Hello all, First of all thanks so much for the helpfull responses to my headstock fracture issue! My second repair issue with this guitar is firming-up the bridge post bushings.

I have found that leaning bridge posts are common on the '54&'55 LPJ's. Mainly because of the shorter (1/2") bushings in an almost 1" hole and.....the close proximity of the treble post to the P-90 route.

 This guitar has the 'classic' post lean! The pressure from the treble post has 'compromised' or broke the wood between the hole and pickup route.

In doing so it has 'deformed' the holes somewhat I will try to depict....


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I have few woodworking skills and machinery,but a neighbor has a lot of skill,tools and a woodshop. I had him cut some 1/2" dowels of mahogany to fill in the post holes.(in the 3rd picture) He has the proper drill press and bits to re-drill the holes so that I can press in new .88 or 1" bushings of the proper 1/2" diameter.

My question is???? Is this a good plan.....And what type of glue would be best to use for gluieing in the dowels? My thinking is Hot Hide or Franklin Titebond.

Any other ideas or suggestions?


Oh yeah, this is the guitar I am restoring...



Nice Guitar! My initial thought is: What is happening in the pick-up cavity? Is the wall broken out?

I would not be dowelling and redrilling as a first step.

You need to stabilise the cracked wood in front of the posts first or the thin skin left after redrilling will just crack through again. Perhaps wick in thin epoxy resin

I would probably get the new bushing first and check it for fit, you may  just be able to glue in a few shims of veneer to the front edge of the hole.

I agree! That is the plan....repairing the cracked wood in front of the post.

Thin epoxy resin? any particular brand?

Thanks, Rod

Thanks! On the treble side, the wood has split into the pickup cavity(wall broken out). It shifts slightly with pressue but will not remove 'cleanly'. I definitely want to stabilixe this 'chunk' before re-installing an anchor. On the bass side post-hole the split wood is only the top 1/8" caused by the leaning anchor being pulled up by me.

I might add that the deceased owner tried to 'stabilize' the leaning posts with washers (creating the semi-circle indentations) in the wood toward the pickup.

At any rate, the wood has been compressed (from the 1/2" bushings)in the holes from years of lean. I do not feel that the existing holes are perpendicular enough for longer bushings alone to give upright posture for the posts.

That is the reason that I think that "doweling and re-drilling" is necessary!

Add This...



Well I don't know what you have available in your area but look for a laminating epoxy, perhaps west systems rather than the tubes you get in the store which are more paste than liquid.
Definitely not anything labeled 5 minute.
If you put a dowel into the existing irregular hole you wil definitely want something gap filling like epoxy to ensure all voids are filled.
I'd probably pull the pickup, use tape to seal up at the end of the split, seal the ground wire hole,wax around the front of the area and then partially fill the holes with epoxy then carefully push in the dowel, which should be an easy fit
This will force the epoxy into the voids
Or possibly just set the new longer inserts straight into the epoxied holes with the threads plugged

Thanks. I take it that West System epoxy would be the preferred stuff? My woodworker buddy has West System epoxy. I just don,t want to effect vintage value. Although I want the guitar solid and playable.

Wax around the front of what area? where the ground wire comes out?


Wax to the lacquered finish around the hole so that epoxy squeezout does not adhere to it and can be wiped away with a cloth damp with alcohol.
Like Paul I share the concern about the existing wood,that is why I would want the area impregnated with epoxy.
I would personally rather have epoxy in the hole than drilling and plugging a larger hole or other woodwork mods.
I reaaly like the original bridge/tailpice and would hate to see it replaced. It does seem to be mainly an issue for these models with the short insert.

Thanks Jeff, I got the picture....and agree with ya!

Jeff, I have decided to use the epoxy method and using the mahogany plugs in the existing holes. The holes would then be re-drilled to accept full 1" bushings A couple of questions- What type of 'wax' to use on the finish surrounding the holes?

What types of material would be least likely to stick to the epoxy? I am thinking Teflon,plexiglass,saran wrap?

We cut the mahogany plugs with the grain oriented as the body. Is this correct or would there be an advantage to drilling them in the other direction?

As far as the 'wiggly' piece of wood (treble side) that has split toward the p'up cavity.... I am thinking now of drilling a small 'shaft' into each crack from the bushing hole to hopefully allow the epoxy to push into the cracks better when inserting the 'plug'. I would 'dam' the cracks with plexiglass from inside the p'up cavity and brace the dam so that it will not push in when inserting the dowel. Hopefully that would keep the loose piece of wood flush and 'in place'

How does this plan sound and thanks for any clarity on the previous questions.



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