing will do a lot for this fine guitar. I have a kid that is in and out of the doctors, lots of family stuff, and not to mention the economy. But the guitar world from A to Z seems to be plugging along, lots of pickers, players, builders/craftsmen that are still hanging on.
Thanks Bob, You got a fan here!!
In answer to your question as to why I chose Overholtzer's bracing pattern.
I never had formal training. I got my start by reading and comparing the building techniques of the authors popular in the late eighties such as Compiano, Sloane, Teeter, and to a lesser extent perhaps Erlewine. Overholtzer's approach to building was similar to Compiano's (moldless) which is the method I've adopted. I was also seduced by the elegant of his cantilevered bracing and the reduction of fans as compared to Torres.
I refuse to shorten my life with the acetone soakings, but I did use his neck construction technique (basically laminated sticks).
I always thought Overholtzer's instruments were well thought of. I've never seen or played one. Have you?
Thanks for the offer of the Marin bridge specs. I would like to take you up on that.
My email is email@example.com. Besides the usual jpeg,tiffs etc. I can also import/export corel draw, adobe illustrator, and some CAD files. I design in Corel.
I have already started the rough carving of the bridges following the guidelines in Compiano and Natelson's book. But I am ever mindful of the need to "justify" any added mass in the bridge area, having erred in the past. ( Ask me someday about my "pyramids of Giza" parlor guitar bridge)
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